Advise on stringer quote

[jigngrub]

What is the width of your transom cap? The transom cap width determines your transom thickness. That 1/2" stuff might be something a previous owner slapped on there to try and "fix" the rotten/weak transom.

 

[Dftoro]

No Title

Not sure I will have to check but in this pic you can see how much of Gap there is.

 

[jigngrub]

Measuring would be best, I can't really tell anything about those little pics on my computer screen.

 

[Woodonglass]

Based on this picture...

If the Blue area was filled with resin filler and the red outlined area is where the NEW wood transom "Could" Fit if you built it that way and still allow the boat cap to fit over it then I'd build it solid so it could fit without filling that gap with a bunch of resin filler as it was done before. That's typical for many of these boats from the factory and I don't really know why. I believe if you take careful measurements and fabricate the transom to fit the cap you'll have a much better transom in the long run. Make it the thickness that the cap dictates. Should be close to 1.5". How big is your motor?

 

[jc55]

From the pics, is that a piece of the splash pan already cut off from the cap of the boat with the two upper mounting bolts of the motor? If that's the case, You can use two layers of 3/4" because you'll have to remold the splash pan (assuming nothing else interferes). I did that on my Sport craft and now have a thicker transom.

 

[Dftoro]

that's exactly what I did I could not separate the cap unless I cut it out. . Since I will have to glass it in after, I go with what was suggested two pieces of 3/4 cut the same size. Thanks guys.

 

[Dftoro]

I bought some 3/4 arauco ply to cut out my stringers. I am thinking of using 1708 for the glassing, I'll be tabbing in the transom and deck but what would be the best layup for the stringers giving its 3/4 thickness.
1. Tabbing and then capping them
Or
2. Trying to go up and over in one shot.

 

[Woodonglass]

This...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms is how I recommend doing it.

 

[Dftoro]

Cut the stringers out today. I will be storing the pieces till the end of the month until I make some room. , I would like to soak them in poly from now should I use waxed or unwaxed.

Thanks

 

[Woodonglass]

Unwaxed.

 

[ondarvr]

I would like to soak them in poly from now.

Thanks

What exactly do you mean by this?

Don't put any resin on them until right before you plan to glass them in place.

 

[Dftoro]

What I meant was, that some one from work suggested coating them to avoid the ply from drying out and having the edges separate. Or will a month left alone be okay and coat just before glassing.

 

[jbcurt00]

Not w/ out any CSM too. Poly resin isn't used alone, except to wet out the plywood just before the 1st CSM is applied, and then it's primarily to keep the plywood or CSM from wicking resin away from the other surface, starving the lamination of resin which makes it a weak lamination that's poorly bonded to the plywood.

 

[ondarvr]

What I meant was, that some one from work suggested coating them to avoid the ply from drying out and having the edges separate. Or will a month left alone be okay and coat just before glassing.

I didn't go back and read to see what plywood you purchased, but it should have been dry when you got it, if it falls apart sitting in your garage for a month or so it's not good for anything but fire wood. Not something you would want to use in a boat.

 

[Dftoro]

Great, thanks for the tips guys. I have some random questions that will help myself decide my plan of attack.

The original setup had a 1 1/4 pvc running the length of the boat with an opening above the deck and exiting at the bilge.

Isn't the deck supposed to be completely sealed ?

Does that pvc add any strength?

Can I eliminate It and add limber holes draining to the bilge?

If I leave it out there will be a channel that can lead to the bilge area.