I have a 2002 Volvo Penta 5.0 GL-B I/O that has run fine several times this season, including the day problems started. Boat is on the Texas coast, runs in saltwater and is thoroughly flushed every time the lower unit gets in the water. Was not anywhere near freezing temps last winter or any other. Went out fishing early last weekend and motor ran fine - started right up, good oil pressure and temp, ran well at idle, low rpm, and cruise, although perhaps a barely noticeable trace of roughness on the way in at cruise. Ran again during flush and no problems. Went to start again late in day and had ugly loud noises from what I now know was hydro lock, but at the time thought was a starter problem as after a couple of short tries the starter bendix would not engage and the starter just spun freely. Replaced the starter today and more noise/hydro lock. Removed spark plugs and water drained out of one plug on each cylinder bank. Cranked engine over to clear water and water came out of at least two cylinders on each bank. Pulled oil dipstick and level is at least two quarts above the normal level, but no water or milky mix visible on dipstick, just normal brown oil.
Based on reading a number of threads, primary suspect seems to be exhaust manifolds and risers and/or their gaskets. However, the risers and manifolds were replaced on the advice of my mechanic 3 years ago (37 months to be exact) although they were not leaking at the time of replacement. I have been even more fanatic about flushing since then to try and prevent or delay as long as possible corrosion problems. I believe, but am not sure that OEM risers, manifolds, and gaskets were used particularly as parts cost for those items was $1000. So three years to failure when the originals lasted six or seven years without failure seems a short life. Plus it seems very unlikely to me that both sides would develop serious leaks at exactly the same time as seems to have happened here. I read on one thread that intake manifolds are known to develop leaks below the thermostat, but I am not clear if such a leak would get into the top of the cylinders like this has.
I have oiled all cylinders to delay corrosion but have not removed manifolds or risers since my DIY experience is that with 20 bolts to remove, one will snap off at the same torque all the others come loose at, and turn a bad situation into a disaster. So I am looking for advise on the most probable cause and best next steps to take to confirm and correct the problem at minimum risk.
Many thanks for your thoughts and suggestions.
Based on reading a number of threads, primary suspect seems to be exhaust manifolds and risers and/or their gaskets. However, the risers and manifolds were replaced on the advice of my mechanic 3 years ago (37 months to be exact) although they were not leaking at the time of replacement. I have been even more fanatic about flushing since then to try and prevent or delay as long as possible corrosion problems. I believe, but am not sure that OEM risers, manifolds, and gaskets were used particularly as parts cost for those items was $1000. So three years to failure when the originals lasted six or seven years without failure seems a short life. Plus it seems very unlikely to me that both sides would develop serious leaks at exactly the same time as seems to have happened here. I read on one thread that intake manifolds are known to develop leaks below the thermostat, but I am not clear if such a leak would get into the top of the cylinders like this has.
I have oiled all cylinders to delay corrosion but have not removed manifolds or risers since my DIY experience is that with 20 bolts to remove, one will snap off at the same torque all the others come loose at, and turn a bad situation into a disaster. So I am looking for advise on the most probable cause and best next steps to take to confirm and correct the problem at minimum risk.
Many thanks for your thoughts and suggestions.