Sea Eagle SR14 RIK + 30hp Mercury Two Stroke

[Sea Rider]

The procedure is inverse. Seat lightly mix screw head on carb base, turn screw CCW some turns, check Merc's carb mix adjusting screw specs as a starting point. Can go from there balancing idle if in need. It's better fo adjust carb idle to slight rich side than to lean side.

Happy Boating

 

[alanfox55]

Well guys I got it fixed!!!!! Today I cleaned the fuel filter and housing real good and did a careful link and sync. My video is showing 1600 rpm's steady and sounding right on so now I think/know my tach is reading wrong. This motor is listed as a 12 pole and the tach is set to a 12 pole,any other setting I'll get an even higher reading so now I have to figure out what the problem there is. I ordered a Tiny Tach to compare and to make double sure I'm correct before I try putting it into gear.
https://youtu.be/hlZZIfElu40

 

[Sea Rider]

Have you adjusted mixture screw to factory specs ? If so, rpm sounds bit high, adjust idle screw for tach to read 1000 rpm, will engine die ? If installed tach is not compatible with engine will read anything.

Happy Boating

 

[alanfox55]

Mixture screw is 1 1/2 out as to factory suggested starting point. It might not die at 1000 not sure,I adjusted it down to where it sounded and idled best.I'll get the Tiny Tach tomorrow then I can compare,if it's the same I'll do some adjusting. The tach adjusts for different poles so I don't know why it wouldn't work with mine but I'll call their tech department today.

 

[Sea Rider]

What's the factory idling rpm specs for that engine at neutral and at gear ? Lower your rpm to 1 K with that tach as a reference and check if engine dies when gearing forward. One story is at gear on muffs, other different one at open waters at load pushing boat.

Happy Boating

 

[alanfox55]

The specs for idle is 700-800 in forward gear. I can't find it now but I recall a warning that says do not shift into gear above 900.I won't touch anything until I get the Tiny Tach tomorrow to compare.If the tach is off Faria said to send it in an they'll fix it. If it's correct then I'll have to do some more adjusting. Personally I think the tach is reading twice as high as it should but we'll see. Just out of curiosity I downloaded a motor like mine at idle on You Tube and compared the sound to mine on my phone at the same time...sounded the same to me. Also out of curiosity I put a RPM checking app on my phone and compared to other engines understanding it's limitations. It was the same as the motor on You Tube and it would read lower to engines that sounded lower and higher on ones that sounded higher. I thought it was reading about 200 RPM's low which would put mine at half of what my tach was saying and what I'm suspecting. This is all very interesting and educational to me being I knew nothing about outboards three years ago when I started my boat project. Maybe it's not such a bad thing it's taken me longer than what I would like to get me in the water but I've learned a lot during that time. We shall see how this all turns out. Here's the link to the motor on You Tube.
https://youtu.be/YZAr6k3_dFk

 

[alanfox55]

I fixed my OB. Honestly could not tell what did it. I think it was the main jet because it was stuck when i tried to pull it out. cleaned both jets and it seems to be working good now. Alan, i recommend trying you mixure screw. open it all the way then start tightening until you get the correct idle speed/rpm

It sounds good. I personally would rather test in a barrel than on muffs.You don't have to worry about forgetting to turn on the water and it makes much less of a mess when your not on pavement.

 

[Sea Rider]

Don't worry won't blow gear box if shifting at 900 real world revs, when at gear revs will be lowered while engine is at load. Personally don't like barrel testing due to not beeing able to run engine at higher revs while at gear, will overflow barrel. Others issue is the oily water disposal and barrel cleaning after testing. Muffs all the way for me.

Can you imagine an idiot overheating engine while conducting a break in period on a barrel for extended hours. He was literally "cooling" engine with warm water.

Happy Boating

 

[alanfox55]

No Title

Don't worry won't blow gear box if shifting at 900 real world revs, when at gear revs will be lowered while engine is at load. Personally don't like barrel testing due to not beeing able to run engine at higher revs while at gear, will overflow barrel. Others issue is the oily water disposal and barrel cleaning after testing. Muffs all the way for me.

