Winterising Q

[Tafflad]

Have a 2020 4.3L V6-280-C-N
Going to winterise this w/end, will remove SerpentIne belt, had a comment that worth removing water pump impeller.
Is this necessary ? ... always had Mercruiser previously and never had impeller removed.
Just replaced at end of season service.

Getting at water pump looks to be pretty awkward, without dismantling some major boat panels.

 

[Scott06]

In theory removing it over winter layup will reduce the amount the impeller takes a set , bends the vanes back, but if it’s a PITA to get to I’d leave it alone and just replace it more often.

 

[Tafflad]

I looked at it was at arms stretch, not had a thorough check depends if its an allen screw ... or a Phillips if the former then I may be able to reach at arm's length.

 

[Lou C]

I've heard this too, I guess it varies with the quality of the impeller, I've never pulled mine out and have been able to use them 3-4 seasons with no problems at all. I used to replace yearly and realized that I was wasting my money, they looked brand new each time. So the way I judge it is when I start it up in the spring I look to see how much water is exiting under the transom mount, if it looks normal then I leave it in.

 

[BRICH1260]

I pull my impeller each winter and replace again in the spring. I feel I get an extra year or so out of the impeller by doing this. it prevents the same vanes from being bent over for six months at a time. I also release the tension on my serp belt for the winter. Helps lengthen the life of the tensioner and the belt.

 

[Tafflad]

I always take Sepentine belt off, if I can reach water pump I’ll pull impeller.
New O-ring not a sale item, (only with impeller) assume you refit, do you lubricate with silicone grease or fit dry.

 

[QBhoy]

You can just pull the hose off and hold down far enough into bilge to drain it. If you taking pump cover off...very easy to snap the wee buggers that secure it. Perhaps not so much on your newer engine though.

 

[Tafflad]

Ar3 5g3 Phillips head or imperial Allen socket head

 

[QBhoy]

Ar3 5g3 Phillips head or imperial Allen socket head

Mine was a much much older VP to be fair. But they were brass type bolts with a flat head screwdriver or around a 8/10mm (or imperial equivalent). Very delicate and of course only an inch of clearance between them and the bulkhead fwd of them in the engine bay.

 

[Tafflad]

Mine was a much much older VP to be fair. But they were brass type bolts with a flat head screwdriver or around a 8/10mm (or imperial equivalent). Very delicate and of course only an inch of clearance between them and the bulkhead fwd of them in the engine bay.

sorry for typo .... I have a couple of inches I think but at absolute arm stretch

 

[Tafflad]

You can just pull the hose off and hold down far enough into bilge to drain it. If you taking pump cover off...very easy to snap the wee buggers that secure it. Perhaps not so much on your newer engine though.

It's not draining though that is the task here - it is removing impeller - central drain function takes care of water.

 

[dypcdiver]

1/4" drive socket set, use 5/16"AF or 8mm socket. There is also a slot for a flat blade screwdriver. (I see you have the latest motor which does not have the crankshaft mounted pump, however I would expect the screws are the same)

 

[BRICH1260]

I always take Sepentine belt off, if I can reach water pump I’ll pull impeller.
New O-ring not a sale item, (only with impeller) assume you refit, do you lubricate with silicone grease or fit dry.

I re-use the O ring to keep the pump from leaking antifreeze. I store impeller over the winter in a ziplock bag coated in glycerine.

 

[Tafflad]

Surely there won't be any anti-freeze as this is has a closed cooling system on engine side with the anti-freeze and the pump is on raw water side so no anti-freeze.
For storage is Glycerine better than Silicone oil ?

 

[QBhoy]

It's not draining though that is the task here - it is removing impeller - central drain function takes care of water.

Ok. Wouldn’t trust that too much though. Especially if you’ve been in the salt. I’d make sure manually.

 

[Lou C]

When I've done the Cobra every year I manually drain the raw water intake hose, and remove the water nipple drain on the side of the pivot housing (just like the V/P SX) and let it drain with the drive down. Then take the raw water intake hose and fill it with either -100 PG antifreeze or a 50/50 mix of Sierra PG antifreeze and water till it runs out the water intakes. That drains the impeller housing and fills all of it with AF. On the Cobra the impeller housing is at the top rear of the upper gear housing run off the back of the input shaft. A great design they take about 15 min to change, and the impellers last a long time. I also manually drain the engine & manifolds and back fill with the same AF. No problems in temps down to zero over 18 years worth.