Bellows Brand Question?

[jakehorton15]

Good afternoon everybody, Im looking to change my bellows once warmer weather comes around due to a progressive leak ive had since i bought the boat early last summer. Its for a 1994 Bryant 180 with 4.3l and alpha one gen two outdrive. Im on kind of a budget being a college student and all so OEM is just kind of out of the question, I know it would go on easier and may be "better quality" but owell. Ive narrowed my searching so far down to two brands...SEI (sterndrive engineering inc) and Tungsten Marine. These are both in the budget and Ive read nothing but good reviews on both for the most part. Either brand should be fine for my use and short Kentucky boating season. So I just wanted to see if anyone here on iboats had any experience with either of these brands or both and could recommend them or not. Thanks alot, Jake.

 

[Lou C]

I don't think a Merc OE bellows is going to break you. It is a critical part like an impeller. What are we talking, $20 different in price?
I use some aftermarket parts but use OE parts in critical applications. Your driveshaft bellows is about as critical as it gets. It leaks you get water in the boat, you rust up your gimble bearing, ujoints and driveshaft splines. Then you get to spend over a grand to fix that. Make sense?

 

[bilge rat jim]

I've probably changed hundreds of bellows over the years, and honestly- I don't find any difference between OEM and aftermarket, except the price. Actually, the transom seal kit from SM is a more complete kit. Both OEM and aftermarket should easily last 5 years, which is the recommended change-out period,

 

[achris]

... due to a progressive leak I've had since I bought the boat early last summer. ....

You're going to be changing more than the bellows. Once water gets in, then if you're lucky and attend to it immediately you could save quite a few things. But as you've left it the likeihood is that you are going to need to replace the gimbal bearing and uni-joints as a minimum. You could also be up for a repair on the yoke if the water has sat on the surface and rusted it...

 

[bilge rat jim]

You're going to be changing more than the bellows. Once water gets in, then if you're lucky and attend to it immediately you could save quite a few things. But as you've left it the likeihood is that you are going to need to replace the gimbal bearing and uni-joints as a minimum. You could also be up for a repair on the yoke if the water has sat on the surface and rusted it...

Unless it's the shift cable bellows that's leaking- but I wouldn't call that "progressive"- it usually leaves your seat cushions floating by the next morning . Regardless, it's always a good idea when doing a transom re-seal, to replace the gimbal bearing and the shift cable at the same time. (and inspect the yoke).

 

[jakehorton15]

I'll definitely be changing out the gimble bearing just since im already in there. And plan to inspect the ujoints and everything once it is apart. Being that its my buddies boat not mine personally I havent had much control over how things are treated until now so im just looking for some information for him. I havent been able to find an OEM kit for any less than $180 as opposed to about $90 for the above mentioned kits. I just couldnt see an aftermarket kit lasting any less time than an OEM being that it will be regularly serviced now that hes the owner. Thanks for the responses so far guys.

 

[flipbro]

It sounds like your already convinced on aftermarket and if thats what you can afford at the time its better then leaving it or not getting out. Ive used mallory kit once when things were tight it lasted two years and was a pain in the a $$ to get on lol but no matter what kit you buy unless its oem.Plan on getting a oem water pick up hose cause the aftermarket ones are just to lite and kink easly. So if its all you can afford it will do the job just keep in mind if its because your cheap trying to save a penny may cost you a dollar

 

[achris]

I've been a marine mech since the late 80s, and I can say from experience that in most cases you get what you pay for. Rubber items very much fall into the category... The best transom re-seal kit is OEM. Yes, you pay more for it initially, but it will save you in the long term. They are also a lot easier to fit as the rubber is not quite as stiff. The first (and last) non-genuine bellows I put on took me the better part of an hour to fit (that was JUST the bellows), the OEMs take me about 10 minutes. And yes, I have done hundreds of them! Same goes for water pump impellers, and as the 'savings' on that item is less than $5, why would you not use genuine?

So, with that all in mind, here's the part numbers you need.

Transom seal kit (3 bellows, gasket kit and a gimbal bearing) 30-803099T1
Shift cable (without bellows) -865436A02

You are also going to need to look very closely at the uni joints and the yoke where it goes through the seal at the front of the drive....

Chris.......

 

[jakehorton15]

I definitely agree with what you guys are telling me, Ive been working on cars since I was 16 and typically go with OEM when it comes to major and critical parts, however Im not the one paying for the parts so Illdo my best to convince the owner that OEM will be the way to go. I guess aftermarket will do for a few seasons and expect a little more difficult time with the install if we do end up going that route.

 

[UncleWillie]

As long as you have it apart, replace the Shift bellows at the same time.
The rubber is likely just as old and will fail in the reassembly process.
Be sure to check the gimbal bearing and the U-Joints.

And seeing how the engine hasn't been aligned in years... it is time for that also!

And once everything is all back together, remember to keep the drive in the DOWN Position at all times except while moving the boat over land.
Storing with the drive in the UP position is very hard on the bellows.
Next time you are at your buddies house, be sure to scold him if the drive is UP!