New Project - 1978 Terry Sun-Sport

Moneytalks1515 · Apr 12, 2016

Hello!

Brand new member and just bought my first boat (basically stole it!) and completely stripping it down and rebuilding it. I have read every post I could find here on this site and its loaded with information. I wanted to create a post to show step by step as much as possible and look for everyone's opinion and suggestions Most of these pictures so far show my brother (and best friend) who has done most of the work up to this point. So enjoy as we embark on a log and itchy journey!

So far we are only into it $800 and that includes the $200 I bought it for. We have got all the material to reupholster her and 5 gallons of resin and fiberglass matting. We are getting ready to start cutting out the stringers now and will post more pictures this weekend when we uncover her again. Please let me know everyone what you think!

Her First Picture - Completely destroyed
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNY1JsYjdVZXRGRDA/view?usp=sharing

Full outside View of her
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNVFNreHh0Mzl0UGs/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNTGs1QmttRkM4V2c/view?usp=sharing

My Parents look on at the peice of junk I am about to park in their yard because my HOA wont allow it!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNMlE5VlRVaWdhMkE/view?usp=sharing

What have we got ourselves into!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNNGJ4ZGdFRkVPem8/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNLTA1Qmx2SEhCdXc/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNd0R2VTJHSUFrNGs/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNNTY1WXYwRDQ2dzQ/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNbVdBNmR2NUoySG8/view?usp=sharing

Somehow we lucked out and the motor fired after sitting for years without starting on the Third turn of the ignition!
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNazVjbGpTRFZGbk0/view?usp=sharing

And the itch begins!!! We do where a respirator before anyone gets worried, these were kind of posed for.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNWmR0WUJQMkRHV00/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNS25OUkFmMjN2QUU/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNS0ZKc2NFY0FRWFk/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzS5uNl3uKZNRFc4eVctUkRONEU/view?usp=sharing

alldodge · Apr 12, 2016

Looks like a complete gut. I would suggest getting a full face mask, the glass dust can mess with your eyes

I got one like this but not at this price
http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

alldodge · Apr 12, 2016

Posted here but the posting didn't show up, who knows maybe a website issue

Moneytalks1515 · Apr 13, 2016

definitely a full gut!

We have goggles we are using. started with the chemistry style goggles but they just fog up constantly. So we have been using the standard wood working style glasses and so far its worked out great, but Ill check into a full faced mask as well.

Quick question for all you veterans, is there any reason that you shouldn't use 2x4's for the stringers instead of ply wood? The outside stringers we can run a single 2x4 the length of the boat but if we use ply we will have to use 2 pieces? I would think a single board the length of the boat would be a better way to go.

52FordF2 · Apr 13, 2016

Regular wood may shrink over time. Plywood is more stable.

My .02 worth. Others will chime in.

alldodge · Apr 13, 2016

+1 ^ agree, and plywood is stronger in every direction. I used BCX not marine grade (ACX), cheaper and the big box stores carry it

Moneytalks1515 · Apr 13, 2016

When you say shrink are you referring to drying? If so even kiln dried?

If we use plywood, how do you attach 2 pieces of ply? The length is 12 feet and the boards are 8 feet long? Do you separate with a bulk head or butt the two ends together and laminate them with glass?

Also on the topic of marine grade Ply, is this necessary even if we will be glassing all the plywood ? Is fiber glass enough? The cost is substantially more for marine grade and seems overkill since we plan to fiberglass the entire deck and then adding a roll on bed liner type finish to the top.

Thank you guys for your input! You are the best!

alldodge · Apr 13, 2016

Moneytalks1515 said:
When you say shrink are you referring to drying? If so even kiln dried?

It is dry issue but also strength, ply is stronger

If we use plywood, how do you attach 2 pieces of ply? The length is 12 feet and the boards are 8 feet long? Do you separate with a bulk head or butt the two ends together and laminate them with glass?

You don't use just one layer, lay 2 to 3 side by side and stager the pieces for continuous joints. If you come up to a bulk head, many but joint it then continue on the other side. Your taking it apart, note how it was built.

Also on the topic of marine grade Ply, is this necessary even if we will be glassing all the plywood ? Is fiber glass enough? The cost is substantially more for marine grade and seems overkill since we plan to fiberglass the entire deck and then adding a roll on bed liner type finish to the top.

Thank you guys for your input! You are the best!

