Gale outboard info

[robsbots]

Hi all.

I have just purchased a Gale Buccaneer 15D14B outboard. Currently it is only firing on one cylinder. I need to check the coils/points/HT leads etc. It looks to me as if I have to remove the flywheel from the shaft to do this. Is this correct.

Are manuals available for these engines. I would love to be able to download or purchase a service manual for this engine.

Its quite and old engine but the plan is to use it on my fishing boat as the main engine.

I also have a Gale CD15 for spares. Looks like they are similar and share a few parts.

Any info on either of these engines would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Rob

 

[tmcalavy]

Re: Gale outboard info

Yes, you have to pull the flywheel to do a tune up. You will need a harmonic balancer puller and hardened bolts. Check the coils, points, condensors and plug wires, too. Most times, loss of spark is due to dirty/cruddy points...easy to fix.

 

[F_R]

Re: Gale outboard info

Yes, you have to pull the flywheel to do a tune up. You will need a harmonic balancer puller and hardened bolts. Check the coils, points, condensors and plug wires, too. Most times, loss of spark is due to dirty/cruddy points...easy to fix.

Your Buccaneer is closely related to, but not exactly the same as, a Johnson or Evinrude. This manual will be useful for you. http://www.iboats.com/Johnson-Evinr...7649672--**********.163097270--view_id.688597

CD-15 is a 5.5hp Johnson model number. I don't know what is going on there.

 

[tim_k]

Re: Gale outboard info

1962 15 hp, per my records. Should be a good motor for you, and relatively easy to work on. Didn't find a CD15 listed, though. Was there more to that ID?

Go with tmcalavy's advice. A lot of times those old OMC coils are cracked. If so, replace them. Not too expensive. Good luck!

 

[robsbots]

Re: Gale outboard info

Thanks for the help guys.

Im in the UK so I will try to find a local supplier for the manual. The Manual + p&p will cost more from the states than the motor did.

I assumed the CD15 would also be a 15hp motor. When I went to pick up the Buccaneer the guy also had this other motor so for ?25 quid I thought why not. The complete model number as quoted from the data plate was CD15. The serail no. was B1675. Thats all the info I have on that motor, but it looks similar in design to the Buccaneer. Unfortunatley the carb is missing and either the gearbox or engine is seized.

I have built a puller for the flywheel. I assume it is a friction fit and just needs to be pulled. No other fixings/clips that I can see.

The coils look to be in bad shape. The outer casings are cracked and flacking away on both coils. Can't really get a good reading on them trough the hole in the flywheel so assumed it had to be pulled. As for the rest. Can't see much at present. One side of the ignition works so I should be able to test one side against the other and see if there are any problems once I pull the flywheel.

Thanks very much for your help guys. Any more info you may have would be great. I'll post here on my progress

Regards
Rob

 

[F_R]

Re: Gale outboard info

If the coils are cracked, they are junk. no need to test them, just replace.

As I said, a CD-15 is a 1958 5.5hp Johnson. Somebody has been switching parts or numbers or whatever.

 

[robsbots]

Re: Gale outboard info

After closer examination of the CD15, I belive something is amiss. I suspect the serial no/Model plate is not original to the motor.....

As for the Buccaneer....
I have built a puller but this fail to work. (I sheared off the rod that pushed on the center shaft). I will obviously need the real thing as I can't harden the rod. I cannot produce a high enough temperature to produce hardening.

The Buccaneer flywheel should just pull off the shaft I assume? I can't see any other fixings.

 

[JasonAych]

Re: Gale outboard info

I heard of a trick but I am not recommending it. I would only use it if I had no other choice. You pry lightly up on the flywheel then strike the crank shaft down with a hammer (cooper or brass). Leave the nut flush with the top of the crank threads so you do not damage anything. The idea is that there is a little up and down play in the crank and bearings. When you pry up and strike down you are using this little bit of play to jolt it loose. You are risking damaging your crank and flywheel with this method. If you can get the right puller, that is what I would do. My local automotive stores lend out tools for free with a refundable deposit.

 

[JasonAych]

Re: Gale outboard info

To answer your question, yes just remove the nut. Nothing else holds it to the crank.

 

[F_R]

Re: Gale outboard info

I HATE it when people hammer on the nut to remove the flywheel. 90% of the time it damages the threads on the shaft, making it impossible to retorque the nut properly. You can get a harmonic balancer puller at an auto parts store. Some will even loan you one.

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: Gale outboard info

After closer examination of the CD15, I belive something is amiss. I suspect the serial no/Model plate is not original to the motor.....

As for the Buccaneer....
I have built a puller but this fail to work. (I sheared off the rod that pushed on the center shaft). I will obviously need the real thing as I can't harden the rod. I cannot produce a high enough temperature to produce hardening.

The Buccaneer flywheel should just pull off the shaft I assume? I can't see any other fixings.

It's possible that someone may have swapped out the transome bracket to a bracket off of the 58 Johnson 5.5hp. The real ID on the motor can be found on a quarter sized aluminum welch plug on the powerhead

 

[mettyfish]

Re: Gale outboard info

Talking about flywheel pullers. I just bought the harmonic balancer style at auto parts store for 16 bucks Not bad. Metty

 

[robsbots]

Re: Gale outboard info

Hi all.

