Won't Stay Running

[ldevaul77]

I have a 88 Procraft with an Evinrude 1987 E150TLCU and it won't run unless you have the choke lever pulled up. I found a burnt whole in the rectifier/regulator. What could of caused this and would this cause it to not get correct for to run at idle? I was able to push the chole lever down real quick and get it in gear but it would only run around 38mph. Next question is getting the flywheel off. It looks like there are 3 threaded holes to help press the flywheel off, is that correct and if so what size and thread are the holes? Thanks for all the help.

 

[racerone]

The holes are 5/16" fine thread.---Correct , those holes are used with a puller.---Having to use the primer valve indicates that carburetors need work.-----When did it run OK for you and what happened.

 

[ldevaul77]

After I bought it a few months ago, I had it out and it seemed like it had a miss every now and then. It will only run about 43mph which I thought was a little slow for a 19.5 foot bass boat with a 150. It has been hard to start having to use the primer valve at start up with the engine cold. But once the engine was ran then it would start up fine. Then Sunday it wouldn't hardly start at all. I found the rectifier/regulator has a burnt hole in the top of it close to the wires. I found it because I had the cover off starting it and saw the arching. Not sure why it burnt out to begin with. So I got one on order to see if that is the only problem or if the carbs needs cleaned as well. So what is the proper starting procedure? It has the push in key primer as well.

 

[racerone]

The lever on the side of the control is NOT A CHOKE LEVER at all.-----The electric primer valve replaced the choke flappers on your motor.----The lever that you raise up is the throttle only / warmup lever.----You need to follow some trouble shooting steps.-----Post your compression test results.----And do you have good spark on all leads.----Good spark will jump a gap of 7/16" or better !

 

[oldboat1]

serviced the water pump before running it hard?

 

[ldevaul77]

Cylinder compression is 1,3,5 cylinders was 71PSI and 2,4,6 was 70PSI. But when the regulator shorted out it must've took out the coil packs on cylindes1,3,2,6 because I have no spark coming out of them. So I'm going to replace all six of them and go from there.

 

[racerone]

Compression is way too low.------Test with another gauge.

 

[ldevaul77]

What should it be?

 

[oldboat1]

Did one in January. Don't have shop notes here, but recall 110-115 psi all around -- friend's motor with some starting problems that turned out to be ignition.

Your motor has a water-cooled regulator. Will want to be sure that burnt hole in the top doesn't occur with the replacement, or worse.

 

[ldevaul77]

Ok so if you measure resistance from the white wire on the starboard side to the white wire on the port side on the timer base it doesn't read anything. And when you measure the AC voltage from the white wire to the other side none of them read over 50mv. Two of the hold down clips for the timer base was under the ring and two was on top like they should be and it had wear Mark's on the top of the timer base because it was sitting crooked. So I'm pretty sure it is definitely bad. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong. Now I need to try to find a way to check the power packs to make sure they are good.

 

[ldevaul77]

Ok I have replaced the rectifier/regulator, power packs, and timer base and I'm still not getting any fire to the plugs. I'm lost at this point the only other thing that I can think of is the flywheel. I'm probably missing something that is pretty simple I hope. I was getting fire tons couple of the cylinders but now I'm not getting anything.

 

[oldboat1]

Did you replace the impeller/water pump? Did you try another compression tester?

Are you measuring spark with an open air adjustable tester? Is the motor cranking FAST? (300 rpm to produce spark)

 

[ldevaul77]

Why would I need to replace the impeller and water pump? I'm using an inline spark tester and I have tried pulling the spark plug out and testing it to ground that way as well. The problem now is that I'm getting absolutely no spark. The reason it wouldn't hardly run was I was only running on a few cylinders. I figured I'd worry about the compression once I got it back to running. Because one day it was running fine then the next day nothing.

 

[oldboat1]

Good luck with it.

 

[racerone]

^^++---Agreed------Orderly trouble shooting must be done on these motors.

 

[flyingscott]

You more than likely burnt a hole in the rectifier because you impeller is getting weak! Using the primer to start the motor cold is normal. I would expect your compression to be between 90-100 psi get a different gauge. Inline spark testers are pretty much useless to test spark. Have you checked the ignition switch? Is the lanyard connected? Have you tested that switch? Those motors are known for breaking rings. That happens in seconds.

 

[ldevaul77]

Ok I agree with orderly trouble shooting. I'm just asking why I would need to change the impeller/water pump when I'm now having problems with not getting spark now. Im mean if nobody will explain why I need to replace that then how will I ever learn anything. I do Industrial Maintenance for a living so I understand trouble shooting stuff in specific order. But if I'm training someone I explain why you do something a certain way as well. Thanks for the help so far.

 

[ldevaul77]

Thanks for for explaining everything flyingscott, it makes a lot more sense about the impeller. I've tried disconnecting the red plug at the motor to isolate it just to the motor and still doesn't have spark. I've got a stator ordered that will be here tomorrow. I did check and make sure the lanyard was connected. And one I put the flywheel back on tomorrow I'm going to check the compression again with a different gauge.