Warning alarm on 1995 Four Winns Freedom 170 115 hp Evinrude

Boatbum11

Cadet
Joined
May 29, 2020
Messages
13
Under dash/helm warning alarm has constant ticking sound once the engine is turned on. It will temporarily stop, and voltage gauge drops slightly, when trim tab button on the control handle is pressed but then begins clicking again once the button is released. The alarm is NOT sounding the normal signals related to overheat or oil issues, just this constant ticking. Engine is not overheating and is getting oil from vro.
All fuel and oil lines are new. New battery, Inline water separator installed. Warning alarm was replaced but didn't resolve the issue. Hoping someone has figured out a similar problem and can advise a fix.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
Think I would disassemble the control handle, and inspect the wiring in there. Look for abrasions/shorted wires.
 

Boatbum11

Cadet
Joined
May 29, 2020
Messages
13
Haven't had the chance to look at the control handle yet but other testing done:
I checked the voltage with a multimeter at the battery and the charge rate varied between 14.8 and 15 volts which seemed high.
I replaced the old Marine Battery (2010) with a new AGM Battery due to its age and to also see if the voltage would drop to normal charging levels but it did not.

I checked the rectifier with the multimeter using procedures in the Evinrude manual with the following results:
Rectifier wire color: First Test / Reversed Poles
Yellow 79.3 / 79.3
Yellow Gray 17.2 / 17.4
Red/Yellow (to one lead) 79.2 / 79.3
Red/Yellow Gray (to one lead) 10.7 / 1.4

I also tested the Stator but didn’t record any initial readings from OHM meter and got inconclusive 0.L open circuit readings the second time I tested.

I also disconnectied the VRO low oil sensor from the VRO at the motor and the ticking sound did stop but I have no intention of running the motor with it disconnected due to ovious risk of not having a no oil alarm.

To restate issue:
Under dash/helm warning alarm has constant ticking sound once the engine is turned on. It will temporarily stop, and voltage gauge drops slightly, when the trim tab button on the control handle is pressed but then begins clicking again once the button is released. The alarm is NOT sounding the normal signals related to overheat or oil issues, just this constant ticking. Engine is not overheating and is getting oil from vro.
All fuel and oil lines are new. New battery, Inline water separator installed. Warning alarm was replaced but didn't resolve the issue. Hoping someone has figured out a similar problem and can advise a fix.
 

oldboat1

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 3, 2002
Messages
9,612
Offhand? Rectifier is fried, and should see if the T&T has hydraulic fluid in it.
 

jakedaawg

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 26, 2012
Messages
4,275
Does the tach work? Was warning horn replaced with OEM or other? Have you tested the warning system? Low oil, no oil, overheat tests? These are all simple to do and clearly outlined in manual.
 

Boatbum11

Cadet
Joined
May 29, 2020
Messages
13
Thanks fellas. I am thinking the rectifier might be the root cause but want to rule out all other issues before footin' the bill. Yes, the tach works. Would it not work if the rectifier was bad?
Yes, the alarm horn was replaced with OEM and since the problem persists, it leads me to believe that the original one was probably fine.
Yes, I've tested the warning system as outlined in the manual and the alarm sounded the various tones as designed. Self-test also works when the key switch is turned on.

Have read that the oil sensor on oil tank going bad could cause weird signals. Any way to test that?

Always a freshwater boat and always winterized. We ran it a whole summer season prior to this issue.

Some known previous owner repairs:
  • In 1998 new wiring harness for engine and T&T plus new small harness at T&T relays inside engine cover (because owners had connected battery cables wrong).
  • Carburetor repair kits
What's been done since we purchased in 2018:
  • New plugs, new plug wires, new fuel filter, new vented fuel cap.
  • New hose lines for fuel fill, fuel vent, and fuel
  • New hose lines for oil
  • New hoses on motor to VRO and fuel
  • New Seachoice boat horn
  • Installed water separator
  • New warning alarm
  • New Faria temp gauge and motor sender
  • New AGM battery
Speaking of the new battery, do I need to be brand specific on a replacement rectifier because of the AGM battery? Any compatibility issues to worry about?
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
739
AGM, maintenance free, and dry cell batteries are a big no-no with many of the older outboard charging system designs.

If you look in the CDI troubleshooting guide, it explicitly says these types of batteries have the strong possibly/probability of frying your charging system and voids any warranty.

My guess is for one to use AGM or these other newer type of 12 volt batteries is you need a standalone smart charging system unit that can safely charge a variety of batteries using the outboard's charging system.

I don't have a particular brand or model in mind, but it's very common to see similiar type setups on inboard and I/O boats with older charging systems.
 

Boatbum11

Cadet
Joined
May 29, 2020
Messages
13
Yes, read that after the recent battery purchase so going to exchange it for a Deep Cycle Marine. The problem existed prior to battery purchase. Tks for confirming!
 

havoc_squad

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 5, 2011
Messages
739
Yes, read that after the recent battery purchase so going to exchange it for a Deep Cycle Marine. Tks for confirming!

Make sure it is designed to do both starting and deep cycle. A deep cycle type battery alone is not very helpful as a starting battery.
 

Boatbum11

Cadet
Joined
May 29, 2020
Messages
13
So we replaced the rectifier and it did not solve the ticking of the warning alarm. Did try disconnecting the "low oil" tan wire at the bullet connector in the engine and it did stop ticking so is that an indication that the sensor in the oil tank is bad? Is there any way to test it? Any other suggestions?
 
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