Project Compett

[JoshOnt]

Seeing every one on here posting about their projects I decided to look for a boat to give it a try and see what I can learn. I bought the hull for pretty cheap thinking that I would need to replace the transom and floor since they both looked a bit rough. Figured out them are both solid and the floor just needs paint. Transom on the other hand needs some work since it looks really bad cosmetically. It appears the transom was either replaced at some point or it was because the previous owner had a 150 hp when it was rated for 50 hp. I thought it was rated for 150 until today as I didn't think to really look at the plate other than to get the model off of it.

I have no experience with tools so I am kind of glad it is all solid but at the same time was looking forward to a complete rebuild. Oh well leave more of the budget to go into the finishes.

I have included some images I took over the weekend. Progress will be slow for the next month or so as I am doing some work on the trailer before trying to move the boat home. Any advice on cleaning up the transom and the peeling/cracking of the blue stuff there would be great, I have no idea short of just sanding the crap out of it and painting over it. Wondering if there is a better option.

http://i.imgur.com/OG9czpG.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/NmvhGi7.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/3LLIitE.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/SjtxKZV.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ZdBYqFw.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/cKXft0B.jpg

 

[JoshOnt]

Edit* Correction it says it is rated for 50 hp on a seperate plate that does not look to be original but I am taking that as max until I can find out what is actually is. Boat is 14' 2" and 78" wide so if that gives an idea of its max that would be good.

 

[Woodonglass]

Wow!!! There's not much left of her!!! The Metal Flake paint is totally gone and with metal flake there is not restoring it. The transom is Toast, and will need to be replaced!! This is a really good indication that the Stringers will also need to be replaced so in other words this will be a total restoration. Hopefully this is in your plan and budget. Prolly in the the range of $4 to 6K since you'll need to purchase a motor too.??? I'd guess 60 HP max for that little speed boat.:noidea:

 

[JoshOnt]

Wow!!! There's not much left of her!!! The Metal Flake paint is totally gone and with metal flake there is not restoring it. The transom is Toast, and will need to be replaced!! This is a really good indication that the Stringers will also need to be replaced so in other words this will be a total restoration. Hopefully this is in your plan and budget. Prolly in the the range of $4 to 6K since you'll need to purchase a motor too.??? I'd guess 60 HP max for that little speed boat.:noidea:

The transom while it looks bad is solid drilled 3 holes into it and it was solid. Same goes for the floor and stringers, used a stud finder to find the stringers and did a total of 4 holes for that and all came out good. There seems to be no rot anywhere. I was told this was a previous resto project that the guy died before he could finish and the son took and made it usable and didn't really finish the whole job. Just enough to take the kids out. Original plan was a complete rebuild but since everything seems safe and dry I will do a bit less. I am guessing it will run me $1-2k plus what ever I need to spend on motor and controls for it.

I will hopefully be replacing the motor i currently have ('77 mercury 50 hp) with a newer one with T&T as it is a pain not having it.

 

[Woodonglass]

Hmmm, well the aluminum plate, Bad looking woven roving patch on the back, rusty looking exposed motor mount holes and caulking on the transom sure look suspect to me. But you did the core samples so I leave it up to you. What locations did you do the samples? Stringers typically rot from the bottom up so drilling from the top down is not going to be all that reliable. I'm Really NOT trying to Bust your Bubble here but just trying to ensure that you understand how to truly and honestly inspect a boat and know what is going on structurally with it. You ARE on site and WE are not but from what I can see it does not look good. But...I've been wrong before!!!

 

[JoshOnt]

Hmmm, well the aluminum plate, Bad looking woven roving patch on the back, rusty looking exposed motor mount holes and caulking on the transom sure look suspect to me. But you did the core samples so I leave it up to you. What locations did you do the samples? Stringers typically rot from the bottom up so drilling from the top down is not going to be all that reliable. I'm Really NOT trying to Bust your Bubble here but just trying to ensure that you understand how to truly and honestly inspect a boat and know what is going on structurally with it. You ARE on site and WE are not but from what I can see it does not look good. But...I've been wrong before!!!

