What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

[enginesilo]

I am new to inboard/outboards having only owned outboards, and jet ski 2 stoke's. I like to maintain my own boats and jet ski's, and wanted to see if you all can share some things to check when shopping for a boat with an inboard/outboard mercruiser?

I've been shopping a few different boats and the right one hasn't passed me by yet. The one I am checking now is a 2005 and has the 3.0L Mercruiser with under 25 hours on it in fresh water.

What are some things to check on the 3.0L?

ENGINE RELATED:
1.) What should the compression read? 150 per cylinder
2.) Check for leaky gaskets and seals
3.) Check for excessive rusting or corrosion
4.) Check engine Oil to see if clean before and after running engine (even though this could be thrown off with a fresh change)
5.) Check the oil pressure guage to see if it builds pressure. Should this be between 30 and 60 psi?

DRIVE RELATED:
6.) Inspect Bellows for cracks and breaks
7.) Move the LU back and forth, and side to side for excessive play
8.) How do you check the Lower Unit oil? Is there a top and bottom plug like on an Outboard? Or is there a dip stick on the top plug, or from inside the engine compartment? When I was shopping Outboards I was told to remove the lower screw to look for metal and water/oil mix. Do you do the same on an Inboard/Outboard LU?

9.) Are there any tricks or scenario's of shifting the boat from neutral, into drive, and into reverse that I should be following to see if it is functioning properly?

Since it has under 25 hours on it, it may need the 20 hour break in service. Exactly what is done at this 20 hour service? Oil and filter changes, and gera lube? Anything else extremely costly that might not be done that i'll have to do if this 20 hour service hasn't been performed yet since the boat has in the low 20 hours?

I might not be able to water test this boat. Since it has under 25 hours on it, I may do all of these checks on my own, but since I can't water test I may have it professionally surveyed. Opinions on not being able to water test?

What else should I be checking for? Help me build a list of things to check. Any tips appreciated to help me buy a good boat and reliable engine.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

1-Compression should be even or close.5-10 # difference is OK
2-3-4- Yes
5 Oil pressure guages can all read different.As long as it registers smoothly and increases with RPM
6-7 Yes
8 The drain plug is like an outboard.Check for clean oil and metal shavings.
9 has to be in the water to test shifting correctly.
20 hr is oil change and drive oil change. We used to do plug replacement and general check.
Remember with a 3.0 it aint gonna be a race boat or pull 4 skiers. It will however last and run a long time.Very good outfit.
Just look it over real good. Good luck,Jerry

 

[enginesilo]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

9 has to be in the water to test shifting correctly.

Thanks for the tips so far Jerry! So should I not be shifting it at all into gear if the boat is on the hose out of the water? Also, what should the engine idle at roughly? Around 1000 rpm's out of water?

Anything else I missed?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

lower the lower unit then you can shift. but it is not really going to show any problem, except a cable being bad. i really hate not being able to test drive. what is stopping it? Jerry did good on the other answers, i really emphasis, the test drive before buying. you may not be happy with the 3.0 performance. i had a 4.3L in that size boat, which was great. adding smart tabs, to this boat will help it get on plane easier.

 

[enginesilo]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

Thanks Tashadaddy,
The reasoning is because the boat is not registered for the year, or in the state and the guy is hesitant to take the chance. The truth about the 3.0 vs. 4.3 is that right now I can't really afford to buy a more expensive boat and all the boats with the 4.3's are either older (early to mid 1990's at best), or just plain expensive and out of my league right now. I figured it would be smarter to get a smaller boat with the 3.0, versus an older boat that is a little bit bigger with the 4.3.

 

[sea wolf]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

Thanks Tashadaddy,
The reasoning is because the boat is not registered for the year, or in the state and the guy is hesitant to take the chance. The truth about the 3.0 vs. 4.3 is that right now I can't really afford to buy a more expensive boat and all the boats with the 4.3's are either older (early to mid 1990's at best), or just plain expensive and out of my league right now. I figured it would be smarter to get a smaller boat with the 3.0, versus an older boat that is a little bit bigger with the 4.3.

