1999 Glastron Volvo Penta

[mnjeepmale]

I'm new to the board and just have a few questions while I get to know DIY information.

1999 Glastron Volvo Penta 5.0GL

I need a new battery for the engine. Is there a difference in batteries that are labeled marine compared to auto? I'm shopping around and don't want to spend a lot on a battery for this engine. What is recommended?

Looking to replace spark plugs on this engine and I believe I need the engine serial #. Where is that located? Suggested plugs?

I'm still new to this and will take any suggestions.

 

[Bondo]

I'm new to the board

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... Most boat batteries are group 24 or group 27,...

Boat batteries will have proper connections for boat wirin',....
Though if yer new one comes with wing nuts, toss 'em, 'n get real nuts,....
700cca or more power oughta work for ya,....

Yer '99 SBC will like the AC Delco, MR43lts spark plugs,...
They're standard Chevy Vortec head spark plugs, only with alloy bodies that don't rust nearly as fast as some other choices,.....

 

[mnjeepmale]

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... Most boat batteries are group 24 or group 27,...

Boat batteries will have proper connections for boat wirin',....
Though if yer new one comes with wing nuts, toss 'em, 'n get real nuts,....
700cca or more power oughta work for ya,....

Yer '99 SBC will like the AC Delco, MR43lts spark plugs,...
They're standard Chevy Vortec head spark plugs, only with alloy bodies that don't rust nearly as fast as some other choices,.....

Thanks for the reply. The boat does have wing nuts. I'll get regular nut connectors this weekend and cut the old wing nuts off.
Suggestion on battery brand?

Dumb question. What is SBC?
Is there a part number to the plugs I should buy? Where is the serial number on the engine? I would like to buy decent plugs here in the next few days.

 

[Maclin]

Welcome!

Now what exactly do you mean here "...and cut the old wing nuts off...."

The wingnuts mentioned are for the Positive and Negative terminal connections on the battery. Should not need to cut them off

Just remove those and replace with hex-sided nuts that fit the threads.

SBC is Small Block Chevy.

 

[mnjeepmale]

I meant I'm going to replace the cables. Looking to buy NGK plugs but not sure what is the number to look for when getting plugs.

 

[Augoose]

Cross reference for spark plugs...

Volvo Penta ............................... 3851831
AC ............................................. MR43LTS
Champion .................................. RS12YC

 

[jimmbo]

After 14 yrs I replaced the battery that came with my boat. VP 5.7 It never let me down. It was an Interstate Marine 800CCA starting battery, Interstate tested it this year, it still had 72% of its rated capacity. It might have lasted another year or two, but... So I bought another of the same.

 

[mnjeepmale]

I replaced the battery with a Northern Marine battery. 1000CCA.

What's the proper way of draining and refilling the stern drive oil? I know there is a dip stick at the top and drain plug on the bottom of the stern drive.

 

[Augoose]

Pick up a cheap plastic tray that's wide and shallow like a rectangular cake pan, a gear lube pump and two replacement O-rings to replace the O-rings on the drain and vent screws (drain at the bottom and vent at the top- not the dipstick but a 2nd screw next to the shift actuator behind the plastic cover). Lower the lower unit down as far as you can go but where you still can get to the drain screw with a wide blade screw driver. The skeg will sit inside the plastic tray. Remove the drain screw and let the 2.1 liters of gear fluid drain into the pan. Once it starts draining you can remove the vent screw to help it drain quicker. Once fully drained, screw the threaded hose end of the gear lube pump into the drain hole of the outdrive. Then connect a bottle of new gear lube to the pump and start pumping in fresh fluid - the vent screw will still be open. When you transition from one bottle of fluid to the next, have a rag nearby to catch drips. While leaving the threaded end of the hose screwed into the outdrive, disconnect the clear hose from the pump handle. While you pinch the hose with your finger, have a helper connect a new bottle of fluid to the pump - connect it back to the clear hose and keep pumping. Slow down when you get done with the 2nd bottle and look for fluid to seep out of the vent hole. When it does, give it one more good pump (to compensate for lost fluid in the next step which you WILL have), disconnect the pump handle from the clear hose and plug the line. Have a helped screw in the vent screw which will create a little bit of vacuum and keep fluid loss minimal. As quickly as you can, unscrew the threaded end of the clear hose from the outdrive and quickly screw in the drain screw - don't forget the new O-rings!
Poor the used gear oil into a bottle using a corner of the square tray and take it to a recycling center. Check the dipstick for proper level and you're done.

