Volvo Penta 5.7GXI-A Stall

[Chris.ChrisCraft.03]

Hi All, I have an increasing Problem. Third year of owning this 2001 Chriscraft with Volvo Penta 5.7GXI-A .

First year one odd stall as I down throttled the boat. Never happened again, didn't think much of it.

Second year, Increase in frequency but did not happen all the time. Focused on the battery connections , which seamed to have the affect fixing the issue. Until the issue happened again. It happen maybe a third of the times we had the boat out.

Third year ( This Year) First time I had the boat out no issue, but the driving style may have abated the issue ( since it only happens at low RPM after it's been running). Have had the boat out two more times and it has happened both times and repeatedly.

Now here's What I know (or think I know) and how it happens (to the best of my knowledge):
- It does not stall on the initial boat around the lake, only after I have shut the engine down for anchoring or kids water sports.
- It does not happen at medium to full throttle or even moderate throttle. only at low rpm while motoring around.
- It has always restarted after a period of time. Not always the same amount of time. shortest a few minutes . longest 15+- minutes.
- When it happens all power to engine gauges and starter is gone, until that period of time is up, that allows it to start again.
- I still have power to the blower and boat accessories ( ie Nav Lights). But electrical power to anything engine related is dead.
- I did notice that my volt meter spiked to Zero at one point, but due to higher engine revs no stall. But Then Last Stall, I was watching and saw the Volt meter again spike to zero either just prior or in concert with the stall.
- I have replaced the battery terminal with no effect on the issue.
- It appears to be increasing in frequency.

Any Help would be greatly appreciated- Thanks Chris

 

[alldodge]

To many issues which in my opinion conflict.

It does not stall on the initial boat around the lake, only after I have shut the engine down for anchoring or kids water sports.

If it always does this when warmed up and after sitting I have a good idea.

Then you go into other things

When it happens all power to engine gauges and starter is gone, until that period of time is up, that allows it to start again

Paraphrase : voltmeter goes all over the place

If this is the case you have a very loose connection

 

[ericga]

What about the engine ground (stud behind the engine) ? Have you tested the battery with a tester (Solar BA or load tester)?

 

[Chris.ChrisCraft.03]

AllDodge- Thanks for the quick response. I agree that the symptoms (issues) are conflicting. Of the three you quoted, the one about the engine/gauges being dead, is the most absolute thing I know. It is as if there is a thermal breaker that needs time to cool down. And then after either a few minutes or as many as 15min , for no other reason than time, the gauges react when turning the key and it starts. I also agree at this time a loose connection is the most likely. Any other thoughts will be greatly appreciated.- Chris

 

[Chris.ChrisCraft.03]

EricGA, Thanks for the reply. I have only Volt metered the batteries. I will take a closer look at my tester to see if it can do Load or solar BA. What will I be looking for? The engine ground stud, is it down low under the engine or up high and accessible? Just trying to gauge if it is time to completely remove my engine hatch, to gain easier access to the rear of the engine. A loose ground would explain alot.

 

[Chris.ChrisCraft.03]

Another symptom that may or may not help. The out drive trim position indicator gauge "Somtimes" is "all over the place". as if that has a very bad ground or faulty sensor. The volt meter is steady as a rock except for the one time I saw it spike down just prior to a stall, because I was on the lookout . And then of course when it stalls all engine gauges go dead.

 

[alldodge]

Start by removing the battery cables, don't just look at them. Clean them to shinny metal, then do the same thing at the starter and the ground cable attached to the back of the block. Then remove the engine 10 pin connectors and clean those connections. There is a 50 amp breaker on the motor (red button) check those connections as well. Go all over the motor, then move to under the helm

 

[Chris.ChrisCraft.03]

That Fits with my thinking.... I will keep you posted.... Thanks Again for the Advise...

 

[ericga]

EricGA, Thanks for the reply. I have only Volt metered the batteries. I will take a closer look at my tester to see if it can do Load or solar BA. What will I be looking for? The engine ground stud, is it down low under the engine or up high and accessible? Just trying to gauge if it is time to completely remove my engine hatch, to gain easier access to the rear of the engine. A loose ground would explain alot.

"Solar BA5 or BA7" is an inexpensive battery tester that works very well. Simply connect to the battery, follow instructions and it will tell you if your battery is good or not. The engine ground is on the block and should be somewhere near/behind the coil.

 

[Chris.ChrisCraft.03]

Update..... The boat has spent some considerable time with my mechanic. After starting with the basics; connections, grounds, and the obvious. The likely culprit has been identified. The wiring harness. By visual inspection the harness across the top of the motor appeared to be in original condition. But not the case, just a careful re-tape job. There have been numerous damaged wires withing the harness that we have been addressed. not sure of the cause. Have not gone all out on the harness, but just in areas that we can create the symptom by manipulating the harness. I am getting the alternator rebuilt this week as that also presented with it's own set of symptoms; cutting out voltage at low rpm. Best guess at this time is any issues with the alternator are separate from anything found/fixed in the harness. Thanks for any and all responses on this issue.

 

[alldodge]

The alternator needs power supplied to the field windings and sense lead to create power. A loose connection in a harness can also cause the ALT to go haywire