Rotary Steering Failure

[NicholasP]

I was about 1/2 mile from the boat launch on my way back from fishing when I felt a pop and was then unable to steer (steering wheel was loose and I wasn't able to turn the engine). Should I just order a new cable or is there any thing I should check first? When I turn the steering wheel the smaller length of cable (i.e. the one that doesn't go to the motor turns). I have attached pics of the steering area behind the wheel. Any thoughts on what steps I should take next would be most appreciated.

Thanks
Nick

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,..... Odds are ya need a complete Helm, 'n Cable Kit,......

 

[64osby]

There is a small hole shown in the pic just above where the cable enters the housing. You should have a pin or clip that needs to be inserted in the hole to allow the cable to be removed. Press very hard.

Sometimes the cable will slide out, other times turning the wheel so the cable feeds to the motor will allow it to pop out. If if comes out check the cable. If it's good you need a new rotary unit. If the helm is bad buy a whole new system like Bondo said.

 

[NicholasP]

Why would I need a rotary unit if the cable is bad? Couldn't I just buy a new cable? Just trying to understand what could've happened...

 

[crb478]

You would not have to get a new rotary unit if it is only the cable, but from the pictures everything looks a little old. While you are in there it would be a good time to replace the whole system and not worry about it for a long time.

 

[louiefl]

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...-trouble-on-a-94-starcraft?t=571891&p=6016150 Scroll down to my post and look for pictures of what can cause a system to lock up. In my case, it was a broken tooth in the helm caused by me forcing a cable that was gummed up and rusty. They are not serviceable. The guys above are right that it makes sense to get a new helm and cable. Disconnect the cable from the engine and the helm and see if the wheel spins and the engine rotates. If not, there's your problem. Let us know how it goes.

 

[NicholasP]

No Title

Ok, so step one is to remove the cable. I've pushed down on the button (purple circle) and have tried to unwind the cable out of there using the steering wheel (per the advice ithe post you linked to, louief) However I can only wind the cable in a way that more cable comes out the side where the excess cable is -- the other way seems blocked. Is this right? I've also tried pulling on the cable sheath (red arrow) with no results. Please hang with me, I want to figure this out!

Thanks
Nick

 

[64osby]

If you disconnect it from the motor and it is still "blocked" it is trash. It should rotate free in both directions.

 

[Frank Acampora]

You heard a "pop" so something broke. At this point it doesn't matter what. A new cable will cost about 100 bucks a complete helm will cost around 150 unless you go higher end. It makes sense to buy a complete helm and be done with it. You don't know the condition of the rotary helm so why chance putting a new cable into a defective unit. As far as cost: Compare it to a tank of gas or a day on the water.

And check the iboats store for helms and prices.

 

[NicholasP]

I get that I need a new steering package, but I'm trying to get the old one off in one piece so I can figure out the right length of cable to order

 

[Greg Mrozinski]

Nicholas,

You might have to cut it with a pair of bolt cutters to get it out and then measure it. Be careful though because the total length is not necessarily the size you buy. Check the vendor websites for measuring requirements before hand. There should also be a cable number on the shething that could be cross referenced.

 

[NicholasP]

No Title

So my next question is I am able to unscrew the cable somewhat by the motor, but I'm unsure as to whether the motor is resting on this tube? When I move the nut (A), the tube also rotates (B). Should I continue to unscrew this?

 

[louiefl]

While pressing the pin in that hole, you should be able to unwind the cable even if the cable is frozen. Have someone push the pin in while you pull the black outer sheath. Even if you broke a tooth and jammed the inside cable, the outer sheath should at least come loose. At the engine, the tilt tube should not rotate. Try cutting across the nut flats (don't cut the threads below) and then turn it - the nut should split. Also, try tightening the nuts on both ends of the tilt tube and then have a wrench on the tilt tube nut closest to the steering nut. Try spraying it with PB Blaster and come back to it later. Worst case scenario is using a hacksaw or bolt cutter to cut through the outer housing on both ends. You can then remove the helm and have a little more room at the engine. Just don't bugger up the tilt tube - that isn't a fun repair.

 

[NicholasP]

So what you're telling me is that although the tube is rotating, that's not desirable. Ok...I'll what you've suggested and post back. I want to focus on the engine side because the steering cable sheath is pretty well jammed into the steering console (i.e .not lots of play there)

 

[bilge rat jim]

So my next question is I am able to unscrew the cable somewhat by the motor, but I'm unsure as to whether the motor is resting on this tube? When I move the nut (A), the tube also rotates (B). Should I continue to unscrew this?

Tighten the lock nuts on the tilt tube, and then try loosening the cable nut. You will probably have to un-bolt the outboard from the transom and move it to the port side (or lift it) to get the old cable out and the new cable in.

 

[NicholasP]

No Title

Update: It ended up that I needed to just keep unscrewing the metal screw where the cable goes into the motor and I was able to get pull that part of the cable free. At no time did I need to remove the motor. I was unable to pull the cable free of the rotary steering column and I ended up taking a dremel to it to cut it loose. After that, pretty straight forward as far as the install (though the steering wheel was really on there, ended up soaking it w/PB Blaster + hitting the bolt coming from the rotary column with a hammer while prying on it with a crowbar -- that did the trick).

One thing though, the cable rod (yellow arrow; additional picture of it as well) that is screwed into the motor for steering is really dry after even after I have worked it back and forth. It just has old grease on it. I put grease into the grease fittings (red circles) until it comes out (blue arrow). Am I doing something wrong here? Is this normal?

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... That's the end of the cable yer takin' out,.... It's Inside the tilt tube,....

The grease fittin's grease the motor housin', Outside the tilt tube,....

It ended up that I needed to just keep unscrewing the metal screw where the cable goes into the motor and I was able to get pull that part of the cable free.

Huh,..??

 

[NicholasP]

Not the best reference, but when I said 'metal screw' I was talking about the big shiny nut that screws into motor housing (you can see it in the far left of the first pic I posted). My question now is the tube that the cable is in, that slides back and forth when you turn the motor, how do I grease that? Or should I? Like I said above, it's totally dry....