I have managed to remove the flywheel from the motor. Checked the coils which were in bad hape. I have replaced them from my second engine. I now have a spark at both plugs. Can't get the engine started though. It will fire occasionally but will not catch.

Running though the air box is a shaft which has a needle on the end. This should be held in with a fixing of some sort which is missing. It passes though a treaded collar then on into the top of the carb. Is it possible to get hold of spares for these sort of parts in the states. In the UK this sort of stuff is very hard to find. I don't have any part numbers for the engine which makes it harder.

Any idea what the setting should be for the front controls. I think our current problem is that of fuel/air mixture. Dont readlly know what this should be set to. Should the afore mentions needle be uncrewed a quarter turn/halft turn/32 turns to start. The center control. Should this be a quarter turn/ half turn etc to get somewhere near. What should the points gap be. Any info on the inital settings would be of great use. We are so close. Not sure what to adjust next though. Any ideas

Thanks guys

Rob

 

[keith-uk]

Re: Gale outboard info

Can't get the engine startedthough. It will fire occasionally but will not catch.

Are the HT leads (plug leads) on the right plugs, you will get it to fire occasionally, but not start.

 

[robsbots]

Re: Gale outboard info

I think so. I have swapped the leads just to test, but I checked which contact was closed on the points when the fly wheel was turned and made sure the corresponding piston was at top dead center. Don't know much about engines but I assumed this was correct.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Rob

 

[JasonAych]

Re: Gale outboard info

Looking at the engine from the front, the left coil goes to the top plug.

The main needle jet (only jet) is secured by packing (sealent) and a threded collar. The packing squashes around the needle shaft and seals it all as well as keeping it somewhat tight. If you have neither you will get too much air causing it to run too lean which is a bad thing. I have been using neoprene o-rings in place of the old packing.

To get it started you need to prime it and set the needle jet to about 1/2 to 3/4 out. If it were all toghether you would have a spring loaded lever that would push down on the inlet valve shaft sticking out of the top pf the fuel bowl to prime it. This basically causes the bowl to flood and force fuel into the venturi through the main jet. You are supposed to prime for 8 - 10 seconds. Once running, it will run good at about 1/8 - 1/4 out on the needle jet. The timing advance lever (throttle lever) setting for starting is a little past the center of the engine to the right.

 

[JasonAych]

Re: Gale outboard info

Gap on the points is .020 and .030 on the plugs.

 

[robsbots]

Re: Gale outboard info

Thanks for the info guys. All gaps are set. Im just enquiring about a new needle/gland nut and collar for the carb.

Almost there

Thanks again.

Rob

 

[F_R]

Re: Gale outboard info

Are we still talking about the 15hp here? The 15 uses a common carburetor very similar to the ones used on Evinrude and Johnson motors. Different needles to accommodate the different cowlings. The lower needle (center knob) should be open about 3/4 turn to begin. The upper needle should be open about 1-1/2 turns. Both should have serviceable packings to hold them still. The lower one is the high speed mixture and the upper one is the idle speed mixture. The upper one is linked to the right hand knob. It has a real choke, not a primer. Except for the needles and knobs stuff, Evinrude parts will work.

EDIT: robsbots, I'm curious--you guys in UK are always bellyaching about not being able to get parts. Can't you get them from Canada? You are related aren't you? In Canada your Gale motor was sold under the Viking and Elto brand names. They were built in Peterborough, Ontario and yes, I probably spelled that wrong. (??) And the OMC plant serving Europe was in Belgium. Seems strange that parts aren't available in UK. But what do I know? Maybe you guys just toss the old motors in the dustbin.

Followup: I don't know about Canada, but postage for a one pound package from U.S. to Great Britain is US$ 10.76. That is for First Class Int'l Air.

 

[robsbots]

Re: Gale outboard info

Are we still talking about the 15hp here? The 15 uses a common carburetor very similar to the ones used on Evinrude and Johnson motors. Different needles to accommodate the different cowlings. The lower needle (center knob) should be open about 3/4 turn to begin. The upper needle should be open about 1-1/2 turns. Both should have serviceable packings to hold them still. The lower one is the high speed mixture and the upper one is the idle speed mixture. The upper one is linked to the right hand knob. It has a real choke, not a primer. Except for the needles and knobs stuff, Evinrude parts will work.

EDIT: robsbots, I'm curious--you guys in UK are always bellyaching about not being able to get parts. Can't you get them from Canada? You are related aren't you? In Canada your Gale motor was sold under the Viking and Elto brand names. They were built in Peterborough, Ontario and yes, I probably spelled that wrong. (??) And the OMC plant serving Europe was in Belgium. Seems strange that parts aren't available in UK. But what do I know? Maybe you guys just toss the old motors in the dustbin.

Followup: I don't know about Canada, but postage for a one pound package from U.S. to Great Britain is US$ 10.76. That is for First Class Int'l Air.

I didn't know Gale's were built in Begium. I assumed OMC was an american complany and so that was where they where built. Doh...

I have found somebody in the UK that deals in second hand Evinrude and Jonhson parts and have sent him a diagram of the needle. Hoping to hear from him tommorow as to avaiablilty of the parts. He is the first person who has not laughed and said "You brought a what. No chance mate...."

I'll let you all know how I get on .