Volvo Penta sx gimbal bearing seized to shaft...is transom mount housing still good??

Chris_g11

Cadet
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
8
Hello today I pulled my Volvo Penta SX outdrive off of my boat I have a Wellcraft 18 foot boat that has the Volvo Penta single prop outdrive. when I was pulling the outdrive off it was very difficult to shake off. but eventually I got it also what came out was the you joints the splined shaft and a bearing on it.

now I'm assuming this is the gimbal bearing and I pulled it out along with the shaft my question is said to did come out and it is stuck on the shaft
1. is the shaft ruined? there are no chipped teeth there appears to be nothing wrong with it.

2. since the bearing was seized to the shaft the bearing spins very awkwardly however is the bearing housing ruined because it came out on the shaft ??

Of course my local boat company did say oh the shaft housing is ruined and you need to get the new part that connects to the transom we will take the motor out for you and happily order that housing for you at a mere cost of $4000... ummmmm no!

So if anybody has any experience in this and can tell meif the housing is ruined I would appreciate italso there's another bearing it looks like inside the housing is there to gamble bearings or is there only one? I will also post pictures to hopefully explain what I mean.. Thank you for any replies and if this is been discussed before if you could attach a link to that thread I would appreciate it. I'm new to the forum by about 12 minutes so I appreciate everybody's help and it's a great forum.

Well this won't let me attach any pictures right now but I will do that on my computer as soon as I'm able to.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,615
Did water enter your bellows to cause the bearing to get seized onto the shaft? How does the housing look? You have pictures?

You can use a picture hosting site and ut pictures up now.
 

Senior B

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 19, 2006
Messages
253
A stuck bearing on the shaft is not un heard of and does happen. Shaft probably has a bit of rust on it too. Use some PB blaster on the bearing for a couple days and tap around the bearing with a hammer and it should come off with out to much effort. If the gimbal housing is ok after a good cleaning, you should be able to install a fresh bearing along with a bellows change and get on down the water way. This kind of thing happens when you either have "un-checked" water intrusion or a drive that hasn't been removed in many years. Regular periodic maintenance will cure both. Good luck
 

Chris_g11

Cadet
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
8
Ok thank you for your reply.

So heres an update and some photos.

I talked with my local dealer who said I may have to cut the bearing off with a torch as that is a common practice for them. They also seemed to want to nickel and dime me to death to the tune of about 3K. The shop stated I should replace the U joints, both sides of the drive along with the housing that holds the pinion gear in the rear main housing, the gimbal bearing, the gimbal bearing housing and bellows and associated parts and lubricants.

So with that first piece of information I went ahead and had some one cut off the bearing with a torch. It was a fairly easy process and did not appear to damage the shaft. Prior to that we did attempt to press the bearing out with a twenty ton press, lubricant, heat, more lubricant to no avail.

To answer your questions .. Yes I am assuming water entered the bellows be it a lil or a lot it did the job of seizing that bearing. I did try soaking it with lubricant and hammering it off but that didnt work. So when I heard of the torch method it seemed reasonable. If you are referring to not removing the drive in years then you are correct. I have had this boat for 14 years and never pulled the outdrive off. So I guess it is a lack of preventative maintenance. (mybad)

I have taken a bunch of pictures so you can see the bearing on the shaft, the shaft and splines, the u joints, ( that spin freely and smoothly) and the bearing seat inside the boat.

Since everything is apart now I just need to know if I put a new bearing in and seat it and put everything back together is there any opinion that I will spin that bearing out with in an hour of running it or will it be ok. I understand that not having this physically to inspect makes it hard to say but if you have done this type of repair before and have had success please let me know. Thanks

Not sure which one of these will work so just copy and paste into your browser to access my photobucket with the photos. Thank you

http://s72.photobucket.com/user/toize03/slideshow/Boat Gimbal
<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s72.photobucket.com/user/toize03/embed/Boat%20Gimbal/story"></iframe>
 

BellevilleMXZ

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 16, 2015
Messages
85
I wouldn't reuse shaft and ujoints. I would also reseal the upper bearing and inspect it real good. Looks quite rusty.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,291
Since everything is apart now I just need to know if I put a new bearing in and seat it and put everything back together is there any opinion that I will spin that bearing out with in an hour of running it or will it be ok.

