Year long resoration

Smokin'Mo

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Oct 12, 2007
Messages
32
After spending countless nights reading, learning, more reading, more learning, on this forum over the past year, I was able to build enough confidence to tackle a project I never thought I would attempt. I purchased a 21ft fishing boat a little over a year ago only to find out that it was in pretty bad shape. I would have felt bad about the money I spent to buy the darn thing if it hadn't been for the 200HP Merc hangin' off the back. The day I bought the boat is the only day I have been on the water in it. The motor ran beautifully and the boat, surprisingly enough felt pretty solid. When I got it home it was another story alltogether. I started closely inspecting it when I realized the transom had a depression in it at the bottom of the motor bracket. I though "easy fix", I'll just put a stainless plate under the bracket and I'm done. It wasn't until I started inspecting the inside that I realized the stringers (4 of them) were more or less wet sawdust. I decided, after stumbling upon the iboats forum, that I could probably tackle this job with not too much difficulty. I started ripping and tearing in my garage in around October 2007 and to date I have completed all of the demolition and about 80% of the rebuild. I will try to attach links to the photos and hopefully it works. Just wanted to say thanks to all the good guys on this forum for sharing the wealth of knowledge and information that makes it possible for the rest of us to learn a thing or two.

http://photobucket.com/SmokinMo_Boat_Restoration
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Year long resoration

very nice project, good work.
 

jonesg

Admiral
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
7,198
Re: Year long resoration

Except for cutting the transom from the outside I did similar, cut the floor out but left a lip, cut the splashwell out and did the transom from the inside and top but left the rail on the boat.

One thing that would have made removing the transom wood easier is an elec chainsaw, it doesn't damage the glass unless you're stone deaf.
I'm using it to cut the stringers out this week, nice weather today.

Its not how we rip apart that counts, its how they get put back together.
 

keepNitreel

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 21, 2008
Messages
446
Re: Year long resoration

I think you did a good job with the stringers and deck. Not so sure I would have done the transom that way though. Seems like a lot more can go wrong if not done right. 200hp is a pretty heavy motor. But I'm still green at this stuff myself, so what do I know :confused:

8420.jpg
 

maxum247

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 18, 2007
Messages
1,363
Re: Year long resoration

First! I'd like to say looks great!
Can you describe the process you used to reinforce the interior of the transom to support the Merc? Plywood thickness, what ounce fiberglass cloth used, etc?
 

Smokin'Mo

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Oct 12, 2007
Messages
32
Re: Year long resoration

The transom is made up of 8 layers of 1/4" marine ply held together with PL Premium. I didn't glass the inner surface except for areound the perimeter with 3 units of matt/roving that extends 8" or so down the side of the hull and the same onto the transom wood as well. The inner surface previously did not have an inner glass skin but I did coat it several times with resin. There isn't much left that hasn't been covered. On top of that, the stringers, 4 of them were also glassed to the transom to add substantial strength. The final finish for the floor, transom, splashwell(inside & out) will be sprayed with either Rhinoliner or Linex including the 6" or so up the sides of the original liner where the floor was attached, for a nice clean & strong surface. I have a neighbour who use to build fibreglass boats for a living. He has been checking my progress along the way. Another source of information is a local boat building company (Commander Yachts) that I have spoken to a few times about the methods I am using. Both sources have given me the green light on what I am doing. I also called the original manufacturer of the boat (Campion Marine in Kelowna, BC) a few months back to ask if there was a problem with making the stringers thicker that original. The guy I spoke to remembers building these boats and was glad to see someone rebuilding one instead of trashing it. He said to go ahead and use the thicker stringers and that even though it may be overkill it would not cause any problems.

I can honestly say that even though I have spoken to all these people about my rebuild, I have gained 95% of the information and advice from this forum and all the knowledgeable people who patiently offer assistance and advice 7 days a week.
 

Smokin'Mo

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Oct 12, 2007
Messages
32
Re: Year long resoration

Sorry about that Maxum247,

I used 18oz. roving everywhere including the stringers, transom and flooring. Most areas got 2 units, but the transom had 3 inside and out. Poly resin was used entirely except where I re-attached the new floor the the existing inner liner. There I used epoxy for extra strength since it is a critical joint. I also used epoxy to adhere the floor to the stringers. No poly was used on top of epoxy. Stainless screw were used to secure the floor to the stringers as well.

Mo
 

maxum247

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 18, 2007
Messages
1,363
Re: Year long resoration

I worked in boat shops on and off from the late 70's to early 80's helping to build 50 to 70 foot sport fishing yachts, I was one of the guy's who did the fiberglass work on the plywood hulls and plenty of hand blocking to fair the hull after the hull was sprayed with what we called spot and build, but have yet to redo the transom of one of these small boats. Nice to have the info for the future. Thank's!
 
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