Water In Oil/Overheating Issue

[Striperr]

Hello wrench Gurus!
am a long time reader first time poster and I finally reached the point where I could use some of your incites. I currently own a 97 Four Winns Horizon bow rider with a Volvo Penta 4.3 GL with SX cobra outdrive. I currently have an issue where I am getting water in the oil if I run my boat on muffs and then let it sit over night. Please note that I can run it for 20 or so minutes on muffs and check the oil afterwards and it is not milky, this only appears to happen when the boat sits over night. I also noticed that if I run the engine dry for 15 seconds after pulling the muffs off I don't have the water issue. I also noticed at the same time that I have an overheating issue on the port side manifold/riser. After reading through countless posts in the archive it sounded like I needed to replace both manifolds/risers as the culprit would most likely be a bad gasket (causing water to leak into the cylinders and into the pan) and a clogging issue (which would account for the overheating). This past weekend I replaced both sides as well as the thermostat (and I cleaned out the housing) and raw water impellar. I then proceeded to run the boat again for about 20 minutes on muffs and I noticed the port side was still overheating (starboard side was almost cold to the touch, right side I could barely touch). So after doing some further research, I read Don's post about Diagnosing overheating issues so I hooked up a garden hose to the raw water hose that feeds the water pump and I noticed that there was a good amount of water leaking from where the hose connects to the plastic nipple by the gimble housing. I took the outdrive off, took the plastic nipple off the hose and popped the nipple out, It appears that there is no o-ring on the nipple itself however in the volvo diagram it does show an o-ring. I also noticed that there is a small hole in the nipple itself in a groove that looks like it should have an o-ring covering it (or something?). Is this where the o-ring goes, or does the o-ring just get sandwiched in between the square part of the nipple and the housing when I put the nut on? Here is the diagram:

Also Regarding the water in the oil, I've read on here that it could also be cracked block however if it was cracked wouldn't the water be forced into the cylinders while it is running and I would constantly have the milky oil issue? I am at an absolute loss here of how else water could possibly get in the oil. My next step (once I receive the O-Ring, I ordered it today) would be to do a compression test on all cylinders, but even after that I'm not quite sure what I should do next? I am certainly not a mechanic, I can do most maintenance on my own however I get very nervous when the topic of opening the engine comes up. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

[Bondo]

Diagnosing overheating issues so I hooked up a garden hose to the raw water hose that feeds the water pump and I noticed that there was a good amount of water leaking from where the hose connects to the plastic nipple by the gimble housing

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,.... That explains the overheat issue, as that's on the vacuum side of the raw water pump,.....

It'll draw bubbles when on-plane,.....

I don't do Volvos, so I can't help with how it's supposed to be,.....

Also Regarding the water in the oil, I've read on here that it could also be cracked block however if it was cracked wouldn't the water be forced into the cylinders while it is running and I would constantly have the milky oil issue?

How was it winterized,..??

Yes, it should be somewhat constant if it's a cracked block,....
'n no, it has nothin' to do with cracks in the combustion chambers,....
It's cracks from the water jacket to the oil galleys,...

 

[Striperr]

Thanks for the quick response Bondo!
I've owned the boat for the last 5 years and have always winterized it myself without issue, I've had the water in the oil problem since day one (I'm sure the previous owner just passed the problem on to me). This past winter though I had a local boat dealer do the winterizing and I noticed in the spring that they never actually drained the anti freeze from risers/manifolds so there was milky oil when I wen't to change it. In the past I've always just ran the motor for 15 seconds after I Pull it out of the water to avoid the issue however now that I am contemplating on selling it I would rather fix the issue at the source rather then pass it on to someone else as the previous owner did to me..... Also I did end up pulling off the intake manifold today just to check and see if it was cracked and it did not appear to be. I did notice however that the gasket wasn't in the best shape and everything was covered in rust!

Also as you can see from the picture below it looks like most of the milky oil was concentrated in the top left so I am wondering if maybe it was the gasket, it looked like it was in rough shape however I'm not 100% convinced that this is the cause of my issue. So what I ended up doing was filling the water passages (top passages and lower passages in the pic) up to the brim (and stuffing a bunch of paper towels below it) so my thought here is that if I check it tomorrow and the water level has dropped and I pull the oil drain plug tomorrow and water comes out it probably is going to be a cracked water jacket. If the water level stays the same and there's no water in the oil pan then most likely the gasket is the culprit. Does this sound logical?

