more ???? gas tank install this time

[bob johnson]

so I cant help but think I don't want metal to metal contact with my gas tank and the ribs.. seems like if it isn't super solid, it will rub and might produce a hole.

what is it that you guys are using to cushion the tank from the ribs...if any

and do most of you leave an access opening for the tank, or at least the one end with the sender .

I will have to figure out everything that needs to go under the floor before I start to cut and fit my floor....

it is taboo to run electricals under the floor? or are they all run along the gunnels ???

BOB

 

[GA_Boater]

Bob - A favor please. Can you post your questions in your project thread? http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...starting-my-22-ft-v5-holiday-project-question

It's getting hard to follow along. To give a good answer, we have to look at another thread. The project thread can easily be re-titled if you want.

Is the bottom of the tank flat or V'ed? That makes a difference for tank cushioning.

For access, some of us have added one of those circular floor plates over the sender and others cut the floor so a removable panel gives access to the entire tank.

I prefer to to be able to get to wiring, so along the gunnel is my method. It isn't taboo to run the stuff under the floor, center consoles are like that, but if you have a wiring problem, what a pain.

 

[bob johnson]

I could, but surely some people that are not following my thread, that know the answer might reply, ...but just looking at my thread on a 22' starcraft Holiday, doesn't interest them...but they know the answer about a transom, or a gas tank....because that answer isn't specific to a 22' starcraft V5 Holiday!!!

these latest question are pretty generic....


BOB

 

[g0nef1sshn]

On deployments we would cut up real thick mud flaps and use strips of that when replacing fuel tanks. And Im talk huge tanks. Not that you may have those laying around, but a junk yard might.

 

[Watermann]

I used 3/8" thick neoprene strips but that was what the tank was already insulated with between the tank and the hull bottom. I cut the strips to fit on top of my ribs and secured them with 5200 so as to not fall off. Neoprene is the insulating material of choice for fuel tanks with boat builders due to how well it holds up There are some pretty good sets of CG regs on under deck boat fuel tanks you should check out right down to how much they can move in any direction once installed.

You can get any kind of neoprene your heart desires on Amazon.

It does get confusing when having multiple threads on one boat, think about the guy who comes along to read your resto thread and none of this info is there for them to read and help them out without searching long and hard for it. I don't like to knock the forum but it really isn't all that easy to search and have very good results.

 

[Watermann]

My Chief's tank is poly but here is what it looked like. You can see the neoprene on top of the rib and I riveted in AL hold downs on the deck supports in the recessed notches and put neoprene under them. Also forgot to mention that I put a deck plate over the top of the sender.

 

[horiconducker]

Do you have the original square tank? Mine had a piece of 1/2 plywood under it as a floor for the tank to sit on, no metal contact, so thats what i put back in. The aluminum cross members that go over the top of the tank and rivet to the stringers to hold the tank down did have rubber strips glued to them so there was no aluminum to aluminum contact. One thing i would for sure do differently if i had to do it again, is move the tank as far forward as i can. These boats need all the weight they can get up front to get that deep v to cut through the waves instead of pound over them. When we go fishing in summer its a rough ride, the bow just bounces. In fall hunting with 4 guys, 2 layouts, and 10 dozen deeks, and all other gear it rides GREAT!!!! Moving my tank forward about 3 feet is on my to do list one of these years.

 

[bob johnson]

Do you have the original square tank? Mine had a piece of 1/2 plywood under it as a floor for the tank to sit on, no metal contact, so thats what i put back in. The aluminum cross members that go over the top of the tank and rivet to the stringers to hold the tank down did have rubber strips glued to them so there was no aluminum to aluminum contact. One thing i would for sure do differently if i had to do it again, is move the tank as far forward as i can. These boats need all the weight they can get up front to get that deep v to cut through the waves instead of pound over them. When we go fishing in summer its a rough ride, the bow just bounces. In fall hunting with 4 guys, 2 layouts, and 10 dozen deeks, and all other gear it rides GREAT!!!! Moving my tank forward about 3 feet is on my to do list one of these years.

is your TANK A 53 GALLONG VERSION( LONG) and does it start where there is a hole in a stringer for the fuel fill ???
how many batteries do you have? from your video I can see one in the back.

bob

 

[horiconducker]

My tank is 50 gallons, yes quite long. The tank extends just a little ahead of the hole in the stringer for the fuel fill hose in the stock position. When i decide to move it forward, i will have to cut a new hole in the stringer for the fuel fill hose. I only have the one battery in the back.