water pump replacement

[stl]

I just aquired a 1965 johnson 9.5 hp mq11c. I got it running long enough to tell that it is not spraying any water. I was going to replace the impellar anyway. On this model do you just take out the four bolts that hold the lower unit on and then diconnect the shift lever? Are there any common problems that I might run into that you guys could give me a heads up on. I have read alot of posts about replacing the whole water pump kit rather than just the impellar. It seems like most of the internet sites only sell the impellar and plate. Also what plugs would you guys recommend. It has j4j in it.

 

[bubbakat]

Re: water pump replacement

The book says use a j4c plug<br /><br />You have it about right on the pump change.<br />You can still get the whole pump repair kit. Go to any NAPA auto parts store and ask them to look it up.

 

[stl]

Re: water pump replacement

This is my first water pump change. I am a little gun shy. I am not real sharp on this stuff so any tips or even a little encouragement will be helpful. Thanks,

 

[djzyla1980]

Re: water pump replacement

Like riding a bike... the more you do it the better you get... and when you replace it 2 years from now.. you'll hopefully remember those little things that caught you up this time. It's one of the easiest things to replace. use some dishoap to get it in. When you run it the dishsoap won't harm anything and will come right out. If the wife asks why your taking the dish soap outside.. tell her your gunna wash dishes with the ol' pisser. Works every time

 

[stl]

Re: water pump replacement

The wife knows not to ask too many questions when I am trying to figure stuff like this out. I actually wish she would come out and help but she thinks her fingernails will get dirty just by keeping me company. Dish soap, huh. I guess thats to squeeze the old impellar into place. It must be a pretty tight fit?

 

[bubbakat]

Re: water pump replacement

Here this might help you some.<br /><br /> impeller replacement

 

[stl]

Re: water pump replacement

I will be able to pick up my water pump kit tommorrow. This evening I dropped the lower unit and removed the impellar. It was a piece of cake. To my surprise the impellar was in pretty good shape, no cracks or nothing. When I first got the motor I started it and saw no water spray. The motor would only stay running for about 10 second. ( carb rebuild is next on the list). I know this impellar is old but it should be pumping some water. Is 10 seconds not long enough to see the spray? It was long enough to get the cylinder head pretty hot to touch. Could there be some other problem? Maybe thermostat? Iam not even sure where this is located. Please advise. thanks

 

[stl]

Re: water pump replacement

Gotta go straight to the parts store from work tommorrow. They close at 5:30. I was just trying to find out if I should try to get a new thermostat while I am there, or maybe it is nothing. please help

 

[stl]

Re: water pump replacement

Got the new water pump in and it is spraying water, but it is still pretty hot. I can only leave my hand on it for three maybe four seconds. Is this ok or is something else wrong?

 

[Solittle]

Re: water pump replacement

OK

 

[bubbakat]

Re: water pump replacement

My 9.5 is the same way and I replaced the stats along with complete water pump.

 

[stl]

Re: water pump replacement

Thanks for the help guys. I may need you on this carb rebuild. It looks a little more complicated than my 5.5 but maybe not too bad.

 

[stl]

Re: water pump replacement

Thanks for the help guys. I may need you on this carb rebuild. It looks a little more complicated than my 5.5 but maybe not too bad.

 

[eknox81]

Re: water pump replacement

I just started to replace my water pump impeller on a 6hp -1972 (6RL-72D) and snapped off two of the bolt heads and two came out fine. Tried to separate the lower unit but it won't come apart. When I pull down on it the shifting lever seems to move from forward to reverse. Is there some linkage that needs to be disconnected?

 

[SeaKing15hp]

Re: water pump replacement

I had the same problem when I was changing the gear cases on my 18. I drilled the bolts out and got them out with an easy out, but you have to be very careful. If there is any external bolts sticking out from the leg, try a dremel and grind out a slit to try to use a screwdriver to remove them. <br /><br />As far as the linkage, there is a plate that is held on by 2 screws about half way up the leg. Under that plate, there is a coupler for the shift linkage. You will want to loosen the lower of the two (I dont think it matters which one, but this is just how I do it). If the shift linkage gets held up in coupler, I have always just shifted it to give me a gap between the gearcase and leg, and put something in the gap. Then, I shifted the shift lever, and it poped loose. Now everything should just slide out. <br /><br />Good Luck!<br />-Jacob

 

[eknox81]

Re: water pump replacement

The 1972 6hp Model that I have does not have the plate on the side of the shaft to expose the linkage bolts.(I think Johnson forgot it on this motor.) I checked under & around the engine block and the shifting lever does not enter the engine housing or case area. Shifting lever is below the engine cover. There is a grease lug at the end of the shift lever but has no visible nut or bolt to remove to get lever off. I believe the outer case of the shaft must come off to expose the linkage bolts but not sure. Does anyone have any ideas?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: water pump replacement

Welcome to Iboats, eknox81!<br />Two thoughts occur to me. First is it would be best if you would start your own, new topic rather than re-using an old one. It's just the way we like to do it around here.<br /><br />Second, you would find this little job a whole lot easier if you got a service manual to work from. Iboats sells aftermarket ones, but you can get really good factory ones from kencook.com, marineengine.com, maxrules.com, theoutboardwizard.bizhosting.com. Sometimes they turn up on ebay cheap too. Use the following ebay search terms:<br />(9.5, 9.5hp) (evinrude, johnson) manual<br />But if you don't want to invest in a manual right now, you can often borrow one from the local library. Check the reference section.<br /><br />Ok, enough bustin' your chops! You asked a specific question and here's your answer:<br />The shift linkage on the 9.5hp engines is inside the midsection, and is revealed when you unbolt the lower unit. The lower unit ought to drop about 1/2" (you will have to shift it into reverse to get it to drop this far) and if you look in the gap there you should see a bolt running through a brass connector. Completely remove this bolt to disconnect the shift linkage.<br />If the lower unit is only dropping 1/16" or so, then the driveshaft is frozen to the crankshaft. Drive wooden wedges between the lower unit and the mid-section to get it to break free. Don't worry about forcing it, if the crankshaft won't let go, it'll just break through the (relatively inexpensive) water pump housing.<br /><br />Here in salt water, broken bolts are really common. To prevent them, heat the area the bolt threads into with a torch before attempting to remove them. If you've got something left to grip of the bolt (ie, with vice-grips) this trick usually works very well. If they're broken off flush, proceed to drill out and re-tap. Post if you need tips on that. Do not attempt to use any sort of 'ez-out' or you'll end up in a much worse place.<br /><br />Before reassembling, coat all your bolts in sealant or grease, and grease the splines at the top of the driveshaft. That will keep the splines happy and make the bolts come out easier next time.<br /><br />Finally, BRP has put the parts catalogs back to '68 on line:<br /> http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/Accessories/Engine.Diagrams.htm <br />The connector you're removing the bolt from is #52 in the gearcase section.<br /><br />Good luck!