1985 Bayliner 1985 Force 85hp

1nanoman

Cadet
Joined
Jul 16, 2014
Messages
7
hi i just got a 1985 Bayliner Capri Bowrider
with 85 HP its going to be a fixer upper my main concern at the time is the outboar motor the boat has no ignition switch it has all the wires can some one please tell me what kind of ignition switch i need to get it has 6 wires ,interior has seen better days as the hole floor needs to be replaced
 

cr2k

Captain
Joined
Mar 19, 2009
Messages
3,730
Ignition sw for outboard w/maginito. basically OFF position makes contact and grounds the ignition unlike automotive.
Also Push to choke. Any hole in the floor can be an indication of much greater problems such as rot. Rotten stringer, rotten transom.
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Six pole push-to-choke standard switch. You really should go over to the Force forum and search because there are any number of threads detailing wiring of the engine. However, to get you started: Red attaches to the "B" terminal on the switch. Yellow or yellow with a red trace attaches to the "S" or start terminal. Green attaches to the "C" or choke terminal. Orange is overheat and does not attach to any switch terminal. Black is ground and again does not attach to any switch terminal. It can be used as a common ground under the dashboard. White and Blue are the stop circuit and one attaches to one "M" terminal while the other attaches to the other "M" terminal.

NOW, having said that and having worked on a couple of Bayliners, IF the engine was mounted on the boat at the factory, Bayliner MAY have used different colors and the stop circuit may be different also, utilizing the black ground instead of the blue (which may not be there) as the stop..
 

1nanoman

Cadet
Joined
Jul 16, 2014
Messages
7
Ignition sw for outboard w/maginito. basically OFF position makes contact and grounds the ignition unlike automotive.
Also Push to choke. Any hole in the floor can be an indication of much greater problems such as rot. Rotten stringer, rotten transom.
yes the hole foor will need replacing i plan on doing that after i see if the motor is good hopefully i can get the correct ignition switch
 

1nanoman

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Jul 16, 2014
Messages
7
toke some more pictures today

IMG_20140717_191647.jpg IMG_20140717_191537.jpg IMG_20140717_191530.jpg
 

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NYBo

Admiral
Joined
Oct 23, 2008
Messages
7,107
Welcome to iboats!:welcome:

Based on those pictures, you are in store for a major renovation/repair job. I would determine the extent of the rot before sinking any money into the boat; you may decide you are in over your head, skill-wise, money-wise, or both.
 

1nanoman

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Jul 16, 2014
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7
Welcome to iboats!:welcome:

Based on those pictures, you are in store for a major renovation/repair job. I would determine the extent of the rot before sinking any money into the boat; you may decide you are in over your head, skill-wise, money-wise, or both.
yeah i agree that's why my main concern is the motor if the motor is good i can replace the floor i am a handy man so i think it will be ok if i can get the motor started i called a couple of dealerships and hopefully i can get the switch and see if motor is good
 

kjsAZ

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 15, 2012
Messages
433
I'm pretty sure that you have to replace all stringers, the entire transom and just to relax a bit you will do the deck....

Boats rot from the bottom up and if the deck is in such a bad shape you will see a lot of black wood mush underneath!
 
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further

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
1,034
+1... That's for sure gonna be a complete gut/resto on your hands. It's quite the job. I had a maxum 1700, very similar construction to your bayliner and it looked similar to yours. This is when I thought I could get away with doing just the sole. Until this... Messy job I ended up coming across another boat I couldn't pass up so scrapped the maxum after all that work, cut my losses and parted everything of value out. Good luck
 

H20Rat

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
5,204
That boat looks rough... There is absolutely no way the stringers and transom in that are solid, they are completely turned to mush... Big resto job for a bayliner with a force on the back, I'd be looking elsewhere probably.
 

1nanoman

Cadet
Joined
Jul 16, 2014
Messages
7
That boat looks rough... There is absolutely no way the stringers and transom in that are solid, they are completely turned to mush... Big resto job for a bayliner with a force on the back, I'd be looking elsewhere probably.
transom is solid had a buddy look at it to be honest not my main priority need see the motor purr lol my main concern
 
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