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,..... It sounds, 'n appears that the bearin' was turnin', 'n didn't seize, causin' it to wallow out the housin',....

The bearin' seat in the housin', appears in the pictures, Undamaged,....

If the bearin' is driven in, with appropriate force, 'n aligned, no reason to think it won't last,...
 

Senior B

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 19, 2006
Messages
253
From your pictures, I see an outdrive that hasn't been removed in many years, but not one that has sat for a long time with a bellows full of water. Your U-Joints have greese fittings on them. I would lube them up, clean up the shaft and all the other stuff with WD-40 and emery cloth, and drive in a new bearing. I don't see anything that's trashed and your Gimbal Housing looks fine to me. You can make this project as expensive as you wish, and it's no surprise that the stealership is quoting 3K to start. I will say $110.00 or so. Bearing, WD-40, scotch bright, grease, bellows, beer, cheap whisky for your nerves if needed. Shop rags and a block of wood to drive the bearing should be available in your garage or taken from your neighbors fence. Good luck. P.S remove outdrive to inspect in about a year:)
 

Chris_g11

Cadet
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
8
I wouldn't reuse shaft and ujoints. I would also reseal the upper bearing and inspect it real good. Looks quite rusty.


Belleville are you referring to the upper bearing being the one in front of the gimbal bearing or where is that located?
 

Chris_g11

Cadet
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
8
From your pictures, I see an outdrive that hasn't been removed in many years, but not one that has sat for a long time with a bellows full of water. Your U-Joints have greese fittings on them. I would lube them up, clean up the shaft and all the other stuff with WD-40 and emery cloth, and drive in a new bearing. I don't see anything that's trashed and your Gimbal Housing looks fine to me. You can make this project as expensive as you wish, and it's no surprise that the stealership is quoting 3K to start. I will say $110.00 or so. Bearing, WD-40, scotch bright, grease, bellows, beer, cheap whisky for your nerves if needed. Shop rags and a block of wood to drive the bearing should be available in your garage or taken from your neighbors fence. Good luck. P.S remove outdrive to inspect in about a year:)

Senior i am digging this reply best... hahaha this was my original plan but when I went to the dealer he filled me full of doubts. I like to think of myself as pretty handy and knowledgeable but when he was telling me all my stuff was junk I was like man you serious. He said it wouldnt work. I was skeptical that he just wanted my money but he is supposed to be the authority. Also your correct the drive hasnt been removed for years !!!!!!
Anyways I thank you for you reply.
 

Chris_g11

Cadet
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
8
Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,..... It sounds, 'n appears that the bearin' was turnin', 'n didn't seize, causin' it to wallow out the housin',....

The bearin' seat in the housin', appears in the pictures, Undamaged,....

If the bearin' is driven in, with appropriate force, 'n aligned, no reason to think it won't last,...


Bondo I thought that same thing. The bearing had the inner ring solid to the shaft but the bearing would spin otherwise. the outer ring was wobbly tho. I could push it 1/2 inch either way of center. I had video of it I should have uploaded it. I think my plan now is to do as SeniorB mentioned. Clean it all up, lube it all up. seat it nice and allign it. Have pizza and drink and enjoy . Hopefully it all works out the way i hope it does. Thank you all for your replies. Any one else have Ideas, options or replys please post. Thank you
 

Chris_g11

Cadet
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
8
Oh also since I have you all here is there an easy way to get to the bellows?

It appears one side may be glued in. Is that correct?

Ideas how to remove them?

Also is there supposed to be a seal that goes between the gimbal bearing and the u joint side of the shaft?

