4.3LX Thunderbolt IV missing after engine rebuild

4.3mudder

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Jul 17, 2014
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Googled the hell out of this and I think hardly anyone has ran across this issue. Engine ran fine before being taken out of the boat. Block had a crack in the lifter valley. Rebuilt short block. Heads checked. New wires, plugs, sensor in distributor, cap, and substituted coil. Timing set to 8 degrees BTDC. First start up. Engine misses like crazy. Can put a timing light on random plug wires and watch the plug not fire occasionally. And the higher the RPM's the worse it gets. I substituted back old parts and does the same thing. Thought maybe a ground issue. Wires going from block to ground ok. And the wire from the dist sensor to block is ok. Plug wires are on the correct cylinders. I did the mercruiser troubleshoot flow chart and the last thing I came up with was the sensor in the distributor. The coil on the block arcs from the center post wire to the pos and neg smaller terminals. At this point I'm thinking of going with the AC Delco voyager dist kit and being done with this because the only thing it leads to is the ignition module on the back of the dist being bad. I know most posts I see on here if it's bad it doesn't run at all and mine does. So wth
 

4.3mudder

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Why thanks! Yes it's the 6 blade rotor I'm using. Even swapped the old one. Forgot to mention as well, tach wire was taken off and still nothing.
 

Firenut1

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Jun 30, 2013
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Do compression test could be stuck valve, or bad plug, was carb rebuilt, how old is the gas?
 

4.3mudder

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Engine was just rebuilt heads checked over. Carb was overhauled as well while engine was out. Has is roughly 3 weeks old
 

4.3mudder

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Shift interrupt switch has been disconnected as well. I have had a few times while launching would backfire once and that was it. Ignition module was taken off. Back side was cleaned and dielectric grease applied and reinstalled on distributor.
 

Firenut1

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Jun 30, 2013
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Ok this is going to sound crazy, had a friend with similar problem, he replaced the ignition switch, ran fine until low oil buzzer came on, now he has a bad oil leak. Not all are the same just a suggestion.
 

Volphin

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Lets start with the basics. Is the distributor stabbed in the proper orientation? Is the cap installed correctly? Wires in the proper order? Rotor seated correctly?
I went for an aftermarket coil once. Caused the same issues. Try using your old coil and ensure that it is properly wired.
 

4.3mudder

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Yes. Dist is correct firing order and in the correct position. Even tried 180 out and it did not start at all. Went over all plug wires making sure they are going to the right cylinder. Even disconnected one at a time and could tell the change in the tone of the engine. Rotor sits tight on the shaft. Cap is seated down through all 4 mounting points. This has been hours of troubleshooting. Everything has been gone through and changed besides the ignition module on the distributor. Even old parts were swapped just to see if maybe something I bought was bad
 

jester31

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Aug 28, 2014
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It sounds like your coil has a hairline crack in it, if it's arcing between poles. Remember (for Example) when you put your timing light on #1 wire, it will fire once, then on the next crank revolution, it will have no spark, Because it is firing on #4 wire! Each crank revolution it is the alternate cylinder the Dizzy is firing on, So, don't let that distract you!
 
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4.3mudder

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Decided to go with the AC Delco voyager kit. Hope for it to come in by the weekend. Will do some more hunting and trying other things.
 

jester31

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If you're getting cross arcing at the coil, there is too much resistance somewhere from that point on? Are you using AC-MR43T (resistor plugs)?
Resistor plugs will cut down, or stop any crossfiring, or arcing.
 

4.3mudder

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Yes. MR 43T. Even substituted the MR44t that I had in it before hand not knowing. The MR44T I had in it right before I found out about the crack in the block and ran ok. When I had the engine out I replaced them with the correct ones which were the MR43T. I have checked the plug as well and they are all ok. For the hell of it. I pulled out number 1 and 5 cylinder. 1 was normal black was too much fuel / not the right ignition. Hooked the timing light to both of those wires going to those plugs and would get the same amount of miss.
 

achris

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If you're getting cross arcing at the coil, there is too much resistance somewhere from that point on? Are you using AC-MR43T (resistor plugs)?
Resistor plugs will cut down, or stop any crossfiring, or arcing.

Resistor plugs are for radio frequency noise suppression. Nothing to do with arcing or cross-firing.
 

4.3mudder

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I have been waiting for aches or Don to chime in. I noticed most of the post I read about this issue they always have something good to say :)
 

4.3mudder

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If there was a way to actually test the ignition module/amplifier. And I'm not talking about the flow chart. Actually bench testing the module.
 

Bondo

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I have been waiting for aches or Don to chime in. I noticed most of the post I read about this issue they always have something good to say :)

Ayuh,.... Gonna be a long wait,..... Don passed away just over a year ago,.....

I wish I had yer answer, but I don't,....
 

NHGuy

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You are probably right replacing the ignition. I suggest you run through the troubleshooting flow chart. It can confirm your suspicion that the module is bad. Do you have access to it? Or do you want it?
 
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