Winterization, raw water cooling system

schak

Cadet
Joined
Aug 19, 2007
Messages
8
I have a couple of questions below, a bit lenghty but hope you can help.

1. Do you have to change the engine and gear oil when winterizing? My understanding is that one of the reason for changing those oil is if water gets into the oil and freezes that would not be a good thing.. non-technically speaking.

My boat (w/ 3.0L volvo penta engine and sx-m drive) has less then 20hrs of operation on it, per the manual it is still in it?s ?break-in? period. The manual states?

Note: To ensure proper lubrication during the break-in period, do not remove factory break-in oil until after the 20-hour break-in is complete. The first service inspection should be carried out after 20 hours of operation.

My dilemma is should I change the oil for winterization (still looks good, not milky) or leave them alone to follow the break-in period suggestion.


2. Also, I hate to ask this question I?m always one for doing the job right the first time, but what are the minimum steps for winterizing a boat with raw water cooling system in a belowing freezing environment? ? Sometime you don?t have the time or money. I read through the winterizing sticky on this forum by Don S. that would be the best way to do it but what would be the minimum?

I was thinking as long as you drain all the water completely out of the engine, drive, bilge pump, exhaust manifold, and heat exchanger. Add a fuel stabilizer and run it through the system. Those should be ?good enough?? I do hate that word. What do you think?
 

Haut Medoc

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 29, 2004
Messages
10,645
Re: Winterization, raw water cooling system

I have a couple of questions below, a bit lenghty but hope you can help.

1. Do you have to change the engine and gear oil when winterizing? My understanding is that one of the reason for changing those oil is if water gets into the oil and freezes that would not be a good thing.. non-technically speaking.
It is good to know if you have a problem before winter than waiting till the spring to find out you have a problem....
Water causes rust, do you want water to sit in there for six months?.....

My boat (w/ 3.0L volvo penta engine and sx-m drive) has less then 20hrs of operation on it, per the manual it is still in it?s ?break-in? period. The manual states?

Note: To ensure proper lubrication during the break-in period, do not remove factory break-in oil until after the 20-hour break-in is complete. The first service inspection should be carried out after 20 hours of operation.

My dilemma is should I change the oil for winterization (still looks good, not milky) or leave them alone to follow the break-in period suggestion.
If it does not look milky, I would change it in the spring.....


2. Also, I hate to ask this question I?m always one for doing the job right the first time, but what are the minimum steps for winterizing a boat with raw water cooling system in a belowing freezing environment? ? Sometime you don?t have the time or money. I read through the winterizing sticky on this forum by Don S. that would be the best way to do it but what would be the minimum?

I was thinking as long as you drain all the water completely out of the engine, drive, bilge pump, exhaust manifold, and heat exchanger. Add a fuel stabilizer and run it through the system. Those should be ?good enough?? I do hate that word. What do you think?
If you have a heat exchanger & you have the proper mix, you only need to drain the raw water side of the system......
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,148
Re: Winterization, raw water cooling system

Ayuh,.......

As long as you Drain ALL of the Water from your Boat,.......

It can be Stored for Years.............;)
 
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