2006 Mercruiser 4.3L Relay just clicks but engine does not crank

[gbarbosa1982]

Issue:
Port side engine does not start. It clicks, but doesn?t crank.
I believe that it does not have a ?slave solenoid?, but a Relay instead. When I tried to turn on, the ?click? came from the relay, which I replaced, but the issue remains the same.

Items that I was able to check:
- Battery is fully charged
- Start Solenoid (attached to the starter) is functional - I was able to individually jump it and it moves
- Starter is functional - I was able to individually jump and it spins.
- Throttle is on neutral position.

If terminals A and B are jumped (pic attached), it cranks but wont start. If the ignition switch is held in the ?on? position and A and B are jumped again, the engine turns on, but if the jump is removed or the ignition switch is released, the engine dies.

Any ideas about the root cause?

 

[Bt Doctur]

you do indeed have a slave solenoid, locate it. From the description your missing the 12v at the purple wire.
test the orange lead of the alt for 12v
check for power at both sides of the 50A circuit breaker.
post the results

The reason it does what it does is because you are backfeeding power from A into B that goes back to the ign switch and is powering the purple wire.

 

[Fun Times]

you do indeed have a slave solenoid, locate it.

Starting with serial number range 0W650000 THRU 1A063239 + 'which = 2006ish+, Merc went to a relay system vs slave solenoid that we know so well....Even on V6 carbed engines...I'm assuming it's a carbed engine and not an MPI since it wasn't mentioned or a engine serial number wasn't provided.

gbarbosa1982, Do your dash gauges power up at first click key up? Have you ensured the shifter control handle is in neutral gear by moving the shifter back and forth a few times while holding the key over to start/crank?

What boat model do you have? By chance did this seem to happen after using any electrical devises such as a pump to inflate a raft, etc.?

Take your test light connected to ground and touch the yellow wire at terminal B of the engine start, have someone turn the key to start and see if the light powers up. Also use the test light at the back of key, while connected to ground. Touch all three wires at the back of the key. Red wire should have 12V all the time, Purple wire should get 12v at first key on position and engine crank position, then the yellow/red wire should get 12V at engine crank position of the key.

Next find the main wiring harness at the engine and give it a wiggle while holding the key over to start.
http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=7089370&d=1281290189

 

[gbarbosa1982]

Thank you very much for the postings.

The boat is a 2007 Sea Ray 280. There are 2 mercruiser 4.3L engines (2006). Serial numbers 0W662246 and 0W662233. The boat is located at dry storage in the marina, which can be launched at any time (unfortunately I can only be there during the weekends)

Going back to the issue:
When I turn the switch to "on" position, it beeps, the dash gauges light up, but I dont hear the usual sound of the "engine's electronics waking up", then when I turn the switch to the start position, I hear a click that I was able to check that comes from the relay (part number 882751A-1).

The engines have about 150 hours only, but 9 years old. So, following maintenance recommendations, I replaced the manifolds. In order to do so, shift cables were detached from the exhaust elbows. I was able to put everything back together and I turned the engine on after that for testing. The first try on port side, it just clicked (like the issue I am having now). Initially I though it was the battery. So, I changed the battery switch to use battery #2, so it turned on just fine. However, I had tested the other engine (starboard - which currently works fine) minutes before using battery #1 and it turned just fine. I did not pay attention to it at the time, but it is clear that it was not the battery. I guess I was lucky to make it work by changing the battery source.

The following weekend when I launched the boat for testing on the water (I had all batteries fully charged), I was surprised that I was not able to turn the port side on (having the issue described on the initial post).

So, maybe something related to the SWITCH ASSEMBLY, Shift Interupt (808009T10) or SWITCH ASSEMBLY, Gear Indicator (808009T11) since these are located close to the shift cables and it is something that would "kill" the engine?

PS: I checked/tested and the 50A circuit breaker seemed fine.

THANK YOU ALL FOR THE ATTENTION AND TIME DEVOTED REPLYING TO IT.

 

[Fun Times]

The boat is a 2007 Sea Ray 280. There are 2 mercruiser 4.3L engines (2006). Serial numbers 0W662246 and 0W662233.

