Winterization Questions

Boilers2000

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Jun 15, 2018
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1. Engine Oil change okay after winterizing engine? Weather isnt cooperating and running out of time to get to a marine shop. First Winter want a pro to do the engine. Was planning on a cold oil chg (I know warm is best) once the boats back to put new oil for the winter nap.
2. If I pull my engine over winter anything special I need to do regarding winterization?

Thanks
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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1 - you want to change oil, however if your pulling the engine. do it then.
2 - you want to drain the motor/manifolds/hoses no mater what. pull the outdrive, then pull the motor. its a 45 minute to 1 hour job.
 

alldodge

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Trying to suck cold oil out of a motor is a bear, and depending on temp, the pump and weight of oil might not be able to do it.

If I pull my engine over winter anything special I need to do regarding winterization?

Don't understand this comment, if its already winterized, no need to do anything else.

pull the motor. its a 45 minute to 1 hour job.

This depends on the boat, wish in only took and hour to pull mine :facepalm:
 

Boilers2000

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Pulling the engine because I have a leak I am trying to get find the source and repair.

The comment regarding anything special around winterization after pulling is that I assume all the antifreeze will stay in the block, manifolds and pump and as long as I don't run the engine after reinstall the engine should be protected for the toughest part if winter in Jan-Mar. Just checking all my bases with the more experienced boat owners.

hopefully the rain holds off so I can warm the engine up and get the oil changed tonight before dropping off for run engine water drain and run through the antifreeze tank.
 

alldodge

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Not knowing what motor adds to the unknown, but some of the AF will come out, how much depends on how much the motor tips one way or the other as it comes out and goes back in. If all hoses were filled, any that are disconnected may spill more
 

Boilers2000

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Motor is a 92 4.3LX. Last time I removed it the only hose I disconnected was the water supply line from the out drive, and maybe a cup of water came out when pulling and reinstalling the motor. I imagine I can always pour some antifreeze down that hose before reinstalling the hose. Rest of the water in engine seemed well trapped in the block, manifold and hoses.
 

alldodge

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AF is a personal choice, and the assumption is corrosion protection as you say. The 4.3 hose to the drive goes up to the thermostat from the drive. Any AF in the hose would have already drained out the drive, an what ever has not is in the power steering cooler or hose, and neither need AF for protection
 

harringtondav

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Last winter I had my 4.3, and then my bud's 350 mag hanging on my hoist. We just pulled the oil pan plug and let the cold oil drain overnight. I'm guessing we got as much, or more out than hot oil and a dipstick pump.
 

Boilers2000

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Thanks All Dodge...Being a noob and my first winter I don't want to take any chances. I figured that most of the AF would stay in the block and manifold as long as i don't take of any of the cooling lines. And as someone said in another thread said "air doesn't freeze" Hopefully the weather holds off tonight, otherwise I don't think my neighbors will be happy when I fire up the engine at 8:30 to warm it up for the oil change.

Everyone on this forum is a life saver for having experienced people to bounce ideas off of and get extremely timely responses back! Thanks again!
 

achris

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As long as the engine (and manifolds) were drained of water then any AF that leaks out doesn't need to be replaced. You've got a higher risk as a freeze crack WITH antifreeze than without. If any leaks out while pulling the engine, consider it a bonus....

Chris....
 

Boilers2000

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Thanks Chris! I agree the AF sounds like more of a risk for a crack, but this one of those topics that people are really passionate about.
 
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