Still getting 12v to Coil after replacing resistor wire

[alldodge]

I suggest just rebuild or replace what you have, replace may be the best way to go. The Rochester 2GC model carbs are good little carbs, and while they do wear out like all of us, they are a solid carb if taken care of. There probably is an edlebrock but I don't know which model would be a direct swap.

 

[Fishermark]

....One little thing I forgot to mention. It may mean nothing at all but theses problems seem to happen when I'm at half empty tank of gas. Maybe its just always a coincidence but its always at this point when it does this.

Don't know if it is coincidental or not... but if you have a hole in your pick up tube you will experience a loss of fuel. It would be worth it to pull the pick up tube and ensure it is in good shape.

 

[chris mig]

As Stoney stated you must run 12v to the pertronic module not off the resistance wire to coil. As I just did this last month my motor never started so easy after this conversion. Or get a 12v coil and loose the resistance wire all together and feed both from choke purple wire

 

[tu1aher1]

All right thank you guys for the input. AllDodge I ordered the complete rebuild kit for my carb yesterday. I'll rebuild the carb. Fishmark, I'll pull the pickup tube inside the gas tank and check that out. And Chris mig, I'll run my positive wire from my electronic ignition to my purple choke wire. After all this I'll take it to the lake and write back my results. Thank you all again for all this help.

 

[bruceb58]

My suggestion is don't do everything at once so you know which helped and/or which screwed up things further.

 

[tu1aher1]

bruceb58, Ok well I can check the pickup tube in the gas tank and know right away if that was the issue. If not an issue I'll do the carb rebuild and keep the pentronics clone wired how it is then on the lake if I have any problems, I'll wire it to the purple choke wire there on the lake and see if that fixes it.

​By the way, how many posts does one have to post before they are no longer a Cadet? Just curious. I look around in the forums but could not find an answer.

 

[alldodge]

6-29 is a cadet 30-49 is seaman apprentice
Here is the rest of them, and can be found in the rules section
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/forum-rules-and-guidelines/282692-forum-rank-by-post-count

 

[chris mig]

I would wire the ignition correctly first cause it is wired wrong

 

[tu1aher1]

No Title

I have a partial update. I checked the feeder line in the 26 gal gas tank and it is a aluminum tube, not rubber or plastic. I took it out and looked it over very closely. I blew threw it and verified there were no holes or leaking air of any kind. I then removed the breather line for the tank and was able to blow through it with no obstruction. I then blew into the tank where it connects and I get solid pressure. I also visually inspected the breather tube and no kinks. So I have positively eliminated the fuel tank as a problem.

The Carb. I purchased a complete rebuild kit from mikescarb.com. It seems to be a respectable place with quality parts. It had videos for the tear down and the rebuild. I did verify that the accelerator pump was sticking while tearing down the carb. The carb did not have any laqure but it had sort of yellowish powder or (residue) inside that made it feel like it was very restrictive or abrasive. I cleaned the whole carb and got it nice and smooth. After putting it all back together the accelerator pump had smooth operation. I hope this fixes the problem. I'll know later today when I put it back on the boat.

I have a question for those familiar with the mercarb. Around the place where the float connects to the carb there is a metal square shield that only has three sides. It surrounds the main gas inlet and the pivot where the float connects. Look at the pic I included. It's part #15, I circled it in red. Well it was missing. I can only suppose that it was lost on a previous rebuild. Will this give me any problems? I know that this whole bowl is sealed and it looks like it's main function is to make the gas fill the bowl nice and smooth; but once the bowl was filled it looks like it would not matter. Anyway any input on this would be very much appreciated.

Thanks a lot for any help anyone can give me. I'll post back soon what my results are. I appreciate all the help so far!

 

[tu1aher1]

Well, I completed the carb rebuild and the engine purred like a kitten on muffs. I took the boat out Sunday to test it out before 4th of July get together with lots of people. I ran it for about 30 min on the lake and it did well. Yesterday for 4th of July I took it out pulling kids around on a tube for about 30 min and then at a steady speed of about 25 the motor just started cutting out again like it has done all along. I suspect the coil is bad but I'm not sure. I going to buy a 12 volt coil and see if that fixes it.

I know that the gas is eliminated as a problem. I know the carb is eliminated as a problem. It looks like it has to be electrical. I also wired the pentronixs clone to the electric choke before I set out. The motor runs well but after a while it will just cut out then after a while it will start up again for a while but then cut out again. The times I can go after cool off is gets shorter as the day go on. I did dip the coil in the lake to cool it off and the engine started right up for and ran for a short time. But this only worked a few times. Eventually nothing worked and I had to get a tow. Well I think it the coil so I guess I'll give that a shot. Any thoughts?

 

[alldodge]

If the boat still will not work you should be able to test and figure out what stopped. Would have been good if ya had a voltmeter to test when it was acting up

 

[Fishermark]

..... I also wired the pentronixs clone to the electric choke before I set out. The motor runs well but after a while it will just cut out then after a while it will start up again for a while but then cut out again.....

I don't remember if I posted in this thread or another - I have had great luck with the Pertronix brand kits. I have had BAD luck with the "hot spark" brand which looks just like the Pertronix. It did what you are describing - especially after a run. Everything would need to cool down and then it would work again. Not saying that is your problem, but it sure sounds like it to me. The Delco Voyager EST system is a much better ignition system in your situation.