On the transom I did 1 hole about 1-2" above the bottom, 1 onto where the stud finder said a stringer was, and one on the inside near where the metal plate sits on the outside. For the stingers I did deep holes since I could not figure out how to test the bottom of then otherwise. I went maybe 3.5" deep for each of those, 1 at the back, 1 mid way up and 1 under the bow. If there are anymore tests I should do other than those areas let me know rather find out now I have to but than in a year. I did end up taking that metal plate off to check and see what was under it but have no pictures of that. The holes looked fine I think but not 100% on that. As for the fiberglass job far as I can tell it was just put on to thicken the back for that metal plate for I have not drilled into it. Wood shavings from near it were bone dry so I am guessing that means it is safe.

Is there any thing else I can do to make sure it is just cosmetic and not structural short of gutting it.

 

[Woodonglass]

Alrighty Then. I'd say you did as good as you could on the stringers. I'd prolly drill a few more along the bottom of the inside of the transom and 4-6 " up on the inside just to make sure and about 1" deep. If It all comes back light colored and dry then...Yeah you're prolly good to go. Just Not so good at doing glass work!!!! The Metal plate was just cosmetic and NOT for beefing up a week transom which a lot of people do!!!!

 

[JoshOnt]

Alrighty Then. I'd say you did as good as you could on the stringers. I'd prolly drill a few more along the bottom of the inside of the transom and 4-6 " up on the inside just to make sure and about 1" deep. If It all comes back light colored and dry then...Yeah you're prolly good to go. Just Not so good at doing glass work!!!! The Metal plate was just cosmetic and NOT for beefing up a week transom which a lot of people do!!!!

I will drill more then in about 2-3 weeks when I am going to remove the controls as I think I know where I can get a mercury. I don't intend to leave the glass work from the PO, ideas on how to go about fixing it? As for that metal plate yeah no really support there, it was .4-.5 cm thick. Also any ideas for how to go about fixing the metal flake paint? Sand it all off and paint it or is there a way to just fix the front section

 

[Woodonglass]

AS stated previously, once Metal Flake goes bad there's NO Fixing it. You gotta sand it off and re-Paint. The Bad Glass work will need to be sanded and attempted to be blended in as best as possible. That heavy woven roving weave is not gunna be easy to hide and may need to be completely ground off.

 

[JoshOnt]

AS stated previously, once Metal Flake goes bad there's NO Fixing it. You gotta sand it off and re-Paint. The Bad Glass work will need to be sanded and attempted to be blended in as best as possible. That heavy woven roving weave is not gunna be easy to hide and may need to be completely ground off.

Thanks looks like I will need a few tools in that case. Is there a decent cheap grinder you know of. I figure cheap will work since I am not going to be grinding much.

 

[Woodonglass]

I think this Bosch Grinder at Busy Bee would be your best deal...http://www.busybeetools.com/products...2in-bosch.html
Unless you can find a similar one for less money. Get a backup pad and use 24 grit resin coated discs. Make sure and wear a Full cover Tyvek suit and Respirator with Goggles and gloves. Fiberglass dust is NASTY stuff and you only get one set of Lungs and eyes!!!

DON'T be a DUMB KID like I WAS!!!!!:doh::nono:

 

[JoshOnt]

I think this Bosch Grinder at Busy Bee would be your best deal...http://www.busybeetools.com/products...2in-bosch.html
Unless you can find a similar one for less money. Get a backup pad and use 24 grit resin coated discs. Make sure and wear a Full cover Tyvek suit and Respirator with Goggles and gloves. Fiberglass dust is NASTY stuff and you only get one set of Lungs and eyes!!!

DON'T be a DUMB KID like I WAS!!!!!

Would normal glasses work or sun glasses? I am blind as a bat without them so I have never been able to do full face mask.