Winter-Eze from Overtons

[capri_1850SS_lover]

Has anyone used this product before or have a comment on it?
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?i=26582&pdesc=Winter_Eze&cname=Winterizing&aID=601L10&merchID=1009&r=view
I have read the reviews from the website but would appreciate comments from the forum.

Thanks in advance

 

[jstutz101]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

I havent but know people who have, It's crap. I wouldn't trust it. You would be better off to at least pull the hoses and drain plugs at a minimum and that dosen't cost anything!

 

[fat fanny]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

capri don't waste your money let gravity do the work the only time I drew anti freeze up through the outdrive I ended up w/ a cracked intake manifold in the spring. Drain the block and manifold via removing all hoses and plugs blow out w/ compressed air and fill with anti freeze it has worked flawlessly for me everytime 8 seasons and counting take your time and let it set for awhile with hoses off and plugs out it only takes a little bit of water to ruin your spring dewinterization.

 

[ziggy]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

i've seen that and to me it looks like a good way to not be winterizing proper. the ramifications will likely be freeze damage... i wouldn't... do it the mercruiser way and be sure it's done right. freeze damage is preventable. shortcuts are a good way to get freeze damage..
ya know, ya can store it dry. w/o anything in the block and manifolds. air don't freeze...

 

[JustJason]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

It's a junk product. Theres plenty of info here in the forums about that product and similar ones to it. If you do that method of winterizing the engine you have a 50/50 chance of it being shot come springtime.

 

[bigskiohio]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

i pull thermostat,every hose and drain then i pour rv anti freeze in everything then i check by opening petcocks. i probly could just blow out and drain but the anti freeze makes me feel better.also drain the lower unit of any water or just change out oil or that will possibly freeze and crack l.u.

 

[ryendube]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

i pull thermostat,every hose and drain then i pour rv anti freeze in everything then i check by opening petcocks. i probly could just blow out and drain but the anti freeze makes me feel better.also drain the lower unit of any water or just change out oil or that will possibly freeze and crack l.u.

i luv that I read this, it pisses me off to no end watching automotive antifreeze being dumped all over my marina.

 

[gadget73]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

I drain my blocks and manifolds, re-install the plugs, then fire the engine with a set of muffs connected to a 5 gal bottle full of RV antifreeze. I run it till it starts spitting pink fluid out the exhaust, then shut the motor down. Probably don't really need to even run it after draining things down, but I like the extra insurance. I also don't use automotive antifreeze. Not only is it more expensive, but its highly toxic, and i don't want that crap in the ground if possible.

 

[sickwilly]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

I drain my blocks and manifolds, re-install the plugs, then fire the engine with a set of muffs connected to a 5 gal bottle full of RV antifreeze. I run it till it starts spitting pink fluid out the exhaust, then shut the motor down. Probably don't really need to even run it after draining things down, but I like the extra insurance. I also don't use automotive antifreeze. Not only is it more expensive, but its highly toxic, and i don't want that crap in the ground if possible.

Let me ask a clarifying question: Do you get it hot enough for the thermostat to open, and then do what you say, or just do what you say from a cold engine?

See, someone can read that, think they can do that from a cold engine, never have their thermostat open, see pink stuff coming out the back and leave a whole lot of water in there to freeze and damage the engine.

 

[Maclin]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

It takes me about 15 minutes to completely winterize my engine block and manifolds and get a 100% level of confidence.

I remove the two block plugs and poke around with a wire to get all the junk out, remove 2 exhaust manifold plugs and work all the junk out then remove the impeller (Volvo engine mounted raw water pump) to drain the power steering cooler and any remaining water in the lines. While all this is going on I let it fill with a very special gas mixture (the atmosphere) that won't freeze. I leave the plugs out and store the impeller inside.

All of that is free, and guaranteed to not ever have a freezing problem with the engine block or exhaust or power steering cooler. Almost any other gimmick is a recipe for failure in my opinion and limited experience.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

Unless you actually go in and drain everything first, there is no gaurantee the therm was opened before you saw the pink stuff in the exaust. Save your money.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

It takes me about 15 minutes to completely winterize my engine block and manifolds and get a 100% level of confidence.

Ayuh,... I've got it down to about 10,.... Drained,... Bone Dry......

 

[Don S]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

Ayuh,... I've got it down to about 10,.... Drained,... Bone Dry......

And air don't freeze and crack blocks.


Look up in the Adults only sticky, there is also a previous thread on winterizing with muffs and such.

 

[capri_1850SS_lover]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

Thanks for all the advice. I suspected that it wouldn't get positive reviews from the forum. I will heed everyones advise and learn to do it the correct way.

 

[bigskiohio]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

so on my 120 merc open the block drain, the manifold drains and thats it, do i tip the traier or blow air thru it?

 

[Maclin]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

Ayuh,... I've got it down to about 10,.... Drained,... Bone Dry......

I included dropping the plugs and retrieving them each a couple of times.....

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

The sticky talks about using a corrosion inhibitor but only mentions the salt away. For us that don't visit "a salty piece of land" can someone recommend a good corrosion inhibitor?

I'm making the assumption that you run it through the cooling system so it can make contact with the block internal cooling surfaces and then drain it all out.

Edit: Decided to research the forum and came up with some interesting discussions concerning draining or antifreeze. Some feel that there should be some sort of corrosion inhibitor for a drained water system since air intrusion will allow rust and scale to form. Others say this is poppycock and that they have never seen a block rust through from the inside. Although there are other threads, this one pretty much sums up one experts opinion: http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=54740&highlight=corrosion+inhibitor

This may seem like a thread hijack but I don't think so since there were several points brought up in this discussion. A flushing compound was subject the title but use of RV vs Automotive antifreeze and waterway contamination as well as draining the engine came into play.

 

[gadget73]

Re: Winter-Eze from Overtons

Let me ask a clarifying question: Do you get it hot enough for the thermostat to open, and then do what you say, or just do what you say from a cold engine?

See, someone can read that, think they can do that from a cold engine, never have their thermostat open, see pink stuff coming out the back and leave a whole lot of water in there to freeze and damage the engine.

yes, I have the engines at normal temperature before messing with it. More than once I've done it with the boat in the travel lift straps, immediately after hauling while the bottom is being pressure washed. Its kept at a private boat club, so there isn't usually a big push to get things off the lift for the next customer. We get free use of the lift as much as needed, so I make use of that.

Even with the thermostat closed though, if the block and manifold drains are pulled there won't be any significant amount of water in the system so it should still be fine. The only water that should remain after draining the block and manifolds is whatever lays in the hoses and maybe the water pump housing.