If the guy really wants to sell it, he'd spring for the registration fee so you can test run it. In my opinion anyone that buys a boat without a test run is just asking for it. Boating is an expensive pastime with a good running boat. Buy a problem boat, & repair costs can skyrocket. But, it's your call.

 

[JustJason]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

you can always bargain that if you buy the boat you'll eat the registration fee.... if you don't then it's on him... that's fairly fair

 

[enginesilo]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

Thanks for the opinions so far guys. Tough call but I'll definitely push to try to get it into the water to water test.

Any other things in my list you suggest checking while out of the water? Debating if I should have it professionally surveyed, or if I could go through the list above and do it all the same. The engine is so clean you could eat off of it, and has under 25 hours so it is a baby for sure. I would just have to have a lurking problem but I'm sure the current owner would have fixed whatever it was while it was under the original 3 year warranty if so. He hardly made it past the break in point.

 

[chiefalen]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

this boat kept in the water or in a garage or what over the winter?who winterized it,a marina or the owner.who summerized it?if the marina did both does a gurantee come with both services?you will find metal shavings in the outdrive oil if it hasn't been changed sinse new.fresh water is a big plus.unless the boat is under a grand i would not buy it under any circumstances without a thourgh water test.just to many things wont show up unless under load and around 3500-4600 rpm.

 

[45Auto]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

I would take a chance on a ticket for expired registration before buying a boat without a sea trial. Since it is low hours though, you'll PROBABLY get away with it if you don't. Biggest thing that would probably show up would be bad gimbal bearing and/or u-joints from a leaking bellows. Most of the time you won't hear them unless under a load in the water. It's very hard to really check a bellows for leaks - my experience has been that many times the leak is from the seal rather than a break or crack. And even an obvious crack or break is usually hard to find with all the outdrive crapola in the way. You can always pull the drive and take a look if there is NO way to get it in the water. Takes 6 bolts and about 5 minutes each way to pull and install it. The gasket/o-ring kit from Sierra to reinstall it is about $4.

 

[sea wolf]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

A surveyor will expect to be able to take it on a test run.

 

[enginesilo]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

So it sounds like just about EVERYONE is saying the water test is a must. All the mechanic/surveyor's I've spoke to are not looking to water test, instead they just want to inspect everything. I found a guy up that way who is going to inspect the engine and all for me. He said that it would be nice to water test, but since the boat is so new and garaged that he would do all of the leak down tests and inspect everything, but that it will probably be ok if I didn't water test, but that it was my preference. Now the question is how to get the guy to let me water test. Maybe i'll take your suggestions and pay for the registration which isn't much if I end up buying. No temporary registration passes allowed and everyone dreads the DMV so i'll have to see what he is willing to do.

Is there any way to visually inspect the gimbal bearing and/or u-joints and bellows for problems when surveyed? From the sound of it this boat is basically in brand new condition. Was winterized the past 2 winters since the owner bought it, and this boat has been stored in a garage and trailed its entire short life.

 

[Robj]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

My biggest concern on a boat that new is was it winterized properly? If you get a mechanic to check it out and everything turns out OK then I probably would be willing to skip the sea trial. Since you can't take it out on a trial, negotiate a better deal with the seller because you are taking a risk, albeit minimal by not taking it out on the water. The question is are you willing to take that risk?

Have a great day,

Rob.

 

[enginesilo]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

Hi Rob,
The guy has the receipts for the winterization services from a local marina in his area. Seems like this boat is squeaky clean and new so I might take the chance.....guess we'll see when I begin negotiating.

 

[enginesilo]

Re: What to check when buying a 3.0L I/O??Low Hours

Saw the boat today and it is IMMACULATE! Looks literally brand new!
Having it surveyed and am going to be water testing it too. Turns out the registration expires next year. As long as all checks out i'll be posting pictures of this beauty soon!