Wiring between stator and rectifier regulator on 1998 225 ocean pro

[jvalhenson]

friday noticed my Tach was showing 0 while at idle and up to around 3000 rpms. At the same time my voltage showed 13.5-14v. Then suddenly at around 3000 rpms the tach would suddenly start working and the voltage would shoot up to 16.5 and climb to 17.5 with increased rpms. The exact same thing would happen in reverse as I slowed down and around 2500-3000 rpms the tach would drop back to 0.

after some research I decided to order new rectifier regulator. All battery connections seem good and and are on with hex nuts no wing nuts at all.

So replaced the regulator/rectifier on my old 1998 ocean pro and when I went to plug it back into the stator plug noticed something wasn’t right with the stator side of the plug. The wire that plugs into the yellow without stripe had come loose and looked to be making intermittent contact as the end was burnt a little. Not bad just a little brown on the end and I assume that is what fried the regulator.....

the problem I have now is when my dad brought the tool to release the clip inside the plug to release the terminals he cut the wires off before I got a chance to mark them. So now I am not sure which wire from the stator should plug into which wire on the regulator.

the wires from the stator are both plain yellow no stripe on either. The schematics say one should be plane yellow and one yellow with brown stripe like the regulator has but they do not. They are just plane yellow.

anyone know which one of those wires coming off the stator should go to the yellow with strip on the regulator? As I am standing behind the motor looking forwards the wires come off the back of the stator so maybe a “left or right” wire as you are looking forwards at the back of the stator would help me out ha.

Trying to find the old stator and look at it as the one on it now is not the original. That was about 15 years ago though so I doubt I’ll actually find the old one. Major rookie mistake I know. Didn’t mark them to start with bc the one end had the bad spot on it but he snipped them off even before I knew what he was doing so here I am ha.

I have seen it suggested that the order doesn’t matter but then why would the one wire on the regulator have the stripe and the book say one of them on stator should have the stripe? Confused and concerned to crank the motor and fry another part or more or worse.

 

[Crosbyman]

my guess… stators put out AC voltage to be rectified so both wires provide alternating sine wave AC … the rectifier will put it back straight out as regulated DC

reversing the wires has no effect on the DC coming out of the rectifier/regulator with just 2 yellows it is a basic full-wave diode rectifier 2 AC in one DC wire out and a ground ( some have a ground wire some use the rectifier body to ground itself on the engine block..same result)

https://www.elprocus.com/full-wave-r...orking-theory/

see page 4-44
http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/evinrude/manuals/1992-2001johnsonevinrude.html#/230

 

[Faztbullet]

It doestnt matter as the aftermarket stator use solid yellow on both wires

 

[jvalhenson]

Well now I am really scratching my head. Ran the boat today and it is still doing exactly the same thing. All connections seem fine and while running at WOT was showing 14.5v.....but the tach was at 0-200rpm but really we were at more like 5000. After about 2 miles the tach suddenly shot up to 5000 and the voltage shot up to well over 17. Exact same thing. Came back down to idle and tach went back to 0 and voltage back to 13 or so. Hopefully didn’t just fry another rectifier regulator but I guess it probably did. Back to the drawing board. Maybe have a bad ground somewhere. Had meter on the battery at the time while also watch the voltage on the screen and they were with .5v of each other at all times. I don’t know and I am getting frustrated ha.

 

[tblshur]

jvalhenson reverse the two yellow wires just for kicks also cdielectronics have a lot of info on testing all . hope this helps

 

[jvalhenson]

Is there any way the stator can be causing the issue? I don’t see how it could being it’s just making AC so I don’t see how the stator itself can cause high voltage. For sure low voltage could be stator but just can’t see how it could cause high voltage. Gonna put the ohm meter in it later but just can’t see how it would be that. We did have some magnets come loose last year and marred up some of the plastic on the stator but all the coils etc look just fine. That said it was the very trip after replacing the magnets that the high voltage issue started

 

[tblshur]

jvalhenson sounds like you may have talked yourself right into a fix let us know what you find be safe :laugh:

 

[Chris1956]

Sounds like dirty connections,causing the tach to have intermittent connection to the stator.

The tach can take it, but, if you have intermittent connection from stator to VR, you could blow the new VR.

 

[jvalhenson]

My saga continues. Replaced stator and another rectifier regulator. Everything hooked up correctly and all connections good etc. all of this triple checked. Prior to replacing stator motor was running like a top just overcharging. Now suddenly it won’t run. Replaced those parts and immediately it wouldn’t crank. Act like it was about to crank then kinda pop/backfire through exhaust and cut off. Replaced all plugs and wires same thing. Kept messing with it and now it cranks and sounds right for a few second then sputters and dies. Good spark at all plugs. Next chance gonna try to test the output of the ignition side of the stator as I think it has ignition side and charge side? Any other ideas? Like I said was running perfectly prior to replacing stator and rec/reg. Any ideas on what to check other than new stator output?

 

[jvalhenson]

Oh I should add the previous stator had a short to ground from the damage from the magnet comes loose. Thought I had posted that already but guess I didn’t.

 

[Faztbullet]

Check flywheel key...….

 

[jvalhenson]

Will do

 

[jvalhenson]

Left off one possibly important thing....on the new stator the wires coming off the front of it are not color coded exactly the same as the old one. Only one had an orange wire and an orange with black stripe wire going to the power packs matching colors....however on the new one it has an orange wire and a black wire instead of the orange with black stripe. Naturally I plugged in the oranges together and the power pack orange/black to the new stator solid black wire. Seemed logical but as I’m thinking about it maybe those 2 are crossed somehow? Wouldn’t make sense but being an aftermarket stator maybe it’s just hooked up wrong? No directions came with it.

 

[jvalhenson]

thanks for the advice. In case anyone is following along with this it all seems to be good. Ran it this afternoon and filled a box with some fine trout with the kids. Still a couple little things gotta do like replace seals in tilt which I already have the kit for and the tach is still in and out intermittently but I think that may just be dirt connection on the back of it gonna look at that tomorrow but motor and charging system seem to be back to right.

to recap it all.....magnet came loose under flywheel which damaged the stator which fried the rectifier regulator. Also sheered the flywheel key I guess when the flywheel abruptly stopped when the magnet wedges under it and stator. 300 for stator, 300 for rec reg, 180 for 6 magnets, and 10 for flywheel key. Plus another 200 combined for the tilt seal kit and a steering seal kit. Came in at around $1000 total for the full fix. Over 3000 hours on her and counting as long she will spin gonna stick with her. On borrowed time I know so I’m sure a new 225 zuke is prob in the semi near future but dern I love the old looper. Ain’t as bad on gas as the reputation either. Not good of course but she gets 2.2-2.3 running 4000rpm and 30mph. Any faster than that though and it drops fast ha! Can get to 1.5 quick if I’m leaning to hard on it.