 

[tu1aher1]

Yes AllDodge, It would have been. You see I did have one and I tried to read the voltage but my volt meter battery was dead. I could not believe it. The frustrating thing is I know that when I get home after work and put it on muffs and it will purr like a kitten again.

Fishermark: I would agree with you but this is the same problem that I've had even before I put the electronic ignition in. It did the same thing with the old points and condenser.

Talk about frustrating. I'll run it on muffs today at home and check the voltage to see what I get.

Could it be anything else? I'm at my wits ends.

 

[tu1aher1]

No Title

I have a very interesting update.

I syphoned all the gas out, removed the sending unit, and wiped the bottom of the 26 gal tank bone dry with a rag. I included a few pics. I then reinstalled the sending unit and for double protection I used RTV around the seal. I also installed a new fuel line because I discovered several cracks in the old on.

Well, a few posts above on page 2 I mentioned that there was a part missing in the carb when I rebuilt it and a replacement for that part was not in the replacement kit. Some kind of three-sided metal square shield around the main needle valve that the float rides on. Well for Sh**s and giggles I ordered the part but went ahead and put the carb back together for the 4th of July trip a couple of weeks ago.

The boat always ran good but did seem to idle a bit high around 1000 - 1100 no matter what needle setting on the carb. Well yesterday I finished this fuel tank job and double filtered the gas with a funnel that stops water but allows gas to go through. By the way, there was a little water in the tank but not a terrible amount.

Anyway a few days ago that small part came in and so yesterday after I finished the tank job I went ahead and installed this little shield. After I put it all back together and then on muffs I started it up and it ran beautifully. It literally sounded like a brand new engine. I could tell it was ideling around 700 to 800 RPM just as quiet and as smooth as could be. I never heard this engine run so smooth before. It was also very responsive.

What does this little part do? Is it possible that with out it when I was running the boat it was slowly flooding the main float chamber and this is why the boat would die at cruising speed?

The purpose of the part seemed to create a small primary gas chamber before flowing into the main float chamber where the float is. Any input on this would be much appreciated. I'm going back to the lake this weekend for a birthday party but I'm going to by a new coil to at least make it through the day. I just hope that this might have been my problem all along because the only last thing to do if the problem persists would be the buy the complete Delco conversion kit that has the new style coil and complete electronic distributor that they all started getting in 1990.

Any thoughts?

 

[alldodge]

Three things
1- Silicone is not gas resistant and over time will dissolve and the tank will leak. Suggest going to an auto store which sells cork gasket material and make your self another gasket

2- The tank appears to have all kinds of rust or crud in there, going to need to keep your filters changed at least yearly

3- The 3-sided plate keeps fuel from spraying on the float. IF the fuel sprays on the float it can cause it to bounce, and if it bounces it can over or under fill depending on how it hits the float

 

[tu1aher1]

Thank you AllDodge. I appreciate the info and the insight, especially on the gas tank. I will be posting an update how the boat ran Monday. It would be great if this metal plate has been my problem all along. I'll let you guys know.

 

[tu1aher1]

An update on boat after the carb rebuild. I took it out on the lake Saturday and the boat ran terrible. It was hard to start when getting it off the trailer which surprised me. I eventually got it started and drove it around the bend but then it died. I checked lots of things. I found that the problem seemed to be the carb. In the middle of the lake I took the carb apart and found that the float was hanging too far low. It must have happened when I put it back together, I'm not sure. I went ahead and adjusted it back to where it should be but after putting it all back together, it still ran rough. It ran better but not right. I got it started with some starter fluid sprayed in the carb and finally I got it to run but when I tried to give it some forward throttle, around 75%, the engine started cutting out.

I'm at the point where I think I should just purchase a rebuilt carb and just knock out that as an issue altogether.

I measured the voltage at the coil while the engine was running and I was only getting 4 to 6 volts which seems too low. I guess the resistor wire is working now. I thought at first this might be my problem. I was using a 12 coil so I went straight 12 volts from the battery to the coil to see if this would change anything but it didn't change anything. I had a couple of other coils with me that I had used in the past which were Sierra coils for the engine. I tried swapping them out but still no change.

Well that was that. Very disappointed.

 

[alldodge]

A rebuilt one may be the way to go but as another pointed out there can also be an issue with voltage and how your measuring it. The 4 to 6 volts is to low and will not get you a good spark. If the carb is still flooding (maybe not as bad) it will still run rough.

 

[tu1aher1]

Well gentlemen, I think I finally found the solution to the problem.

Since my last post I purchased rebuilt Rochester carb and put it on. It was running great on the trailer so last Saturday I took it out. I everything went fine in the no wake zone. As soon as I got it out and throttled up and on plane, the engine stopped. Stranded in the middle of the lake for about the 7th or 10th time, actually already lost count, I took off the fuel line to the carb and had my nephew crank out some gas in a clear plastic container, I saw that it was about 85% water and 15% gas. I have it at a boat place pumping out the tank to check it out the whole system. While there the mechanic saw that there was a missing gasket on the tank lid which happens to face upward and has a nice lip around the edge, perfect for catching water and funneling it into the tank. So every time it has rained water has been getting in the tank. He will remove the carb and flush it out and said it should be ready for Labor day weekend. He also told me that he has been getting a lot of this same problem with other people but its coming from the gas stations. He told me he a lot of gas stations have been putting a lot of water in peoples tanks. So what do you think?

 

[alldodge]

Glad you found the issue, but I don't see stations adding water. It would be easy enough to find the station doing it with all the cars that would stop running.