Worn gimbal ring issue

muskyfins

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While starting planning for this year's boat fixes, I came across the dreaded worn gimbal ring to steering arm shaft issue on my Bravo outdrive. Notably, the square steel shaft, wears the square bore in the aluminum gimbal ring. I haven't taken the time to measure the amount of play or size of the gap yet. The U-bolt and nuts should have been maintained by the PO every year per Mercruiser torque spec of 50 ft pounds. But it wasn't. It is my understanding that once there is more than "normal" slop between the two, that tightening will require excessive travel of the slotted area and cause the ring to snap. I am aware of the correct means to fix-remove gimbal ring and send for repair or replace. I would like to put this off until the fall if possible when I could remove the entire transom assembly, do the bellows, etc. And I'm aware of several methods to do this without removal including Mercruiser's plug kit and others.

My questions are if any of you have experience with #1, just how likely it is that the ring breaks if tightening is attempted? I have heard several folks on other forums say they snapped well below 50 foot pounds. If I were to try this, I would remove the nuts, clean the threads and tighten in 5 foot pound increments from 30, then 35, then 40 etc to 50 foot pounds. But it would really ruin my day to hear snap around 42 foot pounds. Also, I have read that even if it doesn't snap while tightening, the additional strain can cause a break later during operation. That would probably suck even more!!

#2 Do any of you have experience with shimming? I ran across the thread linked below, on another forum. Having experience building and designing equipment, this actually seems preferable over simply tightening because it would avoid the strain on the aluminum. As to strength, a wedge is a very strong connection. The hook of a crane is held in place by a tapered wedge in a fitting against the cable.

I've tried to be thorough, but inevitably I leave out some piece of info, so I apologize in advance for that. But trust me it's all very clear in my head. Thanks as always for the excellent advice here.
 
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Bondo

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Ayuh,.... I moved this to the Merc forum, as it's drive specific,......

I've been Lucky, 'n haven't had that problem,.....

I throw a wrench on 'em whenever I think of it while servicin' the drive, 'n check 'em with my calibrated elbow,.....

While it may not be right, I might try yer option 2, shimmin', over option 1, myself,...

Ya don't want a Wedge though, ya just wanta take up the space as squarely, 'n evenly as possible,...
As to strength, a wedge is a very strong connection. The hook of a crane is held in place by a tapered wedge in a fitting against the cable.
 
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muskyfins

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Thanks Bond-O. When I said wedge, I meant I wouldn't worry about the shim would fall out or get pushed out. She'd be in there securely.
 
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alldodge

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Never tried the shimming but my thought would be, the bolts are tight, leave them be. Wait until the end of season and fix it then
 

muskyfins

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Never tried the shimming but my thought would be, the bolts are tight, leave them be. Wait until the end of season and fix it then

That was my first thought, but at what point is this a safety issue? And I havent had a chance to see just how bad the handling is. Although a lot of the time is spent either at no wake, or tied o a pier/on the hook...... There's about a 2 mile spot on the river that's rough as he!!, that'd be my primary concern for taking a beating.
 

alldodge

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That was my first thought, but at what point is this a safety issue? And I havent had a chance to see just how bad the handling is. Although a lot of the time is spent either at no wake, or tied o a pier/on the hook...... There's about a 2 mile spot on the river that's rough as he!!, that'd be my primary concern for taking a beating.

Sorry not being flipped here but its your boat and you got to decide. My guess since it may have concerned you a bit last season but not alarmed you would be OK. Two season ago my developed some play and started getting worst. It could really be noticed at idle, not so much on plane. When I pulled the transom off last season it was all the top nut and pin clamp gave me all the play.

If it is worth investigating further then I would suggest getting one of the drill kits (used one on mine years ago). Drill one hole in the side, and if it looks OK, or needs a slight bit of tightening, then it can be touched up. The kit drills a 1 inch hole and comes with a tap and plugs. Drilling the hole and tapping is fairly simple and not that hard.
 

muskyfins

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Jun 7, 2012
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580
OK-took forever and I have no pictures, but here's the story.

Diagnosis/analysis:

1. I set my torque wrench to 35 ft/lbs.
2. Sprayed nuts with PB Blaster and waited 15 minutes.
3. TIGHTENED nuts-they turned about 1 full revolution before achieving the 35 ft/lbs. This told me they were not maintained correctly by the previous owner. 4. Continued in 5 ft/lb increments to tighten to 45 ft/lbs. At this point there was some improvement but not enough. So I backed off the nuts almost all the way.

Repair:
1. I ordered some hardened bronze shim stock from an industrial distributor but you might find at a local hardware store. .010 and .020
2. Cut shims 1/2" x 1"
3. Turned drive all the way port.
4. Slipped shim in starboard side of shaft above bolt in the gap through the relief groove in the gimbal ring. This took some finessing and wiggling but once it passed the "sticking point" it slipped right in.
5. Turned the drive all the way starboard.
6. Slipped shim in same as previous but on port side this time. Basically on the side where the groove/slot is exposed.
7. Repeated procedure to add total of 2 shims on each side.
8. Aligned shims to maintain even contact along shaft side.
9. Tightened nuts to 35 ft/lbs
10. Tightened nuts to 50 ft/lbs in 5 ft/lb increments

Result-UNBELIEVEABLE!!!! The gimbal ring compressed all the way to the shaft. The biggest difference was in the last 5 ft/lbs but she is super tight. I would say this boat has tighter connection than any boat I've ever owned. There is zero slop. To be honest, I can't actually believe it worked. I ended up using the .010 shim stock, but only because I grabbed the wrong stuff when I cut my shims. I had intended to uses the .020. In any case, I took up .020 of slop on each side of the shaft and it worked so I'm happy with it. As for safety, I don't think the shims are going to suddenly fall out. Between the compressive force and the lack of room to wiggle out, I'm not too concerned. If anything changes in the steering, i'll haul and take a look.

I wasn't super close to breaking anything, but my usual torque setting is "half a turn before snap". I was above that threshold when the wrench clocked 50 ft/lbs. That was a little nerve racking.

Hopefully this post will help someone else in the future. It CAN be done. I will update at the end of the season.
 
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