Generic wiring diagaram question

[brandon369]

Hi guys, new boater here. I'm fixing up an older 14' Smokercraft I bought that was wired very poorly. I'm making a schematic off of the the generic boat diagram posted in the stickie. My question is how do I run the ground wires exactly? I'm confused because the switch/fuse panel I'm looking at appears to have a main ground wire on it, but I was thinking that all the ground wires connected to a ground bus bar and ran directly to the battery. Do i just leave the ground wire on the switch/panel alone and run all the ground wires to a ground bus bar and to the negative battery terminal? I included a picture of my schematic I'm working on. I tried to color code the wires. Dark blue for courtesy lights, gray for navigation lights, and brown for pumps. Thanks guys.

 

[gm280]

I'm not exactly sure what you're asking, but if your switch panel could have is indicator lights. And if so you have to supply a ground for them to work. But usually the best practice is to use a ground buss bar and run that to the negative battery terminal. JMHO!

 

[brandon369]

That clears it up for me to use a ground bus bar. The switch panel does have indicator lights so that explains the ground there as well. Thanks you very much kind sir. I was also wondering if I should run a switch to a cigarette lighter, or if I should just run an inline fuse on that wire and run it to a positive bus.

 

[gm280]

As for such things as cigarette lighters and such, that is you option. If you wire it hot all the time, you absolutely have to use an inline fuse or circuit breaker. But even if you wire it through a switch so you can control it, it still needs its own fuse or circuit breaker. Every circuit on you boat has to have some type fuse or breaker. That is just a safe way to wire things and prevent a fire or worst.... :thumb:

 

[GA_Boater]

Agree with gm280. Fuse or use a circuit breaker on every device The reason is if a voltage carrying wire chafes and shorts to the hull in a metal boat or anything grounded, the wire will destroy itself, sometimes with disastrous results. Fuses and circuit breakers are not to protect a device, they protect the wiring and the boat.

 

[brandon369]

Thank you for clearing that up for me guys. I will run it through a switch and fuse it as well. Safety is always first!

 

[brandon369]

I'm also redoing my floor from the old rotted plywood that was in it when I purchased it with removable slats made from cedar that I'm building right now. I would like my electrical boxes to kind of look nice, they don't have to be super fancy or anything, but I'm wondering what your guys opinions or recommendations may be. The gentleman at my local marine shop said the best switch box he's seen have been made out of aluminum from a hardware store. But me being a 23 year old with really minimal metal working skills, and this being my first boat project or even boat at that, I'm not sure if I should go that route. If I had like an instructable or could find a post to explain how to do it properly make an aluminum switch box i would, but I haven't stumbled upon one yet. What do you guys recommend? I'm just trying to get an idea of how to mount the fuse panel and switches to my boat. Like if I should build some type of box off of one of my cedar slats or mount one to my wall next to the rear bench seat where i operate my outboard.

 

[Grub54891]

The hardware store don't have marine rated fuse blocks. Look right here on I-boats,at the top,boat parts and accessorys. Go to the electrical section,search for fuse blocks or panels,take your pick!

 

[Grandad]

I'm also redoing my floor from the old rotted plywood that was in it when I purchased it with removable slats made from cedar that I'm building right now. I would like my electrical boxes to kind of look nice, they don't have to be super fancy or anything, but I'm wondering what your guys opinions or recommendations may be. The gentleman at my local marine shop said the best switch box he's seen have been made out of aluminum from a hardware store. But me being a 23 year old with really minimal metal working skills, and this being my first boat project or even boat at that, I'm not sure if I should go that route. If I had like an instructable or could find a post to explain how to do it properly make an aluminum switch box i would, but I haven't stumbled upon one yet. What do you guys recommend? I'm just trying to get an idea of how to mount the fuse panel and switches to my boat. Like if I should build some type of box off of one of my cedar slats or mount one to my wall next to the rear bench seat where i operate my outboard.

If you find a need for a box to mount switches in, I would recommend using a weatherproof, surface mount PVC box instead of metal. Smooth exterior, no corrosion, no conductivity, also available at hardware stores, though not typically used on boats. - Grandad

 

[brandon369]

The hardware store don't have marine rated fuse blocks. Look right here on I-boats,at the top,boat parts and accessorys. Go to the electrical section,search for fuse blocks or panels,take your pick!

I will definitely be using a marine rated fuse block. I will make sure to check out iboats store as well.

 

[brandon369]

If you find a need for a box to mount switches in, I would recommend using a weatherproof, surface mount PVC box instead of metal. Smooth exterior, no corrosion, no conductivity, also available at hardware stores, though not typically used on boats. - Grandad

That sounds like a great idea. I will look into that when I'm at the hardware store today. Would I rivet that to the side of the boat?

 

[brandon369]

So something like this? With a cover installed, than drill the holes thru the cover. Than I'm thinking silicone around the switch holes to keep it water resistant. Is that what your reccomending Grandad?

 

[Grandad]

So something like this? With a cover installed, than drill the holes thru the cover. Than I'm thinking silicone around the switch holes to keep it water resistant. Is that what your reccomending Grandad?

Hi Brandon, sorry to take so long to respond. Yes, that's the type of box I was referring to. They come in various width and depth dimensions. The type you linked to is designed for housedold sized switches and receptacles, but they are also available as pure junction boxes with cover screws in each corner. You can purchase a blank cover for each size and the covers usually come with a weatherproof seal and brass cover screws. I have used 3 of them (4" x 4") on my boat trailer where joints were unavoidable. In this application though, I actually drilled holes in the bottom to allow drainage since actually submerging these boxes is beyond their sealing ability. Within the confines of your boat, they should be fine. As far as mounting them, they often come with external "ears" or you could just drill new mounting holes and seal the mounting screws or rivets. Here's a picture of one on my trailer. - Grandad

 

[brandon369]

No worries about the time, I appreciate you even responding to me at all. That's a cool idea on a boat trailer. That's what I ended up buying was a 4" x 4" junction box. It will look pretty slick I think and do a good job of being water resistant. Thanks for helping me clear that issue up. Its very appreciated.