What would you pay?

jeff_smith_0423

Chief Petty Officer
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Dec 5, 2007
Messages
492
I'm considering buying an overhauled l/u for my 86 Merc 90 Inline 6. My current gearcase has been resealed at considerable cost and still leaks. I was even told that it held 15 psi overnight - but three hours in the water and I had a milkshake.

I'm seeing some on Ebay but they're all over the map, from $200 starting bids to $649 buy-it-nows. If i make this purchase, the motor will definitely be transplanted onto another hull. If don't, I'll probably sell the rig.
 

BF

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Apr 8, 2003
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1,489
Re: What would you pay?

what did the shop that did the reseal have to say? Tough luck? My first inclination would be to push them to do what I'd already paid them to do. If there's been too much time go by or some other thing that makes them unwilling to make it right, and if aside from the leak, the LU is in good working condition, my solution would be to test it myself and then reseal the lower unit (myself) and then re-test it. I've done it with my V6 LU twice (both times after I broke the driveshaft). I also thought about buying another complete LU, but decided to just buy the parts I needed and fix my own. Was cheaper, and at least I know what I've got.

My worry about buying a used LU off ebay is that it might also leak or have other issues. Of course you could get lucky. If shop won't make it right, maybe they'll at least refund your money, and you can put that towards another LU (?).
 

jeff_smith_0423

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Dec 5, 2007
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492
Re: What would you pay?

The shop who did it is "willing to take another crack at it" - I'm assuming for the cost of parts. If i bought a replacement, I'd tear down and rebuild my current l/u as a project. It would certainly be my largest and most mechanically intensive project to date. Carbs and ignition make sense - water pumps make sense. I've looked at the service manual and although i see it on paper, i can't visualize it in my head.
 
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BF

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Apr 8, 2003
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1,489
Re: What would you pay?

Yup, I admit I never really understood how the LU works until I took one apart. There was some bodging that had to be done to make up the tools needed to get it apart. The first time I took it apart, it was a project that I plugged away for a few weeks worth of evenings and skinned knuckles. The second time, I found the tools I had put together a couple years earlier, and had it apart and back together within about 2 1/2 hours.

So, yes, I'd encourage you to tackle your old one if you got a replacement. When I was watching ebay for one, there were LOTS where the description was just plain wrong. I knew what I needed, (early '80's V6, with 20" driveshaft with preload pin on the top), but many LU's listed were called V6 LU's when they actually were off I6's. Or the year was listed as what I was looking for, but the driveshaft was different (was actually from a later model). Often the seller didn't know the shaft length (some I could tell were 25" ones from the picts)...

Maybe it'd be easier to know it's the right one with an I6 (?). Anyway, yes if you could find a good one for a few hundred bucks, I'd think you did very well.

good luck
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,108
Re: What would you pay?

Jeff, Since your LU has problems other than leaking, I would buy the replacement. Figure on about $500, and remember that your motor (Inline six right?) can use LU from 1970 thru the late eighties, or more.

BTW - If the bearings were good, I would have encouraged you to find out the source of the leak. The waterpump base and driveshaft seals leak often and are real easy to replace. The shift shaft seal is not too hard to replace. The balance of the seals (bearing carrier and propshaft) are much more difficult.
 

sschefer

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Nov 13, 2008
Messages
4,530
Re: What would you pay?

O.K. This one I've seen before. I had a 25hp Johnson pull this trick on me.

It's highly probable that you have a hairline crack in your lower units casing. This crack doesn't open up enough to even leak air until you put the stress of pushing a boat on it.

I'd have your shop guys take it to good welding shop that can test welds. If they can test a weld (eddy current testing/non-ferrous metals) they can test your casing. If there are no cracks then I'd find someone else to rebuild my lower unit for me and get a full refund on the labor from the first shop. You're probably stuck for the parts and I'd never reuse seals no matter how new they are.
 
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