Can you imagine an idiot overheating engine while conducting a break in period on a barrel for extended hours. He was literally "cooling" engine with warm water.

Happy Boating

No I can't imagine anyone doing that to a new engine.

My first engine was a 1972 Johnson I used up to about 3 years ago,if you can believe that,and you couldn't use muffs on those motors but a barrel of water worked pretty good for that I thought.

I had that motor for three years,I paid $300 for it and it always started first pull even after sitting for the winter with non treated gas because I knew nothing about treating gas,running it dry or draining carbs before storing. I knew nothing about impellers so never thought about changing mine. A credit to me though I did pay attention to how much water was coming out the exhaust and would've learned about outboard water pumps if I thought there was a problem. I can't believe that engine never needed a new impeller. Maybe the former owner had changed it just before I got it...don't know.

 

[Guest]

It sounds good. I personally would rather test in a barrel than on muffs.You don't have to worry about forgetting to turn on the water and it makes much less of a mess when your not on pavement.

it was not muffs it was a garbage can

 

[Guest]

The specs for idle is 700-800 in forward gear. I can't find it now but I recall a warning that says do not shift into gear above 900.I won't touch anything until I get the Tiny Tach tomorrow to compare.If the tach is off Faria said to send it in an they'll fix it. If it's correct then I'll have to do some more adjusting. Personally I think the tach is reading twice as high as it should but we'll see. Just out of curiosity I downloaded a motor like mine at idle on You Tube and compared the sound to mine on my phone at the same time...sounded the same to me. Also out of curiosity I put a RPM checking app on my phone and compared to other engines understanding it's limitations. It was the same as the motor on You Tube and it would read lower to engines that sounded lower and higher on ones that sounded higher. I thought it was reading about 200 RPM's low which would put mine at half of what my tach was saying and what I'm suspecting. This is all very interesting and educational to me being I knew nothing about outboards three years ago when I started my boat project. Maybe it's not such a bad thing it's taken me longer than what I would like to get me in the water but I've learned a lot during that time. We shall see how this all turns out. Here's the link to the motor on You Tube.
https://youtu.be/YZAr6k3_dFk

i remember reading a post from someone saying that putting it into gear on muffs can do damage to the lower unit. Not sure how true that is

 

[Sea Rider]

I remember reading a post from someone saying that putting it into gear on muffs can do damage to the lower unit. Not sure how true that is

That's not true, it's a tech fallacy. You could over rev engine without load at high rpm on muffs, other than that, no issues. I usually squirt carbon remover products through carb while engine is on. with muffs, geared and revving at 2 K rpm with no sweat.

Been flushing engines for years after each outing while on muffs at idle, fast idle rpm while geared with no gear case nor impeller issues whatsoever. Besides engine revs more even when geared than non geared when at idle, fast idle rpm. Check for yourself.

Happy Boating

 

[alanfox55]

I've had a few issues with muffs I wouldn't have in water.The first time I started it the hose had high pressure and the tell tale looked good.The second time,not realized by me,it was on a long hose and low pressure.My mine was on other engine issues other than first looking at tell tale and didn't notice water not coming out. After that not a good water stream so I didn't start it again until recently after I rebuilt the water pump.I had always planned on doing that and it's a good thing I did because everything needed to be replaced. Now I just have to make sure the water is on before starting because sometimes when I stop the motor to do something I'll turn off the water and sometimes I don't.So I've been training myself to always double check before starting and always watch the tell tale first thing.I also bought a new muff that has two water outlets rather than one just to make me feel better about it getting enough water.

 

[Chopperbill]

My muff directions said make sure there is water coming out the rubber cups before starting motor. First time I started my new motor I did it in a bucket. Motor wasn't pissing. Good thing I noticed. Wouldn't happen with muffs.
My Suzuki has a clean out port that you can screw a hose into. Actually I don't need a bucket or muffs.

