Water pump job: Drop your drive or not ?

[Homerr]

I've read both sides of this story. The books say drop the whole drive, and some folks say it's a piece of cake leaving it on the gimbal and just take the bottom half off.<br /><br />Since my 2001 Alpha (gen 2) drive has no grease zerts, why do I need to take the whole thing off (other than to check alignment) ?<br /><br />The only problem I can foresee leaving the drive on, is clearance to get the lower unit off. <br />I don't think it would be a good idea to lift the drive in the up position and take the lower half off. Seems to me some parts might start rolling where they're not suppose to. <br /><br />Then there's getting it back on at that angle.<br /><br />For those of you that have tackled this job both professionally or the backyard Joe like myself...<br /><br />What do you do?<br /><br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />H.

 

[P.V.]

Re: Water pump job: Drop your drive or not ?

Removing the entire drive allows you to visually inspect for water entry into the bellows or oil entry also. Either one is bad news!!! Water will eat up the gimbal bearing and u-jionts (and possibly sink the ship, too!) and oil entry will eat up the upper gears!!!! Also, what about checking the alignment?? You can open a "Pandor's Box" of additional problems IF you do remove the complete OD, but that's why you do remove it, so as to not find yourself stranded out on the "open main" later on!!!

 

[Winger Ed.]

Re: Water pump job: Drop your drive or not ?

To change my water pump impeller, I just raise it up and drop off the lower unit.<br /><br />If the bellows have a big leak--- you'll find that out pretty quick. If they have a slow leak-- get back in the engine compartment and look for a dribble coming down inside the transom below where the shaft goes through. It will leak almost the same amount if it is at all-- if the engine is running or not. <br /><br /><br />If you use the boat alot or push it real hard, pull the whole thing to check the alignment, Gimbal Bearing, and grease the 'U' joints & shifter guts every year. But if you don't run it too much, its all probably OK and you can catch it every 2nd or 3rd year for the big alignment check and lube job. <br /><br />If the Gimbal bearing goes bad in between the times you pull the whole outdrive,,, you'll hear it growling as it spins. Even then, it'll give plenty of warning- sort of like the throwout bearing on a car's clutch, or even a front wheel bearing. Take it easy, and you can still use it for awhile without everything just flying apart at the first 'trouble sign' you hear.

 

[Homerr]

Re: Water pump job: Drop your drive or not ?

I don't run the boat hard at all. Mostly just a week-ender through the summer. I've had it out a few times in the 'big pond' while crabbing.<br /><br />I know those drives are bulky and heavy, thus I wanted others opinions before I commit.<br /><br />The bilge has always stayed bone dry every time I'm out, so I can assume the bellows are fine. I'm going to go over those the best I can from the outside if I don't decide to drop the whole drive.<br /><br /><br />Oh and btw:<br /><br />I found a good place to buy the water pump kit on-line. Great web site and easy to understand. Thanks for those who told me about it.<br /><br />I called the local screw-learship for kicks and giggles... They wanted 10% OVER the list price...almost to the penny.<br /><br />I normally get a 10% discount because I bought the boat from them... Go figure. I wouldn't save anything! <br /><br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />H.

 

[Don S]

Re: Water pump job: Drop your drive or not ?

If you are having an overheat problem, you can do it either way, but for just general preventive maintenance, pull the complete drive during winterization. This way you can check for water in the bellows, (you don't want water in the bellows all winter) check the alignment, lube the gimbal bearing and ujoints, and since you are changing the gear lube anyway for winteriztion pull the drive apart and replace the impeller.<br />The Gen II impellers are usually good for 3 to 4 years if not run dry. <br />And don't wait for 2 to 3 years to pull the drive, that's just asking for small problems to become large expensive ones.

 

[MH9371B]

Re: Water pump job: Drop your drive or not ?

What is the website you found the kit on?

 

[rabidfish]

Re: Water pump job: Drop your drive or not ?

You also need to grease the drive splines...

 

[Don S]

Re: Water pump job: Drop your drive or not ?

You also need to grease the drive splines...

It's also possible to grease the splines on the Gen II coupler from inside the boat. There are 2 grease zirks on the coupler itself.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Water pump job: Drop your drive or not ?

hello<br /> cause I am lazy I usually drain the drive, remove the lower unit, change the impeller kit then reassemble the drive then pull the entire unit and inspect the gimbal area, pay close attention to the shift shaft seal in the exhaust cavity of the gimbal housing. its easier for me to do it that way cause the drive is supported while I wrestle with the lower and usually someone else has a project on the lower unit stand . I also find there are less distractions if I am hidden outside and not in the shop area. no phone and no BS sessions .

 

[Don S]

Re: Water pump job: Drop your drive or not ?

I also find there are less distractions if I am hidden outside and not in the shop area. no phone and no BS sessions

I hear that, but my poor old (Underscore OLD) back likes the tool pictured below.<br />PS: That's my drive on it. Formerly a single prop 280 with mechanical lift. Now a DP.<br /><br />

 

[Homerr]

Re: Water pump job: Drop your drive or not ?

Handy little lift, but I doubt it would roll very well on my gravel driveway!<br /><br />Sure is nice to have the right tools for the job.<br /><br /> <br /><br />H.

 

[snowmon]

Re: Water pump job: Drop your drive or not ?

owned twin merc 320 efi's with alpha ss drives. same but with heavy duty gears and crescent lowers. same as rodbolt says, drained and removed lower only. easy to reinstall, just twist prop shaft with a wrench to line up splines and they'll mesh into place. i used a hydraulic jack with a home built setup to support drive and position but also did with my back (aching). always removed entire drive for winter and checked the rest of the deal. owned these for over 10 years and only had 1 bad gimbal but i'm a maintenance freak. did have to replace shift cables on a 1 to 2 year basis.