Help wiring overheat alarm

[Rob406]

Hey guys I just ordered a buzzer/red light alarm that I want to wire up and am unsure quite how to do it. Electronics isn't my specialty... Motor in question is an 88 Force 50. I have found the heat switch and orange wire that runs up to the remote control. The switch I ordered is a Cole Hersee 4112-RC Flashing Buzzer Alarm with two poles and says in the directions you can wire the polarity either way. Do I just connect my orange wire to one pole and ground the other pole to the negative post on my battery? The diagram's got me a little confused as it says Battery Positive then the switch then either pole on the buzzer, and the other one goes to ground. The heat switch in my motor is already powered correct?

Also while I'm on the topic is there a way to test the heat switch in the motor?

Thanks for the help !!!

 

[sam am I]

Couple things..........

Do I just connect my orange wire to one pole and ground the other pole to the negative post on my battery?

The OT switch ("heat switch") when over temp'd just closes a simple switch inside the sender. If the sender body is threaded/held to the engine, then when the internal switch closes due to over temp, it just grounds the orange wire to the engine block.

So no, in this (your i assume) case you'll have to hook up the "other pole" to the battery positive in order to have it go off when over temp'd

Battery Positive then the switch then either pole on the buzzer, and the other one goes to ground.

If i understand this correctly......this sounds to be the optional case (two wire sender typically) that if your sender is the type/wired where when, over heated, the sender's internal switch closes, it will send 12VDC to the buzzer as opposed to ground as explained above .

The heat switch in my motor is already powered correct?

See abvoe

is there a way to test the heat switch in the motor?

"in the motor"? not really......Out of the motor......yes but, removed. You can try boiling water but since it limits at around 212F normally at atmosphere and if your sender is spec'd to closes at say 235F, you might struggle just using boiling water, ya might have to use a soldering iron or something that'll get up high enoug in temp but not melt it of course.

You should hear/feel it snap sometimes but ya might just use a ohm meter connected to the body and the orange and just use continuity tests before/during/after you heat it up. Once heated up over the spec and it's closed, the resistance will go open to 0'ish (zero) ohms

 

[Rob406]

Thanks Sam. The "OT Switch" is held to the motor with a circlip. So Orange wire to one side of the buzzer and the other side of the buzzer to Battery positive? Should I use an inline fuse on the positive side?

 

[sam am I]

You're quite welcome sir,

Correct......and yes fuse right close to the battery If you're powering the buzzer straight off the battery positive. Can you however find an switched ignition 12V source? Purple wire typically.........Usually switched Ig power is already fused, plus you won't have power to the buzzer when the boat is not in use.