Blowing Battery Terminal Fuses when starting

[baccus06]

I have a 1996 StarCraft 2010 with the 5.7L/Alpha1. I put in a Blue Sea Add-A-Battery kit over the winter and everything has been working fine until this past weekend. I have the Blue Sea terminal fuse blocks and fuses on and they blow after the motor cranks. I have double checked everything with the switch and it all appears to be hooked up right. Could something be wrong with my starter? Any ideas would be really helpful. Thanks

 

[bruceb58]

There should be no fuses inline with the battery and the starter. The fuses they recommend are to the ACR only. In other words, no current should be going through any fuse when you crank the engine.

 

[UncleWillie]

+1 ^^^

The fuse blow WHILE cranking the motor?
Or, The fuse Blow AFTER starting the motor?

The fuses to WHAT?
What doesn't work after the fuses blow?

The starter should be connected DIRECTLY to the Battery. No Fuses.
A Starting Rated Battery Selector Switch may be inline, but nothing more.

 

[baccus06]

I finally was able to do some work on the boat this past weekend. I found that when the battery is hooked up as a single battery with no switch, the motor cranks once before it stops. I'm going to bench test the starter to rule it out, but can someone describe what a seized motor trying to crank might sound like? I realize that being seized it wont crank, but I'm not sure what I'm hearing is that either. Any thoughts? Thanks guys

 

[Fleetwin]

If the wiring is right per above and connections are clean and tight, I would recommend removing the spark plugs and spinning it over. Any water out of the spark plug holes?

If so, that is hydrolock.

You'll need to investigate the source of water intrusion: Manifolds, risers, etc.

 

[baccus06]

If it is hydrolocked, how do I get all the water out of the block. Pump it out like changing the oil and then flush with fresh oil a few times?

 

[alldodge]

If it is hydrolocked, how do I get all the water out of the block. Pump it out like changing the oil and then flush with fresh oil a few times?

You were blowing a fuse in the original post, hydrolock would have no effect on a fuse.

If you also have a hydrolock issue, pull all the plugs and see if any are wet and if you see water. After plugs are pulled, disable distributer by unplugging it, then crank the engine over and see if water spits out.

 

[baccus06]

So I was finally able to pull the plugs out this weekend. Water poured out of what I believe is cylinder 7 (port side closest to transom. correct the number if I am wrong please) and cylinder 5 had rust on the end of the threads. Now how do I figure out how the water got into the cylinders? I pulled off the exhaust riser on the port side and the gasket looked good and the riser appears to be in decent shape (not sure if they were ever replaced) but I don't know what I'm really looking for. The oil on the dipstick looked good yet (only a few hours on it this year, but I know I need to flush the oil to make sure there is no water in the oil. Can anyone point me to where I can go to figure out what's going on or have any suggestions? Thanks

 

[alldodge]

So I was finally able to pull the plugs out this weekend. Water poured out of what I believe is cylinder 7 (port side closest to transom. correct the number if I am wrong please) and cylinder 5 had rust on the end of the threads.

Odd numbers on the port side, even on starboard, so you are correct.

Now how do I figure out how the water got into the cylinders?

Since cylinders 5 and 7 (next to each other on port side) shows signs of water the next thing to do is a compression test. You may have either a blown head gasket or crack in the exhaust manifold.

I pulled off the exhaust riser on the port side and the gasket looked good and the riser appears to be in decent shape (not sure if they were ever replaced) but I don't know what I'm really looking for. The oil on the dipstick looked good yet (only a few hours on it this year, but I know I need to flush the oil to make sure there is no water in the oil. Can anyone point me to where I can go to figure out what's going on or have any suggestions? Thanks

Pull the exhaust manifold off on the port side and see what you find

 

[baccus06]

I hope its just a cracked manifold. I really don't want to rebuild the engine and the entire interior. Can I do the compression test with the riser off or should I reinstall it before pulling of the manifold? I've never done a compression test before. Is there a good write up on doing a compression test?

 

[alldodge]

I hope its just a cracked manifold. I really don't want to rebuild the engine and the entire interior. Can I do the compression test with the riser off or should I reinstall it before pulling of the manifold? I've never done a compression test before. Is there a good write up on doing a compression test?

Yes, you can do the test without the riser on. Remove your outdrive so not to damage the impeller. Remove all plugs and mark them for which cylinder. Disconnect the connectors going to/from the distributer. Install gauge in a cylinder, crank engine over for 4 revolutions or so, write down reading. Remove from cylinder and repeat for each cylinder. If you get an readings which are a lot lower then others, squirt a small amount of oil in cylinder and repeat test.

Get a gauge something like the one below. It has quick connects which make it easier to install. You can get one which does not use quick connects and that's OK, just don't get the one with a rubber tip which has to be held in place.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...on-tester/_/N-25j0?itemIdentifier=273352_0_0_

 

[baccus06]

Thanks. Hopefully I can get to that in the next day or 2.