No don't use marine grade ply unless you just want to spend more money. Use exterior grade ply, the glue is the same with all grades. The difference between marine grade (ACX) and other exterior grade ply is the voids left inside the wood. BCX has less voids the CDX, some use CDX, I used BCX as stated above

Moneytalks1515 · Apr 20, 2016

So we got some more work done this weekend but unfortunately like so many of the boat projects I have read about on this forum we ran into some bad news. Completely unsurprising but bad nonetheless. Our initial inspection of the transom suggested that it was repaired at some point by the owner. A knock test as well as peeling back some of the fiberglass suggested that it was in good shape, so we thought. So we had no plans of replacing it, UNTIL an accidental slip of the grinder caused the transom to bleed water and reveal the rot.

Something for anyone looking to do this for the first time, be sure not to assume its good and just drill some holes to check the transom. Our naivety put us back a week or so and made grinding the fiberglass to lay new stringers miserable, climbing under seats and benches for no reason. Had we just tested it to begin with the top would have come off and saved us a ton of work..... So below is some new pictures of our progress

Moneytalks1515 · Apr 25, 2016

Made a little more progress this weekend, we were able to get the transom in and mark lay strings to get measurements for the stringers.

Does anyone have any experience using Fumed Silica to thicken the resin into a peanut butter substance? We had some difficulties getting it to thicken up, we used a pint of Silica to mix up 3 quarts of resin. we were able to use it to glue in the transom but we couldnt get it thick enough to fill in the sides. Anyone have any advice for the next time?

Here are some new pictures

alldodge · Apr 25, 2016

Moneytalks1515 said:
Made a little more progress this weekend, we were able to get the transom in and mark lay strings to get measurements for the stringers.

Does anyone have any experience using Fumed Silica to thicken the resin into a peanut butter substance? We had some difficulties getting it to thicken up, we used a pint of Silica to mix up 3 quarts of resin. we were able to use it to glue in the transom but we couldnt get it thick enough to fill in the sides. Anyone have any advice for the next time?

It takes quite a bit to thicken it like PB, I've used a gallons of it for the job I had, and I also tried not to use it for that issue.

Most of use like pics, but google pics are causing my computer to do act strange when at the site so I'm not going back. If you upload the pics to iboats then we won't have to go to google

Moneytalks1515 · Apr 25, 2016

Ok thanks for letting me know Ill upload them to iboats from now on and see if I can go back and add all of them. It was only allowing me to do one at a time so I started adding the links.

alldodge · Apr 25, 2016

Have a look here about pics
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/othe...ics/546368-how-to-posting-pictures-and-videos

Woodonglass · Apr 28, 2016

This video should be of help on making PB...

Moneytalks1515 · May 2, 2016

Alright guys I recently went down to my fiber glass guys shop and asked some questions and was blown away by something he recommended... He suggested that we leave the deck open back by the bilge so we can drain the water out of the deck/foam. He said that no matter what we do there will be water in there and it has to drain.. What do you guys think? I thought the purpose of what we are doing it to copleletly seal the deck. He also recommended we put off down the stern of the boat with drainage holes cut in it.

This goes against everything I thought I knew so I need your help!

Thanks in advamce!

alldodge · May 2, 2016

Agree water has to come out, but not by draining, and I don't see how it will never drain all out. Only way I know of getting it all out once it got in, is remove all the foam

Moneytalks1515 · May 2, 2016

Right I understand that, we have removed all the foam and putting in a new deck. What he is recommending is for the future, if we leave the deck open he says we can tilt it a bit later and out a fan in there after every trip to keep it from accumulating in there.

He is telling me nothing we can ever do will keep the water out so the best way to address it is leave it open so it can air out and drain into the bilge

alldodge · May 2, 2016

A few issues I can think of, the foam provides the boat stiffness, also flotation. Not a boat builder but there are USCG requirements, and I doubt the original boat builder added foam just because they wanted to. Leaving holes will allow water out but also in. If water never gets in there is no need to drain. Water got in because the transom became soft and over time wicked it way thru.

In the end it's your boat

Moneytalks1515 · May 2, 2016

Ok so in the end what's the best method for keeping the water out? His reasoning was that water will get in no matter what you do. If that is true how do you prevent the rot? I thought we knew what we were doing but now there's a bunch of opinions.

alldodge · May 2, 2016

Water does not get in if sealed. Good glassing process and there should be no leaks, folks do this all the time. Where is this guy thinking the water will get in at?

New Project - 1978 Terry Sun-Sport

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