Yet another 470 charging thread

shamrok911

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Jul 19, 2014
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Good morning folks, long time lurker and new-ish boat owner flopping out my first post. The wife & I picked up a 1983 MelHart Success with 470. As is par for any course in which I partake, I learned a little late that the engine in our new-to-us boat was less than desirable. That said, it has some of the upgrades & fixes that I have seen recommended, but not all. One of the things that it doesn't have is an alternator in place of the stator/voltage regulator. Aaand the past 4 or 5 times out the voltage regulator was putting around 18 volts out until it got up to temp. Great. Looking at this thread...

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...=1410094706965

I decided to give this a thorough review and try to source some better parts. Found a potted severe duty vr with a built-in rectifier and ordered. Got it in yesterday (with only slight drama) and all seems well. I do intend to put an alternator in over the off season, which here in Pittsburgh is not insubstantial.

Just wanted to throw out an update on a possible partial season work around. I am aware of the non marine aspects of what I've done, but this vr (at least in the seller's info on it) lists it as suitable for marine applications and it is epoxy filled as stated earlier. Will post back after I've lived with it for a few runs. Questions, comments, suggestions are welcome... Ken
 
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So what you are saying is you have replaced the factory VR with an aftermarket VR and it is working for the time being? What is the part# and maker of the part?

Welcome aboard.. I remember that thread you have a link to also. ;)
 

shamrok911

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OK, so last evening we were out for a couple hours, and the part linked in my post above is definitely keeping the voltage steady at around 13 volts. Without getting a meter on some wires, I can't say if that's my gauge reading wrong, if the rotor/stator might be worn or wearing, or if that's just how the part/system performs.

We warmed up at the dock, ran about 10 mins at 3200 rpm to our favorite float spot, shut down and ran the stereo for about an hour. Then we idled around for about 30 mins in a no-wake zone and ran 10 mins back to the dock. No fluctuations, no 18 volts at startup. I do think the fried oem VR killed my bilge pump though, because the fuse was spectacularly blown and blew another that I tried when we got back to the dock. Battery cranked normally, not sluggish or slow, even after the hour long float running the stereo and the nav lights for about the last 15 mins.
 

stonyloam

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Mar 13, 2009
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The OEM vr was water cooled, make sure the new one is not getting too hot.
 
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nola mike

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Apr 22, 2009
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I remember that thread as well. Very unsatisfying conclusion. Would be great if this worked.
 

nola mike

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Apr 22, 2009
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I remember that thread as well. Very unsatisfying conclusion. Would be great if this worked.
 

shamrok911

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Jul 19, 2014
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Sorry for the delay folks, back with a little more info. After 4 outings, all about the same length as outlined in my previous post, I can say that the aftermarket regulator definitely keeps the voltage steady at 13v while running. With my super accurate PT5 contact thermometer (read: hand), the case of the vr is just a smidge above comfortable to rest bare skin on, but no wires are scorched, have bubbled insulation, etc. The only thing I would have done differently is to extend the B+ from the old regulator and maybe the sense wire as well, if only to have made installation easier. Also, I believe the link I posted was wrong, the vr I ended up installing has a substantial finned chrome heat sink. See this link... http://aspwholesale.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=5504 Overall, I'm quite happy with this fix. The lower voltage concerned me at first, but as I said I have had zero problems starting, running ir with electronics. Other than the blown out bilge pump, of course. Any questions or concerns, let 'er rip... Ken
 
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