TB's 1977 Starcraft Chieftain 22?

[thebrain]

I was actually planning to not cut the transom until I was told my 20" shaft Johnson would be to close to water. is this true or false?

I have a 29" armstronge bracket here's what I initially planned.

Thanks STB

 

[thebrain]

I was actually planning to not cut the transom until I was told my 20" shaft Johnson would be to close to water. is this true or false?


Thanks TB

 

[thebrain]

20" shaft Johnson would be to close to water

I'm attemping a inboard outboard conversion to OB

However
I was told my 20" shaft Johnson would be to close to water. is this true or false?
Thanks for any advice
TB

 

[thebrain]

more images

 

[Woodonglass]

Why did you think it necessary to start yet another thread about your boat restoration. Forum rules clearly state that your should keep all your boat restoration questions in one thread to make it easier for the members to follow along with your restoration!!!! You've asked this question in your other thread!!!!!:facepalm:http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...27419-tb-s-1977-starcraft-chieftain-22’/page5

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,... Please keep yer posts together,.....

 

[GA_Boater]

Brain - Your scatterbrained approach of starting new threads and posting in old threads is raising the ire of members and others. Think before hitting the Post button. Please!

When you have a question, post it in this thread and only this thread. If the question belongs in another forum section, we'll advice you, as we have numerous times in all your threads.

You are making it impossible for us to to help you! You are in danger of being ignored by members willing to help!

This open message is because you are either ignoring PM's or don't check them when asked.

 

[Watermann]

Is the position of the pod in the pic where it needs to be for the 20" shaft motor to be at the correct height, the motors AV plate even with the bottom of the hull?

20" OB shafts are most common and referred to as long shaft, 25" are more rare and normally used on the transom of off shore boats with splashwells. Personally I don't think the set back of the pod will cause the motor to be too low when on a plane if the pod is set correctly and weight distribution when off plane could matter on how far the stern sinks. I think it would be fine unless everything with weight to it is stacked in the stern.

 

[thebrain]

Why did you think it necessary to start yet another thread about your boat restoration. Forum rules clearly state that your should keep all your boat restoration questions in one thread to make it easier for the members to follow along with your restoration!!!! You've asked this question in your other thread!!!!!:facepalm:http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...22%C2%92/page5

My initial rebuild post was made in boat restoration someone here decided to move it to starcraft section, I would like for other people other than just starcraft people read and hopefully advice.

please move it back where had started the thread to boat restoration

 

[thebrain]

Is the position of the pod in the pic where it needs to be for the 20" shaft motor to be at the correct height, the motors AV plate even with the bottom of the hull?

20" OB shafts are most common and referred to as long shaft, 25" are more rare and normally used on the transom of off shore boats with splashwells. Personally I don't think the set back of the pod will cause the motor to be too low when on a plane if the pod is set correctly and weight distribution when off plane could matter on how far the stern sinks. I think it would be fine unless everything with weight to it is stacked in the stern.

yes the pod is positioned correctely for a 20" shaft. w/ the setback of 29" the cav. plate should be 3" above the keel.
the mark on the piece of wood indicates the cav. plate.

also the pod will be stuffed w/ a big block of white stryofoam for even more buoyancy, remember the merc. weighted 715 LBs the Johnson is around 375LB.pod is about 45LBs
I also plan to relocate the two batteries into the bow area.

Thanks TB

 

[GA_Boater]

So many of your duplicate threads have been merged that no one knows where you started.

Give us a break. The Starcraft forum is the best place for answers on you tin STARCRAFT!

When a bracketed OB is installed, the bracket is typically mounted with the motor higher than a transom mounted motor. On a transom mounted motor, the rule of thumb is the AV plate is even +/- 1 inch with the hull bottom. For bracketed motors, the motor is mounted higher, the more setback, the higher it's mounted until the limit is reached. The limit is determined by the pillow effect of water going under the boat. As a boat gains speed, a pillow of water is created behind the transom which is higher and the AV plate should be even with or slightly lower than the top of the pillow.

What is this in a pic? A kind of representation of what I mean.



You are way ahead if yourself is this is where you plan on mounting the bracket. If a 20" motor is mounted, the bracket would be 5" lower than than a 25" motor. Slow down - You have a lot more measuring to do.

 

[GA_Boater]

We cross posted. You have part of it figured out.

Where did you find the 3" lift number?

