Winterize my 4 stroke?

[Dan180cc]

Greetings to all, I am trying to find out what I should do to winterize my Johnson 140 4 stroke.<br />This is a new engine I purchased this year. I have completed the breakin on it and have done the first oil change. I will be taking the motor back to the dealership for its tune up or what ever they do when they get to 25 hours.<br /> I had to get the oil filter from the dealership $12 then they wanted to sell me there 4 stroke 10-40 oil at 5.50 a quart. I went to wally mart and bought Mobil 1's 1040 synthedic blend for a little over 2$. How bad did I screw up? Is there a reason I should have bought the Johnson oil?<br /> My boat was used only in freshwater What should I do to prepare the engine for storage with temp's that will get into the single digits? Should I remove the batteries and store them inside? I do have a good cover for the boat and engine that I will be putting on soon.<br /> Do I need to fog the cylinders on a 4 stroke?<br /> Any advise is welcomed. Thanks, Dan.

 

[vidar]

Re: Winterize my 4 stroke?

fog cylinders-check gearcase oil for signs of water-charge battery and leave in boat (disconnekted) recharge midwinter and spring...strange thing:lifespan of battery best when stored in frezzer..(fully charged it wount frezze and the cemical process almost stops) but dont put a lead battery in with your food...

 

[rschnack]

Re: Winterize my 4 stroke?

I just bought a slightly used 50 hp four stroke Mercury from a dealer. The dealer told me to never fog a four stroke outboard! He said they ran into trouble fogging the motors because the outboards do not run hot enough to effectively burn the fogging oil out quickly. The oil can prevent the valves from seating which can cause problems. The dealer I deal with loans out a gas tank to winterize the motors. The tank contains a mixture of fresh gas, stabil, and two stroke outboard oil. I followed his recommendation and ran my motor on high idle for 30 minutes then disconnected the fuel line and let it run out of fuel. I also changed the oils. I would be sure to check with the dealer and/or your owners manual for their recommendations.<br /><br />Best regards,<br />RCS

 

[vidar]

Re: Winterize my 4 stroke?

dont fog it thru air intake if its a efi...just fog thru sparkplugs and turn engine a littel to spread oil in cylinders...you can also use 2stroke oil..buut i voud not run premiix thru system of a efi because of sensors and the engiine just burns the oil and dnt leave any film for protection....ii have done this on cars-lawnmvers-boats and many other stuff for more than 20 years several things stored more than5 years w noo prob..maybe im just lucky.......

 

[Forktail]

Re: Winterize my 4 stroke?

Your owner's manual will tell you exactly what to do.<br /><br />All of my Yamaha EFI's have what's called a "vapor separator", which must be drained of fuel prior to storage. The Yamaha's have little brass drain plugs to do this.<br /><br />Any oil that meets your outboard's viscosity and grade spec, and is API rated, should be fine. Mobil 1 is a fine product, so save a buck.<br /><br />I'd avoid putting 2-stroke oil in the engine. If you're worried about the cylinders, squirt a little of your 10W-40 into the spark plug holes, and turn the engine over a few times (without firing it).<br /><br />I try not to run my EFI injectors dry, so using fuel stabilizer on your final run is a good idea.<br /><br />Yes, I'd remove the batteries and give them a good charge. Change the lower unit oil to rid the outboard of any water. Maybe lube the prop splines so it comes off when you need it to. Grease everything. Spray the engine down with a drying silicon spray. I also like to run the hydraulic trim tilt rods all the way in to avoid contamination on the rods and keep them lubed.

 

[sloopy]

Re: Winterize my 4 stroke?

Defiantly Read your manual, It would be a shame to ruin a new engine. You should hook up the muffs or plug the hose into the flush port and run the engine with stabil in the gas for 20 minutes to play it safe. when the engine is all warmed up can open the thermostat housing and pour antifreeze into it. You can also run antifreeze into the engine through the flush port or muffs (this is easier) to do this you will need a bucket full of antifreeze and a good pump hooked up to the muffs or flush port. Turn the pump on before turning the engine back on. Check to make sure the engine is getting the antifreeze. When you are done flushing/anti-freezing the engine drain the oil (it will be warm so be careful but you will get all the metal pieces out) and add a new oil filter and oil. <br /> After the oil is changed take the spark plugs out and clean/regap them. before putting the cowling back on clean the inside of it with a damp rag and some windex, spray some wd40 over the engine block (a little). Then:<br />1. grease all the grease points with a MARINE GREASE <br />2. remove the propeller and grease the prop shaft.<br />3. drain then refill the lower unit oil.<br />4. clean the whole engine with a rag and some orange clean or windex. <br />5. (since you have a four-stroke) pump all your gas into a car or truck, if this is not possible fill the boat up and add more stabil<br /><br />Before doing any of the above check with your manual and do not do any of it, if you are unsure of your skills. Some of the more Knowledgeable people on this board (JB, 12 Footer or everyone else but me) can give you more details.<br />CHECK with your engine manual!!!!!