Water in oil...

Tyler1199

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So I did something very stupid. I purchased a boat without a water test. This was a nice condition 1999 crown line with a 5.0 thunderbolt ignition mercruiser and a alpha 1 gen 2 out drive. It sat all of 2015 and was winterized in 2014 at the end of the year. I picked it up a few days ago hooked it to muffs and it started right up and was fine. Went ahead and got it. Get home there's some oil in the bilge- pretty milky figured it was spilled when they winterized and changed oil. Start it and oil pours out the engine- start looking and a seal was hanging out of the oil filter and the oil filter was really loose.- but the oil is pretty damn milky . Drop a bit of oil from the pan and there's deff water in the oil. If it's sat and that engine wasn't sealed because of the filter is there ever a reason you get water in there beside cracked block/blown head gasket? I'm going to pull spark plugs today and look. Boat runs and sounds normal I think- I didn't see any other issues but I didn't let it run long once that oil started coming out. Don't beat me up too much I know I made a big mistake lol. Thanks in advance!
 
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flipbro

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change oil and filter then run it. Watch to see if oil leveal rises or it goes milky again.
 

alldodge

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Howdy

Sure sorry to hear what your dealing with but as you say it doesn't look good. With water in the oil there are only a few places it can come from, and the cheapest to fix is the intake manifold, but most often it is the block. Look on the sides of the block for signs of a crack. If none are seen, need to pressure test the motor
 

Tyler1199

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I figure out how to do stuff pretty easily- but never pressure tested a engine how is it done? What is needed and what am I looking for?
 

juicebronco

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Pressure testing is pretty easy you can get the gauge at most auto parts stores for like $20. I generally disconnect the wire from the coil to the distributor to ensure it won't start. Then you pull a plug, connect the gauge in the plug hoe, turn the motor over and see what it reads. The main thing you are looking for is even pressure across all cylinders. You tube has plenty of videos that you can watch and get a good understanding of it.
 

baja_rich

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AutoZone and Oreillys have compression testers for free. Just put a deposit down and when you return it you get your deposit back. Plus the kits usually have the most common adapters for the plug threads.
 

Tyler1199

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headed to autozone now. Thanks guys big help. I'll report back in a bit with pressures.
 

alldodge

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Sorry but no not compression testing, you need to pressure test the cooling system.

I don't know your serial number, water type of cooling system you have, so I'm going with the standard 7 point drain system.

Take the line going to the thermostat housing which comes from the seawater pump on the starboard side of the motor for a Bravo drive, or from the outdrive for an alpha drive. Next take the hoses off the bottom of the exhaust manifolds and plug them. Now pressurize the system from thermostat housing to 15 psi and listen to where the air is escaping.
 

Rick Stephens

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First thing is change the oil and the filter and run it a bit. Second is pressure test the cooling system as AllDodge stated. No need to compression test at this point.

A freeze cracked block doesn't usually effect how the engine sounds or runs, it just leaks water into places water ain't sposed to be..
 

Tyler1199

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Hey separate question- I have the oil dropped and I have a ez drain plug with the valve on it and all- and its 1/2"-20 which from what I read is be most common and what this engine should use. However this drain plug is a 1/2"-13 when I look
This ho I can't find any like it?
 

alldodge

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Hey separate question- I have the oil dropped and I have a ez drain plug with the valve on it and all- and its 1/2"-20 which from what I read is be most common and what this engine should use. However this drain plug is a 1/2"-13 when I look
This ho I can't find any like it?

Are you talking about the boat drain plug, not the motor right?
 

Tyler1199

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No I am talking about the oil drain plug lol- sorry for my first jumbled message- off a iPhone- everywhere said GM uses 1/2x20 oil plugs is this not correct?
 
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Tyler1199

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Okay so real quick- we dropped the water out of the block drains and it was antifreeze- we are plugging the houses with barbs and caps- question is how do you block the inlet? We're thinking of using a fernco cap and blocking it at the stat head and blowing air into one of the manifold lines
 

alldodge

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Any which way will work, its all about air pressure contained inside the block. Just no to high a pressure
 

Tyler1199

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Block held perfect at 15 PSI for 5 minutes- from what I read it would almost immediately start dropping- is this good enough now?
 

alldodge

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Sounds good to me, now just where did the water come from. Might have an exhaust manifold cracked, but water in the cylinders would have hydrolocked the motor. Just doesn't add up.

Now's time to change the oil and crank it up again
 

Tyler1199

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So we got it started- like i stated the last owner whoever did the oil change left the old oil filter seal on it- Thats what was stopping the oil filter from seating- which is why oil blew everwhere- is it possible that over almost 2 years condensing from weather change could have done it? especially with the oil filter open. We let it run for 10 mins or so on water sounded great nothing crazy oil levels good. I plan on running it a few times circulating the new oil and draining- Than putting it in and doing the same thing just to check the oil and make sure all is well.
 

flipbro

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like i said change oil and filter and run it. And yes a leaking riser/ elbow gasket will make a milkshake. Been there done that and my motor didnt hydrolock. I had the same problem on a new motor milky oil. Turned out to be riser gaskets..
 
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