Also as you can see there is quite a bit of rust here, I plan on cleaning it out with a wire brush and shopvac however I'm concerned with the parts that I can't see. At this point since the manifold is off and I am waiting on the gasket kits, should I do anything else?

(also note that I stuffed paper towels in the passages that lead to the crank shaft so nothing falls in)



So

 

[Striperr]

Also I have on other question regarding the gaskets for the manifold, I notice that they come in a pair and go around the passages to the left and right of the shaft in the center. However in the pic above there is also some sort of other rubber gasket directly above and below the shaft, what type of seal is this? I can't seem to find it for the life of me

 

[72fj40]

Though I not real familiar with 4.3s, I do know sbc's. If your gonna fill chambers with water, do not pour water into the larger holes. They go to the cyldrs. The smaller ones on the end go to the water jackets. If you ordered a intake gasket kit it should come with the rubber seals that go on the ends of the block, along with the gaskets for the ports. Put some rtv on the corners where they meet.

 

[kccoe]

Hello wrench Gurus!
am a long time reader first time poster and I finally reached the point where I could use some of your incites. I currently own a 97 Four Winns Horizon bow rider with a Volvo Penta 4.3 GL with SX cobra outdrive. I currently have an issue where I am getting water in the oil if I run my boat on muffs and then let it sit over night. Please note that I can run it for 20 or so minutes on muffs and check the oil afterwards and it is not milky, this only appears to happen when the boat sits over night. I also noticed that if I run the engine dry for 15 seconds after pulling the muffs off I don't have the water issue. I also noticed at the same time that I have an overheating issue on the port side manifold/riser. After reading through countless posts in the archive it sounded like I needed to replace both manifolds/risers as the culprit would most likely be a bad gasket (causing water to leak into the cylinders and into the pan) and a clogging issue (which would account for the overheating). This past weekend I replaced both sides as well as the thermostat (and I cleaned out the housing) and raw water impellar. I then proceeded to run the boat again for about 20 minutes on muffs and I noticed the port side was still overheating (starboard side was almost cold to the touch, right side I could barely touch). So after doing some further research, I read Don's post about Diagnosing overheating issues so I hooked up a garden hose to the raw water hose that feeds the water pump and I noticed that there was a good amount of water leaking from where the hose connects to the plastic nipple by the gimble housing. I took the outdrive off, took the plastic nipple off the hose and popped the nipple out, It appears that there is no o-ring on the nipple itself however in the volvo diagram it does show an o-ring. I also noticed that there is a small hole in the nipple itself in a groove that looks like it should have an o-ring covering it (or something?). Is this where the o-ring goes, or does the o-ring just get sandwiched in between the square part of the nipple and the housing when I put the nut on? Here is the diagram:

Also Regarding the water in the oil, I've read on here that it could also be cracked block however if it was cracked wouldn't the water be forced into the cylinders while it is running and I would constantly have the milky oil issue? I am at an absolute loss here of how else water could possibly get in the oil. My next step (once I receive the O-Ring, I ordered it today) would be to do a compression test on all cylinders, but even after that I'm not quite sure what I should do next? I am certainly not a mechanic, I can do most maintenance on my own however I get very nervous when the topic of opening the engine comes up. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!!

Install o ring to the groove nearest the plastic nipple shoulder. The o ring should not cover the hole in the second groove so water can drain from the outdrive and not get trap during the winter and I think the hole must be turn down toward the ground but not sure.

 

[Striperr]

Thanks for the info! So I just checked on the boat today and it appears that the water level stayed the same in the smaller passages(I didn't add any to the large ones). I removed the drain plug to be sure and a little milky oil came out however it appears that this might be just left over from when I initially drained it as the water level hadn't dropped. So I can breathe a little bit easier knowing that it does not look like the water jackets are cracked, this might just be a simple issue of a bad gasket. I ordered the gasket over night so I'll update the post after I install it, put new oil in, run it and leave it over night. Wish me luck!

 

[Striperr]

UPDATE, so I put it all back together again with a brand new gasket, started it up and instantly there was a knocking noise coming from the engine. I am wondering if I messed up the timing when putting the distributor back into the manifold, would incorrect timing cause this knocking? At this point I am at a loss of what to do.....