Re: warm up lever on 150 johnson (88yr)
To answer the question concerning carb float drop and VRO replacement. I purchased this boat last Aug and fished in it till Nov. I knew when I bought it that I would be PM-ing the motor in the spring. I noticed last year that the idle was not to good and from my past experiences with Mercury motors the idle circuits had a tendency of gumming up if not treated w/ stabilizer. When I broke the carbs down last week, the carbs floats were not correct. I know that inverting the floats upside down, that the floats should be parallel w/ casing of carb and that is how I did that procedure but I also set float drop. In the Clymer Evinrude/Johnson manual pg.280 and 281 it also shows what the float drop should be. When you let the floats drop in their normal position, manual states to measure from bottom of float to bottom of carb casing and the measurement should be between 7/8" and 1"1/8. Two carbs were way off.<br /> By the way I learned of the floats to be paralleled to casing from this website (Awesome site)<br /> To answer the second part about the VRO.<br />The motor is 16 years old and basically everything I've read about this VRO pump is not very assurring. Being that I can premix my oil/gas I am going with the new VRO pump w/o oil injection. I know about plugging off oil side and even about buying diaphragm kit for fuel side of VRO but the housing of my pump has three cracks where screws go through housing and don't want to chance it. VRO is not leaking YET but looks very brittle if you know what I mean. Can buy new VRO pump for $140.<br /> I might have a misunderstanding about the throttle valves for the warm up lever. I thought as you gradually push lever up (while the motor is in neutral) that engine speed increases. Doesn't the warm up lever open the throttle valves to allow fuel to be sucked into the manifold via carburetors. I don't usually push lever all the way up because, like you said , it could jump into gear. The thing that is happening now (last November) is that even when I pushed the lever all the way up the engine speed never increased. In the past I would push it about half way up and push key in for the primer solenoid and she'd fire right up - let her fast idle for a little bit then push warm up lever down - put into gear and go fishing.<br /> If I am incorrect about the throttle valves opening up as you gradually push lever up, then please help my ignorance. How and what makes the engine speed increase while in the neutral position if the throttles don't open as you apply the warm up lever in the upward motion? <br /> Just from working on carb's on vehicles, the speed only increases when fuel is drawn into the manifold by air that is allowed in when throttles begin to open. I know the idle circuit works differently because idle circuits are under the throttle valves or they have pre-bored calibrated holes in the valves themselves to allow a little air to draw fuel out of the idle circuit.<br /> Where is the fuel drawn in and by what means (air, manual, solenoid) on Johnson motors if not by throttle valves. Pushing the key in only shoots fuel straight in manifold to get it started<br />and I thought that pushing lever up was for engine warm up (throttle valves opening as you see fit) push it up a little for a little valve opening - result low speed warm-up. Push half way up for medium warm-up ,etc,;etc'; All the time increasing engine reving for the warm-up.<br /> Please, if I'm ignorant on this I would greatly appreciate any help on this.
<br /><br />Don't forget to follow up the carb overhaul with a sync and link. This may solve the problem of the start up lever. If not, watch the casing guide at the end of the control cable move as you operate the cold start lever. Should move enough to slightly open the carb throttle plates. If not, you may have a problem in the control box.<br /><br />Hope I (we) covered everything...