Re: Water Pump Replacement
The best is to get a Clymer repair manual for the step by step.<br />Many little hints and do's & don'ts to help you.<br /><br />The brief overview:<br /><br />Tilt the motor up 3/4 of the way.<br />For safety, trip the safety lanyard and disconnect the battery.<br />Put shifter into forward.<br />Take a permanent marker and mark the current position of the couple and jam nut on the shift shaft.<br />Loosen and disconnect the coupler.<br />Remove the trim tab.<br />Remove the bolt up in the trim tab pocket.<br />Remove the other 4 bolts holding the lower unit on.<br />Remove the lower unit.<br />Remove the waterpump housing cover from the driveshaft.<br />Inspect for pitting and wear.<br />Replace the impeller, making sure the key is in place.<br />Soaping the impeller and turning the flywheel clockwise as you replace the cover.<br />Screw cover down.<br />install the lower unit, make sure the water tube is connected.<br />May need to turn the flywheel to get the driveshaft to sync up.<br />Bolt her up.<br />Put a little rtv on the bolts to hold them in place.<br />Connect the shift shaft coupler.<br />Adjust the coupler so that you can get into F-N-R.<br /><br />This is from memory, so I may have missed something.<br /><br />Some guys will drain the lower unit and remove the prop before starting. It makes handling the lower unit a bit easier.<br /><br />I have a 1995 70hp, and it is a pain in the butt to get that shift coupler adjusted, so be sure you mark it with a marker.<br /><br />The Clymer manual has a separate section for:<br />removing the prop,<br />removing the lower unit,<br />replacing the impeller,<br />installing the lower unit,<br />adjusting the coupler/linkage.<br /><br />If the switchbox on your motor has a bunch of connections on the front, it is a 1991 or 1992.<br /><br />If the switchbox has 10 wires sticking out of it, it is a 1993-94-95.