 

[alanfox55]

My muff directions said make sure there is water coming out the rubber cups before starting motor. First time I started my new motor I did it in a bucket. Motor wasn't pissing. Good thing I noticed. Wouldn't happen with muffs.
My Suzuki has a clean out port that you can screw a hose into. Actually I don't need a bucket or muffs.

Yeah I have the same directions in my service manual and the first and second times I ran it on muffs it was coming out the sides. The first time it had a good stream but the second time after I ran it for ten seconds with no water coming out it did not look good at all. One of the problems was my friend did not turn the water all the way up but probably the real reason was the pump needed a rebuild. Thankfully I got the kit and not just the impeller before I started on it.Needless to say when I got it apart it did not look good including a couple of tines cracked and almost coming apart on the impeller. It's been a real education working with this motor and getting the boat ready too.

I got my Tiny Tach today. I went right out and hooked it up but didn't start it because I was working in the sun and it's 90 degrees out. I came in to cool off and now I'm waiting until I'm in the shade. I mounted it on the transom for now but might have to move it to the motor handle so I can see it better. One issue I found when I was installing the tach was that the end of one of the spark plug wires had been hitting my hood when I took the hood off or put it on and the end that attached to the motor was not attached all the way.I pushed it all the way in and arranged the plug wires better so they wouldn't hit.Having a spark plug boot coming off can't be a good thing when your trying to get your engine running properly I think we can all agree. I was going to check my spark next and would've seen it then too. We shall see if that improves things or not.I'm also going to change my fuel filter today because the one that's in there doesn't look like it's the correct one for the filter assembly. I don't know if the new one I have is the correct one ether but I'll try it and see anyway. I'll give a full report on everything later on tonight.

 

[alanfox55]

Well guys I installed the Tiny Tach and to my surprise and dismay it and my main tach are reading the same! I'm going to post my new video and two others of like engines at idle...you tell me if the rpm doesn't sound the same. I am completely stumped right now ahhhhhh!

https://youtu.be/Y5Xq9u8Glyk
https://youtu.be/YZAr6k3_dFk
https://youtu.be/U8R0uV61R7c

Here's something I remembered I'm running a 50:1 premix right now because I'm not sure if the oil injection is working. Would that mess up my carb settings and not allow me to idle lower? If the injection is working it means I'm running a 25:1 ratio total.Thing is it sure doesn't smoke like a 25:1 does it?

 

[Chopperbill]

My 4 stroke idles at 825-850 can't remember exactly. I'm sure your 2 stoke should idle faster but I seriously doubt twice as fast.

 

[alanfox55]

Yeah me too.It doesn't sound like it's at 1500 to you?

 

[Chopperbill]

Nope doesn't sound that fast to me either. Probably would sound slower Immersed in water. Sure tachs are wired correctly? My motor shakes some at idle like yours does I sure at 1600 rpm it would smooth out, mine does. Sound like it speeds up when you put it in gear, that could be throttle cable adjustment.

 

[Sea Rider]

If both tachs are well pole and firing sequence adjusted to then revs are real world rpm. 1500 rpm are too much for idle, lower them to 1100-1200 at the most. Have an issue lowering them ? Can lower them to a point where engine doesn't die when shifting forward and maintains good idle just for this dry engine test.

Some issues :

-Induction tachs have erratic rpm lectures at idle, even ones when openning throttle.
-2 stroke engines doesn't like to idle at neutral for long time periods, will foul plugs.
-If with fouled plugs already engine will idle erratically or not even.
-2 stroke loves to rev as if you were stealing the combo.
-Running with more oil won't mess your carb settings nor produce higher revs, will just smoke more.

Bear in mind that if self oiling system is "not disconnected" and using pre mixed 50:1 fuel/oil ratio in tank you're not at 50:1 ratio, are slight under, will need to add what the system is self adding to the pre mixed 50:1 ratio, so fouling plug faster than at 50:1 while at idle.

Happy Boating