VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(NAILED IT)

[rickdb1boat]

Have you read http://www.boatpartstore.com/tips.asp ] This[/url] and did you change out the pulse limiter and install a new pulse hose when you did the rebuild?

 

[hookedonjc]

VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(NAILED IT)

Im trying to nail down a on going problem with my 1990 120 looper loss of power. More details in my other post . I have replaced a torn diaphragm in the VRO on the fuel side and still get the same results on the water. When I had it apart all other diaphragms looked fine. what is the best way to test? my problem is at WOT. I noticed when I had the air motor side still together and the fuel side off and I would pulse air on it the shaft would go in but not com back out all the way when I released the air. I could move it a tad with my finger and it would pop the rest of the way out.

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[hookedonjc]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

Lots of real good info thainks for the link. and I have not changed the pulse liniter its the original. I did pull it and inspect it. It looked OK but no real way to test that I could see. can you take a look at my other post (120 evinrude still acting up) More details on what I have found so far.


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[hookedonjc]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

Checked VRO according to the procedure in the link and it passes the test. Very good information there. I just wander if my exaust is restricted some how. as soon as I can get the gauge I need im going to do the running test on the VRO to make sure. Heres the kicker the engine ran perfect right after I had the pack and timerbase replaced and now its back. But all firing checks good now. Ive thoght and checked several things I just dont know. could it be the coils are just weak?

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[seahorse5]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

Im trying to nail down a on going problem with my 1990 120 looper loss of power. More details in my other post . I have replaced a torn diaphragm in the VRO on the fuel side and still get the same results on the water.

this link might give you some more information on the "VROj" :

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html

 

[ezeke]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

Did you try running with the tan wire disconnected at the powerpack?

 

[hookedonjc]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(1990 120 Looper)

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(1990 120 Looper)

tried disconnecting the tan wires and no change.
Check this out
Take off at WOT
Boat stands up on end
RPM @ 2700
Reach back and try squeezing the Bulb and it squeezes in slowly but no change in engine
Try hitting electric primer a few times and engine boggs a little
pulled all plugs and all look to have been firing good
Exaust is comming out the top port good at idle.
I would think if I had a air leak in fuel lines it would overide that when I squeezed the Bulb and picked up power when I hit the electric primer.
Taking into account all these conditions would you say FUEL or FIRE or AIR?(or PROP )
Are their any other test I can do on the timerbase and pack.




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[rickdb1boat]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

Take someone with you to drive the boat while you clip a timing light on each wire to check for spark under load...

 

[hookedonjc]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

OK I also just rechecked compression and is real good on all. Would it be the same if I backed it in and left it straped and hooked to the tailer and got it at WOT ?


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[rickdb1boat]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check

Yep...

 

[hookedonjc]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(Rickdb1boat and Dhadley))and(Rick

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(Rickdb1boat and Dhadley))and(Rick

Can any one give me a whole bag of things to check while Im at the lake checking the timing ? I sure wold like to try all I can while Im there.
Thanks

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[ezeke]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(need a bag of tricks)

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(need a bag of tricks)

There is only one tan wire connected directly to the power pack. It is the one that activates the S.L.O.W. function on your motor.

The black pulse limiter is no good. They were all changed out by service departments for the blue ones.

 

[hookedonjc]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(need a bag of tricks)

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(need a bag of tricks)

I been thinking again. I disconnected my VRO oil injection when I done the rebuild. Plugged the oil inlet and unplugged the wire. The wire I unpluged by chance could that be sending a no oil signal to the pack ? Reducing my RPM. Cancel that I found this post
(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)

You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:

1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.

2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.

3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.

That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.
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[ezeke]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(need a bag of tricks)

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(need a bag of tricks)

It would be difficult if you unplugged the harness from the VRO to the main harness That's the half round one with three or four wires. If you are pre-mixing your fuel, then that needs to be disconnected.

What usually triggers the S.L.O.W. function is the heat sensor being bad and closing the circuit [or you really are overheated].

If you disconnect the wire leading from the sensor directly into the power pack and you still have the problem, then you can forget that as being the cause.

I'm sure that you have verified that your tach is correct.-?

 

[hookedonjc]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(need a bag of tricks)

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(need a bag of tricks)

The other day The tan wires I disconnected was the two that go to the temps. I went out and took a look and sho enuff I didnt unhook the one going directly to the pack. While I was there and had her tore apart I checked the blocking diode and its good BUT check this out. I took my Fluke 83 and measured from engine block ground and disconnected the tan going to the port temp and got a reading of 7.93 Mega Ohms I disconnected the big red connector going to the controler and it went away Hooked it back up and it came back 7.93 Mega Ohms I know it anint much and not enuff to sound the horn but it is going to the pack. Humm could this be it ?

Thanks EZEKE

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[hookedonjc]

Re: VRO 2 Pump breakdown and function check(NAILED IT)

Nailed IT DANG DANG DANG IT Runs great Thanks for catching that on the Tan wires for me EZEKE. Heres the story. I get her to the water and start her up on the trailer Hooked up timing light to # 1 and was seeing # 3 flash ever so often same thing with #2 I was seeing # 4 flash ever so often. Then I figured it out The plug wires were touching each other # 1 and # 3 so it must have been inducing over. Seperated wires and cleared that problem up. Now I checked WOT timing should have been 18 deg BTDC but with stop all the way out as far as it would go Im reading about 16 deg BTDC Im still not sure about that. Any way I disconnect the Tan wire from the pack and take off She gets to 2700 and then 2800 and then 2900 and comes out of the hole I get her at WOT and got it all the way up to 5800 RPM . To double check I hook the tan wire back up and Bam 2700 and thats it want plane off. So I got me a short I got to find now on that tan wire going to the controler.
Thanks for all the help
Walker , OBJ, Ezeke, rickdb1boat,Alden135, Seahorse, Dhadley and Others
Just a run down of what all I found
1.Loss Fire Replaced Pack and timer Base timer base probaly OK to begin with.
2. Found recirculation hoses wrong from rebuild ( Fixed)
3. found bad Diaphragm VRO fuel pump (repaired)Probaly caused my meltdown when I had oil injection
4. Pulled and cleand Carbs and checked calibration.
5. Pulled tan wire off pack to eliminate S.L.O.W. Function and found it. Got a short some where on the tan.



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