87 glassmaster floor repair

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Soooo the tech at the glass store said it was OK to lay down woven fabric without a layer of CSM first??? How old was this guy? Did he know you were using Polyester Resin? He was probably thinking about epoxy which doesn't require it. The short semi - technical explanation is...Polyester resin becomes very hard and brittle when it cures. Epoxy remains somewhat soft and flexible when it cures. The CSM fibers due to a chemical reaction with the resin will melt into the resin mix and like "Rebar and Concrete" hold everything togehter so when it flexes it won't break? This helps create a very strong bond between the wood and the woven roving. If you don't use the CSM when the boat flexes the Resin will break and Crack and cause all kinds of problems.
 
Last edited:

Drewmanselle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
39
Yes he sold it all to me, so he knew what I was using. Thanks for the help. I might have had really screwed it up had i not gotten your response.
 

Drewmanselle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
39
purchased a new flap wheel for the angle grinder and will start sanding the edges and bilge to prep for the layers of csm and woven. Hope to tab in and glass the floor this weekend and paint next week.
 

Drewmanselle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
39
No Title

Major step completed, floor is glassed! I re filled the edges with pl premium to fill in the gaps left from the sketchy PB job from a couple of weeks ago. Also tabbed over the seams with 1 layer of CSM and 1 layer of 9.5 oz. woven. glassed the whole floor over the seams with 1 layer of CSM and 1 layer of the woven. Added a hatch to the left rear seat/step area. Now I have to build a storage box. Added foam in the floor and will fill the voids behind the storage box to compensate for the foam that was removed. It will end up being about 1 cubic foot more in additional flotation. I also added side drain holes to the bilge box and glued a plastic base for a new bilge pump. Lots more work to do to meet my May 1st splash goal.
 

Attachments

  • photo241001.jpg
    photo241001.jpg
    129.5 KB · Views: 2

Drewmanselle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
39
PL premium 8X said to give it 24 hours cure time. I gave it probably 26 to 28 before I actually put resin and glass on it. It was hard as a rock. Did I screw up again?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Well, my experience with PL is that it continues to "Outgas" for up to 3-4 days. It will harden and skin over in24 hours but...that does not mean the full chemical reaction has taken place. This will cause adhesion problems with the fiberglass. I'd keep a close eye on any and all areas where the glass comes in contact with the PL to ensure de-lamination does NOT occur.
 

Drewmanselle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
39
Well, my experience with PL is that it continues to "Outgas" for up to 3-4 days. It will harden and skin over in24 hours but...that does not mean the full chemical reaction has taken place. This will cause adhesion problems with the fiberglass. I'd keep a close eye on any and all areas where the glass comes in contact with the PL to ensure de-lamination does NOT occur.
it has been a couple of days now and looks ok. what will I see if it starts to de-lam? will I know it when I see it?
 

Drewmanselle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
39
No Title

Status update and a bilge outlet question:

I painted the floor with the tractor paint and hardener. still can see some seams in the glass that I didn't sand smooth. Over all I would give myself a c on this project. It will be seaworthy and wont rot again for another 30 years ( I hope) even if is not cosmetically perfect.
I installed the new bilge pump last night and trying to decide if I should drill a hold in the transom for the outlet or the side of the hull. I will epoxy the hole completely and then re-drill the outlet hole but where to put the hole is the question. Any insight would be helpful. At this point I am still on track for a May 1 splash!
 

Attachments

  • photo241580.jpg
    photo241580.jpg
    64.7 KB · Views: 1

Mikeopsycho

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 6, 2014
Messages
738
Any boat I've ever owned has had the bilge discharge out the side of the hull, up high. I don't know if it matters or not, but I'd go out the side if it was me.
 

Drewmanselle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
39
I inspected it thuroughly last night and figured out Icouldn't go out the side because of the flotation block in one corner and the new storage box I built in the other. I went out the transom as high as i could. It is higher than the splash well so I think it will be good. Ill post a pic tomorrow.
 

Drewmanselle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
39
No Title

I couldn't match the carpet, if this was a restoration I would replace it all. As it is, it looks repaired and if I sell it somebody will certainly ask questions. floor is once again solid and there is a new storage compartment in the back. Rewired the fuel level sensor and the sonar. Added a bilge pump and re-padded the back of the boat steps/seats by the splash well and in the bow. Need to add the 3rd seat pedestal mount and am asking my wife to sew me a vinyl cover to hide the gas tank. One more long weekend to finish all the details and clean up before splash.
 

Attachments

  • photo242111.jpg
    photo242111.jpg
    99.5 KB · Views: 1

Drewmanselle

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 7, 2016
Messages
39
splashed on Saturday for the fishing opener. one week late because of a bad connection to the battery. All is well now. Bring on summer!

Thank you to all for your expert advice, especially woodonglass and ondarvr. my project would have been an epic fail without your sage wisdom. My small project doesn't compare to most of the rebuilds on this site but it is huge for me who has never done any glass work before.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Congratulations on your...

Splash.jpg


I sincerely hope you have a fun and enjoyable Boating Season!!!
 

mxcobra

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 27, 2011
Messages
526
Soooo the tech at the glass store said it was OK to lay down woven fabric without a layer of CSM first??? How old was this guy? Did he know you were using Polyester Resin? He was probably thinking about epoxy which doesn't require it. The short semi - technical explanation is...Polyester resin becomes very hard and brittle when it cures. Epoxy remains somewhat soft and flexible when it cures. The CSM fibers due to a chemical reaction with the resin will melt into the resin mix and like "Rebar and Concrete" hold everything togehter so when it flexes it won't break? This helps create a very strong bond between the wood and the woven roving. If you don't use the CSM when the boat flexes the Resin will break and Crack and cause all kinds of problems.
sounds familer remember, they told me the same thing Wood...?
 
Top