Will this prop bearing carrier break apart if removed?

[WinnerCougar74]

I have a 1974 135hp that runs ok. I know it's impossible to say how long it will run but the one area on the motor that seems bad is the prop bearing carrier. Is this normal looking corrosion? If I try to replace it is it likely to break apart? It seems brittle and there is probably corrosion inside that will make it real tough to get out.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you are going to need lots of prayers, lots of good penetrating oil (50% ATF, 50% acetone) and lots of heat.

did I mention prayers?

that corrosion is more than just normal corrosion.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

It seems likely that if the bearing carrier begins to leak or gets damaged that I will need to buy a rebuilt lower end. Seems like not only will the bearing carrier be ruined but the lower end housing will get damaged while attempting to remove the bearing carrier. On top of that so far I have not found a new carrier bearing anywhere. So far there does not seem to be any evidence of the carrier bearing seal leaking. Hopefully it will make it through another year.

 

[jerryjerry05]

IF??? it's not leakin??? don't mess with it.
Like Scott said, lots of heat, penetrating oil and a hammer and prayers.
I looked and couldn't find a replacement part either, maybe try
Franz Marine??

 

[WinnerCougar74]

That seems to be the case on just about everything on these Chrysler outboards. Most say just run it and don't mess with it. I believe in maintenance and tuning but I guess I should just run it. I have a little water in the crankcase but Franz asked me a critical question "Is there any oil leaking around the prop shaft?" So far the answer is NO. I think the shifter rod seal is leaking. I have the shifter rod seal and the water pump seal and I am hoping to replace it this year when I check the impeller. This was a previously garaged motor so maybe that has helped the seals from drying out. As you can see from the water pump pic below the lower end seems to have a lot of corrosion. I added a factory sacrificial anode this year. I am treating the seals with ATP-205 so maybe that will make them last longer. I don't like fixing anything that's not broken. So thank you very much for the very helpful info.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

Incidentally, back on Sept 2021, Franz Marine quoted me $1050 for a rebuilt lower unit. He said he had them in stock. I want this motor to last 1-2 years. Hopefully it will last that long. Then I'll sell it. If it's running I should be able to sell it for $500-$800.

 

[jerryjerry05]

IF?? there's no hope for a fix then use it and keep the oil fresh.
Also when trailering, keep the motor in gear so the prop won't turn as you go down the road.
The spinning prop out of the water can shorten the life of the seal.
Make sure the shift rod seal seat is spotlessly clean when changing.

 

[Grub54891]

Run it as is. I had an old outboard years ago that ran ok but the lower actually had a leak. Old Elgin if I remember correctly. Before the internet parts were hard to come by. I'd dump the oil after every outing and have a milkshake, re-fill and check/fill before launching. Used that thing for 5 yeas and gave it to another guy who did the same thing for another 5 years before he gave it to someone else. lol

 

[WinnerCougar74]

Currently, I only have a little water in the oil when I drain it. Real world info like this is in valuable. Quicksilver lower end oil is $12.00 at Walmart. I only need to replace the oil about twice a year depending on how many trips. I think I can buy a lot of that oil before I spend money on a newer Johnson/Evinrude. A decent Johnson/Evinrude will cost around $2500. Actually is a rebuilt lower end is $1050 divide that by $12 and I will save money as long as replace the oil less than 87 times. Lol. Thanks to everyone for their real world advise.

 

[jerryjerry05]

1988 twin 85 Forces.
They had an allen head set screw for a drain plug.
No matter what I did they both would weep at the set screw.
Every 3-4 times when I'd use the boat, I'd change the oil and try different thread sealers.
Did this for years.
Nothing ever worked, leaked until I sold them.
The only problem I had was salt water intrusion.
Eventually ate the transom clamps and assemblies.

 

[WinnerCougar74]

What a great real life story. I believe the simplest solutions are the best. These motors are basic and that's a good thing. If I was really committed I would buy a nice parts motor and then it would probably last the rest of my life. I have a sweet Mercury 9.9 that I use for trolling but even more importantly it's there to get me back to the dock. During a recent trip the 9.9 got me back twice. I would have been bobbing around a few miles off shore waiting for the BoatUS guys to come get me but instead I droned back into the dock safe and sound. Best $600 I ever spent. I learned a lot about my chrysler during that trip and I feel much more confident about keeping it running. If you stock pile parts when you find a good deal it can really keep the cost of ownership low. Imagine buying a lot of 4 fuel pump diaphragms for $14.69 points for $12.79 each a rebuilt prop for $41. Only thing that's looking worn right now is the distributor timing belt.

 

[jheydubya]

IF?? there's no hope for a fix then use it and keep the oil fresh.
Also when trailering, keep the motor in gear so the prop won't turn as you go down the road.
The spinning prop out of the water can shorten the life of the seal.
Make sure the shift rod seal seat is spotlessly clean when changing.

This is something you are supposed to do all the time? ( having the prop in gear while transporting)

 

[jerryjerry05]

Nowhere is it written down that it needs to be in gear, but
it's just a good practice that will save a seal from excessive wear.
Short trips ? long trips that I did when I trailered over 120 mi. to get to the ocean.
I've been doing that since 1988 when I realized the props were spinning on my new motors.
The hard part: you need to spin the prop as you put it into gear.
Normally the motors running and the shift is done while running and that way there's no stress on the cable and shifter.

 

[jheydubya]

Interesting, I recently purchased a boat with an 89 50 hp force outboard. My firt marine motor. I had to change the drive shaft seal, the boat was trailered and driven from Florida to Texas. The prop seal seems fine, I pressure tested it after running once with the new drive shaft seal.
Following this reasoning, wouldn't a prop spinning on the road wear out the drive shaft seal also?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Interesting, I recently purchased a boat with an 89 50 hp force outboard. My firt marine motor. I had to change the drive shaft seal, the boat was trailered and driven from Florida to Texas. The prop seal seems fine, I pressure tested it after running once with the new drive shaft seal.
Following this reasoning, wouldn't a prop spinning on the road wear out the drive shaft seal also?

no, the shifting of outboards is done in the foot, so only the prop seal is spinning in neutral. the shaft seal wont turn unless the pistons are turning the crank

 

[jerryjerry05]

No, the only thing spinning is the prop shaft.
Thus the wear on the seal.
The driveshaft only turns when the motor's running.

 

[jheydubya]

no, the shifting of outboards is done in the foot, so only the prop seal is spinning in neutral. the shaft seal wont turn unless the pistons are turning the crank

thanks for the info