I also read there is a few O-rings to replace while this is apart. Does any one know what those are and where they are located?

Anything else I should do while this is off?

Info appreciated ... Thank you
 
Last edited:

bajaunderground

Lieutenant
Joined
Apr 18, 2008
Messages
1,401
Personally, I would trust Bondo's advice over anyone (that's not to discount anyone's advice, just that he's right like 99% of the time)...he'd be the first to tell you what you NEED! Stealerships are not the authority on all things boat...the shaft looks good and the housing looks acceptable. A used transom assembly will run you, new $3,799.00 and used, $799-$1,200.00. I'd replace the bearing, grease shaft and replace bellows. Check annually for issues. Have a great summer!
 

BRICH1260

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
1,397
I had the same problem a couple years ago, bearing sized to the drive shaft. Once I got the bearing off, I cleaned the shaft really good. Replaced the shaft O rings, bellows, re-greased the U joints, and replaced the gimble.. Before reassembling I lubed the shaft really well and applied a very thin coat of lower unit grease over the exterior surface of the U joint by finger also to deter future corrosion. I had maybe a couple hundred dollars in parts, works fine now. Now each year I pull my drive as preventative maintenance.
 

Chris_g11

Cadet
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
8
Hello All
So again I have the shaft of this thing out and just received teh gimbal bearing. The shaft wont easily slide into the bearing so my question is since im supposed to seat the bearing first then align it and then put the shaft into it and tighten down the nuts will that get the shaft into the bearing...... OR should I scotch brite the shaft till it slides easily into the bearing?

Also which side of the bearing goes in towards the front of the boat. One side has a flange that protrudes from the middle of the bearing. The other side is completely flush with the bearings.

I need to grease that bearing up any ideas on which grease to use?

I have a seal for that does it go in after the bearing and before the shaft?

Again guys thank you for helping me out with this. I appreciate all the advice and direction.
 

BRICH1260

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
1,397
Since the bearing area of your shaft is not severely corroded, I wouldn't polish it to aggressively, maybe some light sanding with Emory cloth. Most times you have to rotate the shaft a little so that the splines align with the coupler at the back of the motor. Lube the shaft well with lower unit waterproof grease where the bearing will rest., don't forget the two O rings on the shaft.

I don't remember there being a front or back to my bearing, I think it can go either way as long as the grease tube lines up, if you have one. The seal goes in before the bearing, since mine was not damaged, I did not replace, I heard it was difficult to swap out.

I helps to have a couple people when putting one back together. Lifting and pushing in all while rotating the shaft can be a lot for one guy.
 

Chris_g11

Cadet
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
8
Britch1260 thank you for that reply.

Heres a pic of the bearing im not sure which part goes to the front of the boat but I do understand that the hole must be aligned in the bearing with the lube hole in the boat. As far as the seal I thought that went after the bearing on the transom side of the bearing. But your saying it goes in prior... maybe mine is still in there and I havent taken it out. I will definitely look into that.

From what you were saying tho am I understanding correctly that the bearing should just slide right on the shaft easily or will I need to bump it a lil or will I need to hammer that thing in?

I just dont want to clean that shaft up so much that its to small then. If you can see these pics which way does that bearing go?

Again thank you for any help
 

Attachments

  • Bearing 1.jpg
    Bearing 1.jpg
    55.7 KB · Views: 0
  • bearing 2.jpg
    bearing 2.jpg
    52.9 KB · Views: 0

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,615
It doesn't matter which way it goes but people usually face the notches out. In theory you can rotate the bearing and pull it out the notches but no reason to really do that either. Just mark it so it lines up with the lube hole.
 

BRICH1260

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 6, 2011
Messages
1,397
You should not have to hammer it in, it should slide in enough to get the six bolts started, they will do the seating for you. Don't forget to lube up the "nose " of the outdrive well that mates up with the bellows before putting it all together. Again you may need to rotate the shaft by turning the prop shaft a little to align the splines to the coupler.
 
Top