Changing reeds

[SkiDad]

so i thought about upgrading my reeds to carbon / boyesen as I've read it helps with starting and idle. my boat generally starts 2nd try when warm - unless I start in fast idle.

my question is can i just take off the intake manifolds to get to the reeds without taking the carbs off the manifolds ? Seems like this would be an easier way and less gaskets to replace - but I don't have my boat out yet to see if I'm asking a stupid question - I just don't want to re-setup my carbs to change reeds and wonder if there is a shortcut.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Yes you should be able to take it apart without removing the carbs.
​BUT it would be easier to work on when they are out of the way.

BUT your not gonna notice much of change.

 

[SkiDad]

i know it won't change performance much, but do you think it will help with my starting issue ? Or do you have another suggestion ?

 

[gm280]

i know it won't change performance much, but do you think it will help with my starting issue ? Or do you have another suggestion ?

Personally, I think you are wasting your money and won't see any difference. But that is just my opinion. If you are having starting issues, verify you have good spark first and then fuel air next. If all those things check out good, when was the last time you checked the compression? Have you tried squirting some 50:1 fuel/oil mixture into the carb(s) to see if it started better? If so, check out the fuel choke system or enriching system. again JMHO!

 

[SkiDad]

Hi Guys! I don't really have normal starting issues - it will start 1st try when cold (using choke / fast idle method) It's just a quirk we have when changing skiers - when warm the 1st try it starts but then dies immediately, blip the key again and it's off - it's almost like it doesn't get enough gas for a second or the rpm is too low and needs a second to stabilize.

If i do a warm start in fast idle it will always start up immediately. so i've messed 100x with the idle speed to get the happy medium - I can solve the issue by making the idle really high but that's not good on the lower unit or fun for the skiers. But I shoot for a happy medium in idle speed and after 10 seconds or so it settles into the normal 1000 out of gear or 750 in gear. It will idle nicely for hours after starting.

it's really the only quirk I've had to deal with on this engine - it runs like a scared cat once I punch it with zero hesitation. Yes I have tested the compression a few years ago and each hole was 150-155

the only thing I know I changed from previous owner is the timing - he had it set at 34 degrees and I backed it 32 degrees.

I know it's not a big deal, I just wish I could figure it out b/c we change skiers every 5-10 minutes. My wife calls our boat 2nd time Charlie - ha ha

 

[fisheymikey]

i would do 3 things and do them independently...

first adjust the air to mix ratio to the carb

did you check the carb float?

did you check the drain reed? it looks like a bone underneath the CDI? assure there is no blockage.

bust lastly looks at the reaction of the smoke.. if you notice a higher volume of smoke there is a fuel to air mixture problem

hope that helps bud

 

[pnwboat]

I don't know but I bet that there are few folks out there that wish that they had the same "problem" as you do with their 31 year old motor....takes two tries too start when warm.....runs like a scalded cat with no hesitation when you punch it.

I've used the Boyesen and a couple of other brands of composite reeds in my motor (1988 125HP) and I don't recall if it made any difference in starting, so based on my feeble memory I'd guess that you probably won't see any difference in starting. You may have to re-adjust your idle mixture though.

 

[flyingscott]

I have those reeds in a couple of my motors won't help with your starting. They will give you a slightly better idle and maybe more punch off the line. Is it worth the time and effort that is up to you. For your motor make sure your idle mixture is adjustable because you need to be able adjust it richer with Boyesens,don't know whats available for orifices for your motor if you have them so check that. Set-up for those is critical one good lean sneeze and they are done. We do a lot of skiing we just never shut the motor off easier on the battery and starter. I would do what FISHEYMIKEY said. I only put boyesens in motors that I know have problematic reed set-ups.

 

[SkiDad]

I don't know but I bet that there are few folks out there that wish that they had the same "problem" as you do with their 31 year old motor....takes two tries too start when warm.....runs like a scalded cat with no hesitation when you punch it.

yes you are right, i am thankful it runs so good otherwise!

FisheyMikey - i'll check the floats - do I have to take the carbs off to check or can i do it while on the engine ? As for the re-circulation bone things - do they even make gaskets for those - i have thought about it but didn't know if I would have the correct gaskets or parts needed to service.

 

[pnwboat]

There is a reed valve plate gasket. Item #44 in the diagram below.

http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury...cfm?mdl=QWINQM

You have to take the carburetors off to check the float level if that's what you intend to do. Not necessary if you are just checking for crud or visual inspection of floats.

Just don't get too caught up in trying to fix your problem. You know that old saying.....if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I've been there more than once. LOL!

 

[jerryjerry05]

What's the idle rpm's? in gear? In N??
Reset the air screws being careful not to screw them in too far.
My 88/85's don't always start right back up.

 

[SkiDad]

it settles in to 750 in gear.

when I warm start it it will be 1000-1100 (in neutral) Next time it might be as low as 700-800 (in neutral) - it just erratic how it start rpm wise - if i wait 10 seconds or so the rpm will creep up to the 900 or so and then I can put it into gear. Once it's warmed up 10 seconds it will never stall.

my air screws are 1-1/8 out

here are pics from my plugs last time before I cleaned them. Ii think they are a tad rich. The black stuff wipes right off.

 

[pnwboat]

What brand/type of plugs are those?

 

[SkiDad]

NGK BUHX - they have about 80-100 hours (5 years old)

 

[jerryjerry05]

Do another comp test(just for fun).
​To test the plugs: Run the boat at almost wide open 4800 for 8-10 min.
Then turn the key off while running.
Don't throttle down just turn it off.
Then pull the plugs and see what's on there then.

If they look the same then reset the air screws.
Remember your burning oil and they'll never look like plugs from a 4stroke.

My plugs are way old too and don't need to be changed.
I used plugs for probably 7+ years and only changed them when I felt guilty???

How fast is the motor turning over?
Good hot battery?
Clean the contacts in the starter?

 

[SkiDad]

thanks guys for all the suggestions - i'll try those when i get my boat out in a few weeks - glad to have an early spring !

 

[SkiDad]

There is a reed valve plate gasket. Item #44 in the diagram below.

http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury...cfm?mdl=QWINQM

Hi pnwboat, do you think I need the gasket item #36 as well ? Looks like there are 2 gaskets ??

 

[pnwboat]

Sure looks like you also need #36 too. Didn't notice it. Good catch SkiDad.

 

[SkiDad]

what do you think about rebuilding the fuel pump - i think that is all original by looking at the screws ?

if I do it what parts do i need ? http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/1215_5.cfm?mdl=QWINQM

I'm guessing 4 and 8 - anything else I should swap out ? Oh and is there a thread that shows how to do this ?

 

[pnwboat]

Yes #4 and #8 are all you need for the fuel pump. If in doubt...replace it. Easy to do and not very expensive.