 

[thebrain]

the rule of thumb when relocating a engine backward is move back 12" move cav. plate up 1" this is from armstronge bracket co.

 

[thebrain]

Building 2? plywood transom

Building 2? plywood transom

1.Can I use ??exterior plywood inbetween two ?? sheets of marine plywood?

2.will spar uratheme be good enough to water proof the wood?

I will be fitting the new wood into side and bottom aluimin Z brackets that are revitoed when I removed the old wood these Z brackets where very tight and where preventing me from moving wood.
3.should I slitely bend these Z outward a tad?

4.should the new wood be the exact same size as the originale or a tad smaller?
Thanks for any tips TB

 

[gm280]

the brain, the typical replacement transoms setup is two pieces of 3/4" exterior grade plywood. Marine ply would be great for that. I don't see adding another 1/2" piece myself. Unless there is a very good reason for the transom to be that thick, I would just use two 3/4" pieces myself.

What is this transom going into? Post a picture or three for us to see what you are dealing with. JMHO!

 

[Frey0357]

Hello the brain. It seems some boats have 1.5" transoms like gm280 is referring to and some have 2" thick transoms. Boats that are rated for larger outboards 75hp and greater usually have 2" (at least for aluminum boats, or "tinnies"). MIne is only 1.5" and my boat is rated for up to a 70hp outboard. Post a photo of your boat and we can likely help you further!

As for the fitment of the new transom, you definitely want it tight (in my opinion) and not sloppy at all. Spar Urathane will work fine, but Epoxy is king when it comes to sealing. A member here has shared his "secret formula" with many members including myself and I have to say it works excellent and seals very good. Here is a photo of what I used on mine.....simply dump all of these together in a bucket, stir for several minutes and brush it on. 3 coats on all surfaces and 2 straight coats of spar will seal it shut from the elements!

Good luck and share your progress!

Frey

 

[GA_Boater]

Brain - Why do you insist on starting new threads when the questions are particular the boat in this thread?

Especially when you ask;

I will be fitting the new wood into side and bottom aluimin Z brackets that are revitoed when I removed the old wood these Z brackets where very tight and where preventing me from moving wood.
3.should I slitely bend these Z outward a tad?

4.should the new wood be the exact same size as the originale or a tad smaller?

 

[Watermann]

Building 2” plywood transom

1.Can I use ?”exterior plywood inbetween two ?” sheets of marine plywood?

2.will spar uratheme be good enough to water proof the wood?

I will be fitting the new wood into side and bottom aluimin Z brackets that are revitoed when I removed the old wood these Z brackets where very tight and where preventing me from moving wood.
3.should I slitely bend these Z outward a tad?

4.should the new wood be the exact same size as the originale or a tad smaller?No
Thanks for any tips TB

1. Why?
2. Yes
3. No there's a mechanical bond between the transom wood, z bracket, side brackets and the entire transom skin, it's not just the bracket. You have to use considerable force to remove it. I used a floor jack with a 2x4 in the keyhole and a guy inside jumping up and down.
4. Yes 1.5" thick.

 

[thebrain]

Upate on my progress.

Transom ? way out took some persuasion spare tire jack and blocked it up slowely, will use tow trucks boom to lift completely out.

I estimate the weight of new wood section of transom to be 120LBs, aluimin brace about
25-45LBs.

Picked up two ?? sheets of marine plywood I would have been waiting on the ?? sheet
Till next Friday so I purchased exterior will put exterior in-between the marine
yes I am able to close the hatch on the Astro van.


Will glue B sides w/ waterproof F-26.

Plan to use spar urethane to extra waterproof.

?1.should new transom be the exact same size as the orginale or a tad smaller? referring to width?

?2.I?m thinking of swapping in new transom then drilling holes?

?3.Must I use 3M 5200 in these holes or can I use F-26?

is this the correct 3m5200 http://www.walmart.com/ip/21014810?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=83&adid =22222222227016781784&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=5176220 1791&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=83184874511&veh=sem

Thanks Guys for advice TB

 

[Watermann]

Never have used the F26 or know anyone who has, most stick with the tried and true adhesives on such an expensive and important part of the boat. Personally I've only used Titebond. If that F26 stuff is too solid like most stuff in the construction tubes then it'll be tough to get an even layer.

Just get some 5200....

Be sure to clean the corrosion off the inner transom skin, any white you see on the plywood corresponds to the more serious galvanic corrosion on the skin.