 

[mnjeepmale]

Pick up a cheap plastic tray that's wide and shallow like a rectangular cake pan, a gear lube pump and two replacement O-rings to replace the O-rings on the drain and vent screws (drain at the bottom and vent at the top- not the dipstick but a 2nd screw next to the shift actuator behind the plastic cover). Lower the lower unit down as far as you can go but where you still can get to the drain screw with a wide blade screw driver. The skeg will sit inside the plastic tray. Remove the drain screw and let the 2.1 liters of gear fluid drain into the pan. Once it starts draining you can remove the vent screw to help it drain quicker. Once fully drained, screw the threaded hose end of the gear lube pump into the drain hole of the outdrive. Then connect a bottle of new gear lube to the pump and start pumping in fresh fluid - the vent screw will still be open. When you transition from one bottle of fluid to the next, have a rag nearby to catch drips. While leaving the threaded end of the hose screwed into the outdrive, disconnect the clear hose from the pump handle. While you pinch the hose with your finger, have a helper connect a new bottle of fluid to the pump - connect it back to the clear hose and keep pumping. Slow down when you get done with the 2nd bottle and look for fluid to seep out of the vent hole. When it does, give it one more good pump (to compensate for lost fluid in the next step which you WILL have), disconnect the pump handle from the clear hose and plug the line. Have a helped screw in the vent screw which will create a little bit of vacuum and keep fluid loss minimal. As quickly as you can, unscrew the threaded end of the clear hose from the outdrive and quickly screw in the drain screw - don't forget the new O-rings!
Poor the used gear oil into a bottle using a corner of the square tray and take it to a recycling center. Check the dipstick for proper level and you're done.

Thank you so much. It took awhile to find the vent hole but was able to locate it under the plastic cover.

I drained the oil and refilled it with Amsoil marine gear lube 75W/80W-90. Would that oil work? It's a different color then the blue oil that came out. It took about 2.5 qt of oil.

Is there any other grease points besides the one on the right of the lower unit? Think that's the one for the gimbal bearing

 

[Augoose]

I drained the oil and refilled it with Amsoil marine gear lube 75W/80W-90. Would that oil work? It's a different color then the blue oil that came out. It took about 2.5 qt of oil.

Is there any other grease points besides the one on the right of the lower unit? Think that's the one for the gimbal bearing

I don't see where you mentioned what outdrive you have, but I'm assuming its the SX-M? Lots of folks on the forum speak very highly of Amsoil's lube. Volvo Penta calls for either their VP synthetic gear lube (which is what I use), Mobilube 1SHC synthetic, or a SAE 75W-90 fully synthetic gear lube - so you are just fine. My SX-M takes 2.1 liters.

As for grease points from the outside at the stern and without removing any components, the gimbal zerk is the only access point that I can think of off the top of my head. You should be pulling the drive seasonally however and inspecting/greasing the u-joints, the u-joint splines, and greasing the splines/shaft at the prop. There's a long list of summarization/winterization inspection areas- I'll PM you what I go by for my '99 5.0 GL.

 

[mnjeepmale]

I don't see where you mentioned what outdrive you have, but I'm assuming its the SX-M? Lots of folks on the forum speak very highly of Amsoil's lube. Volvo Penta calls for either their VP synthetic gear lube (which is what I use), Mobilube 1SHC synthetic, or a SAE 75W-90 fully synthetic gear lube - so you are just fine. My SX-M takes 2.1 liters.

As for grease points from the outside at the stern and without removing any components, the gimbal zerk is the only access point that I can think of off the top of my head. You should be pulling the drive seasonally however and inspecting/greasing the u-joints, the u-joint splines, and greasing the splines/shaft at the prop. There's a long list of summarization/winterization inspection areas- I'll PM you what I go by for my '99 5.0 GL.

The outdrive is SX-M.

Thanks for the list. Still getting everything taken care of before it goes on the water. I need to take the water pump off as it's leaking a small amount of water. May need a new seal and replace the impeller while I'm at it.
The trim pump level is low. Was told I can use transmission fluid from NAPA or auto parts store to save a few bucks rather then buying at the marine store. That true?

 

[Bondo]

That true?

Ayuh,..... If it's red, it's Atf,......

'bout any oil thinner than 30W is just fine,....

Atf, Hyd. Oil, P/S oil, are all 'bout 10W oils,....

 

[Augoose]

Still can't PM mnjeepmale PDF docs for some reason - says "Invalid file data General Maint proceedures.pdf"

Bondo - any idea why that would be? Is it due to his user status?

 

[mnjeepmale]

Getting a new water pump for the boat. Doesn't look too difficult of a task to do.

Now need to figure out why some of the gauges are not stable. Some 'jerk' when the engine is running.

 

[dypcdiver]

Water pumps can be refurbished at about $80. New impeller new seal & new bearing. Plenty of instructions on this forum and videos on YouTube.

 

[mnjeepmale]

I bought a rebuilt pump since I don't have all the tools to rebuild mine.

What engine oil is suggested when doing an oil change?

 

[Augoose]

Originally[FONT=&quot]- 6 liters 20W/50 SAE (according to a more recent service bulletin, 15w40 is suggested now)[/FONT]

 

[mnjeepmale]

Originally[FONT=&quot]- 6 liters 20W/50 SAE (according to a more recent service bulletin, 15w40 is suggested now)[/FONT]

What oil do you use and filter?

 

[Augoose]

Most recently, I used Valvoline SynPower Full Synthetic Motor Oil SAE 20W-50
Oil filter - Fram PH-30 / cross-over Sierra P/N 18-7824
[FONT=&quot]Water fuel separator - Sierra PN 18-7789 / Volvo Penta 3862228[/FONT]