When to replace the Stator

rhp5033

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Apr 20, 2018
Messages
23
I have a original stator on a 1993 Evinrude 150 ocean pro. I have tested it following the service manual procedures and it is not grounding out, it appears in good condition, however the voltage output on both halves from cranking the motor is only 75v, where testing procedure calls for it to be around 150v or more on each half. Could this be a bad stator, or is it more likely low cranking rpm speed?
 

Crosbyman

Vice Admiral
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Nov 5, 2006
Messages
5,776
are you having an issue with the motor ??????????? or just testing the stator

are you testing one side to ground at a time or across two wires carrying an AC voltage because
each would have 75 v per opposite sine wave sides

just like a 220v hot water heater each wire is 110 measured to grd

just asking
 

rhp5033

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Apr 20, 2018
Messages
23
The motor is idling at the correct timing, however it is surging every few full rotations. I have ruled out fuel issues, air leaks, compression is good, etc. so it leads me to believe it is ignition related. it has new QL78YC spark plugs, new insulated wires from CDI for that motor, new optical sensor (the one on it seemed pretty beat up. The rectifier seems fine, as the tach is stable and no erratic, the dash indicates the stator is charging and above 14 volts while running. I have two old packs, and swapped in a new CDI power pack and all three did the same thing when observing spark. The starboard bank is very clear and obvious spark jumping 7/16", but the port bank you can not make out any spark on any of the three cylinders at cranking rpm. however, fire it up and idle and all six cylinders appear to fire, and depressing the shift interrupt switch kills half the engine (so the switch is not the culprit. There are no alarms or ground outs that I have been able to find.

So my reason to think its the stator is when checking the voltage at cranking from it, the values appeared low. I checked the voltage between the brown/black and brown/white wires (one side of stator) and the brown and brown yellow wires (other half of stator. Also ohmed the wires and checked for grounding out. The ohm test was normal (560 ohms both sides) and the orange wires (50 ohms) it was the voltage values were only 75.

My assumption is that the stator is not giving off consistent voltage, which is leading to the drop in voltage and resulting in the power surge across the motor.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Test run with a timing light to see if you can pinpoint the cylinder that might have iffy spark.
 

clanton

Rear Admiral
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Jul 9, 2001
Messages
4,876
You using a peak reading meter, or ADV adapter for a meter with 400 DC volts? How are you connecting the meter leads? The voltage is checked across the 2 wires.
 

rhp5033

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Apr 20, 2018
Messages
23
I am using a peak reading meter. I am testing at the open end of the connector. and across the two wires as I mentioned previously. Values measured between the Brown and Brown/yellow wires is 75v +/- 5v. Value measured between Brown/black and Brown/white wires is the same. CDI troubleshooting procedure shows it should be 150v for both. OMC service manual says similar.
 

rhp5033

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Apr 20, 2018
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23
And I have used a timing light on all spark wires trying to isolate, and all become erratic after several revolutions, so it seems like it is a full system voltage drop. Is it possible since voltage is low it builds to provide proper voltage and then depletes and misses on an entire revolution?
 

Faztbullet

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Mar 2, 2008
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15,931
Its normal for port side to be lower on voltage when cranking... has to do with coil and magnet position.
 

clanton

Rear Admiral
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Jul 9, 2001
Messages
4,876
Check the voltage output at the plus + side of the ignition coils, with the engine running at idle. What brand of meter, and what settings are using. Could be stator or magnets in flywheel.
 

Faztbullet

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 2, 2008
Messages
15,931
You need to understand that the voltage on charge coils don't matter when cranking as its going to be low. That's why 12V is supplied from solenoid to pack to get a extra bump to get it started. It sounds more like a cooling or sensor issue as it maybe trying to reengage Quickstart.This would give you a surge and erratic timing readings as you posted. You need to run in a barrel and not on muffs.
 
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