The engines are MPI not carbureted so you'll have 3 relays and not just one relay...Plus you have a host of fuses up next to the ECM which would have been side mounted to the port exhaust manifold... Remove, inspect and reinstall all the fuses to ensure they are seated correctly and not blown out. Also make sure none of the wire pins going to the ECM haven't been backed out due to all the movement of the exhaust change. Carefully remove the plugs going to the ECM and inspect the wire pins haven't backed out of the connector just a little bit.

Also since you have two engines, you can try swapping all three relays to the other engine/s to see if the problem follows over with them.

When I turn the switch to "on" position, it beeps, the dash gauges light up, but I dont hear the usual sound of the "engine's electronics waking up", then when I turn the switch to the start position, I hear a click that I was able to check that comes from the relay (part number 882751A-1).

Sounds like maybe the fuel pump isn't turning on. Possibly either a bad fuel pump relay, fuse or wiring pulled out. Carefully pushing inward and lightly wiggling wires around the relays, fuses and ECM may help you find the issue.

I turned the engine on after that for testing.

The port engine started at first?

The first try on port side, it just clicked (like the issue I am having now). Initially I though it was the battery. So, I changed the battery switch to use battery #2, so it turned on just fine.

And the port engine started up when going to battery #2 as well?

However, I had tested the other engine (starboard - which currently works fine) minutes before using battery #1 and it turned just fine. I did not pay attention to it at the time, but it is clear that it was not the battery. I guess I was lucky to make it work by changing the battery source.

How many battery switches and batteries do you have on the boat? You could have a defective battery, battery switch or failing battery cables due to corrosion. Depending on how it's wired, one battery doesn't necessarily mean it will start both engines...So you'll need to keep that in mind in your testing's.

Maybe something related to the SWITCH ASSEMBLY, Shift Interupt (808009T10) or SWITCH ASSEMBLY, Gear Indicator (808009T11) since these are located close to the shift cables and it is something that would "kill" the engine?

The shift Interrupt on the engine shift plate would keep the engine from "starting" but not necessarily from "cranking" over. A misadjusted gear indicator switch wouldn't allow the engine to rev over 3500 - 3800 RPM.

PS: I checked/tested and the 50A circuit breaker.... seemed fine.

Did you test the circuit breaker by pushing in the red button or use a multimeter to see if you have 12 volts at both wires? Using a multimeter is best for what you're looking for.

THANK YOU ALL FOR THE ATTENTION AND TIME DEVOTED REPLYING TO IT.

You're welcome.

 

[Bt Doctur]

A shame you didn't mention the FI in the first post with a serial number. Follow fun times advice, locate the fuses and remove them for checking., don't just look at them.

 

[gbarbosa1982]

"Fun Times" and "Bt Doctur", thank you very much for your time.

I will check all advices over this coming weekend and will report back with my finds.

Specifically targeting the "Fun Time's" questions:

And the port engine started up when going to battery #2 as well?

Yes, the port side (which I am currently facing the issue) failed (just click) when I initially tried with battery #1, but worked when I changed the switch to battery#2. Two weeks later it is failing (just clicking) with both batteries.

How many battery switches and batteries do you have on the boat?

There are 3 batteries. One being the service battery (I believe).

Did you test the circuit breaker by pushing in the red button or use a multimeter to see if you have 12 volts at both wires? Using a multimeter is best for what you're looking for.

I did not check the 50A circuit breaker with the multimeter. I will.


All your help is much appreciated.
Brgs,

 

[gbarbosa1982]

Dear all,
I finally found out the issue. Everything indicates to a faulty 50A circuit breaker, (part number 865827T). I will buy a replacement and change it.

I want to thank you both again for the time spent sharing your knowledge and thoughts for possible causes of the issue I was facing. I learned a lot.

Thank VERY much!
​

 

[Fun Times]

Everything indicates to a faulty 50A circuit breaker, (part number 865827T. I will buy a replacement and change it.

Happy to help where I think I can. I hope the breaker is your issue. You may want to be aware that the part number you have 865827T has superseded to 88-11178A01 and depending on the design you receive, the mounting holes may need to be enlarged to make it work. Search each part number for photos online. Good luck.

88-11178A01 BREAKER-CIRCUIT 865827T $80.25 $75.58 $0.00 $0.00 0.13 Lbs Part Number Description Superceded From List Price Online Price Core Chg Cont Chg Ship Weight Each Order Quan ​

This part is the replacement for 11178A01 however the mounting hole will need to be enlarged to make it work.

 

[gbarbosa1982]

You are awesome! Thank you very much!