Johnson seahorse 115

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Mar 20, 2012
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I just bought a 73 sea Sprite with a 70's Johnson sea horse 115. Before I bring it to the lake I want to make sure all is working as it should. When I put the earmuffs on and turn on the water a small stream comes out the lower side. When I fire the motor I don't see any differance in water exiting the motor and am concerned the cooling system is not working. The cylinder walls get pretty hot after a few minutes so I shut it off. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 

boobie

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Seeing you just bought it I'd replace the water pump and housing.
 

oldboat1

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^^^second that. Add that an infrared heat gun is a nice tool to have on hand -- surface temp on the tops of the heads shouldn't be too hot to touch. Should run around 130F-140F (maybe less), but never over 160F.
 

emdsapmgr

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The common water telltale first came out around 1978. Hard to tell on this earlier unit-just what is going on with the cooling system, so here is a test: Start the engine from cold. Let it run on the trailer. Hold the palm of your hand by the two exhaust relief holes at the top of the midsection. After about a minute or so, the thermostat (vernatherm) will open. Once the stat opens, water droplets will begin to form on the palm of your hand. (a light water mist will exit through the exhaust relief holes.) This means the stat is open and the cooling system is functioning normally.
 
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Thanks all! I got her on the water today and it ran great for awhile. I did not see any water exiting the motor but when I took the hood off the cylinder heads were touchable no problem. Towards the end of the day the motor would fire but then shut off after 10 seconds of mild acceleration. I would need to use the warm up lever to get it to fire and stay running. What's up with that? Also, I am going to try and upload some pics but if it dosnt work, is it normal for some oil and oil gas mixture to leak out of a few differant spots on the motor? No major leaks, just seeping. Finally, when I changed the gear oil this morning there were metal shavings on the plug/magnet. Should I be concerned? I was told this motor has less then 20hrs on it since a complete rebuild from a racing shop near Chicago. It looks almost new. Thanks again for any help.
 

oldboat1

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Strange you wouldn't include that info. in your post. Rebuilt motors require break-in, and a richer oil mix. I would take a compression test before proceeding, and post anything else you have about the history -- PO use, l.u. rebuild history, any PO report of issues and use....
 

emdsapmgr

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These old crossflows do tend to leak. You will want to be sure the airbox drain hose is connected to the crankcase. That way any excess airbox fuel/oil will get recirculated back into the engine for combustion. Replace the airbox gasket between the two halves. They tend to leak with age. Pump up the fuel hose bulb and check for fuel leaks around each hose connection. (none of the original hoses were made to handle today's ethanol fuels-you may need to replace them.) Each year when I change my gear oil, there are a few small metal shavings on the drain plug magnet. Keep in mind, there is not really a clutch on this engine. When shifted, the gears actually collide with each other as they engage. This is a rather mild collision each time, but some metal fragments may come off the clutch dog or the gear. Normal. A good owner will try to keep the normal idle rpm as low as possible in order to minimize the violence of he shift collision. However, some residual metal fragments are created during the many shifts of the lower unit each summer. Clean off the magnet during the annual oil change and replace it. Also, note the quality of the color of the gear oil. Should be a clear color. Black oil indicates there is stress inside the gear cavity. (from overheating or low oil in the cavity.)
 
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Mar 20, 2012
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Strange you wouldn't include that info. in your post. Rebuilt motors require break-in, and a richer oil mix. I would take a compression test before proceeding, and post anything else you have about the history -- PO use, l.u. rebuild history, any PO report of issues and use....

I the only history I have is what the seller told me. He bought the motor from a professional motor rebuild company. It has less then 20hrs on it since the rebuild. It has not been used in 3-4 years. How do I perform a compression test?
 
Joined
Mar 20, 2012
Messages
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These old crossflows do tend to leak. You will want to be sure the airbox drain hose is connected to the crankcase. That way any excess airbox fuel/oil will get recirculated back into the engine for combustion. Replace the airbox gasket between the two halves. They tend to leak with age. Pump up the fuel hose bulb and check for fuel leaks around each hose connection. (none of the original hoses were made to handle today's ethanol fuels-you may need to replace them.) Each year when I change my gear oil, there are a few small metal shavings on the drain plug magnet. Keep in mind, there is not really a clutch on this engine. When shifted, the gears actually collide with each other as they engage. This is a rather mild collision each time, but some metal fragments may come off the clutch dog or the gear. Normal. A good owner will try to keep the normal idle rpm as low as possible in order to minimize the violence of he shift collision. However, some residual metal fragments are created during the many shifts of the lower unit each summer. Clean off the magnet during the annual oil change and replace it. Also, note the quality of the color of the gear oil. Should be a clear color. Black oil indicates there is stress inside the gear cavity. (from overheating or low oil in the cavity.)

This is great information. I will look over the items you mentioned. I'm sure there is a manual to be found somewhere on here. Unfortunately the gear oil was dark. I think I will change it again and see how it looks after the little use it got yesterday. I will also change the points as it has been in storage for 3-4 years. Any ideas on why it was stalling out?
 

emdsapmgr

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If you change your gear oil annually each fall, it should be ok. (or every 100 hours of run time.) You have not mentioned it, but considering the age of the engine, you might want to tear the carbs down and overhaul them. That means tearing them down far enough to remove all the jets. Do a visual on all the jets, then replace. Keep in mind that there is nothing that will clean out old dried fuel other than a good carb cleaner. I've had luck with an aerosol product called GUMOUT.
 
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If you change your gear oil annually each fall, it should be ok. (or every 100 hours of run time.) You have not mentioned it, but considering the age of the engine, you might want to tear the carbs down and overhaul them. That means tearing them down far enough to remove all the jets. Do a visual on all the jets, then replace. Keep in mind that there is nothing that will clean out old dried fuel other than a good carb cleaner. I've had luck with an aerosol product called GUMOUT.

Thanks. It was completely rebuilt in 2008 and has been in storage for all but around 20hrs of use since then. The carbs may indeed need a cleaning. I don't have time for this project at the moment and am hoping to bring the boat to a family reunion where it will be used daily for a week. Has anybody had any luck with fuel additives to help clean the carbs? I used an auxiliary fuel tank for yesterday's maiden voyage but would like to use the boats 15gallon aluminum tank next. Anything I should add with the first fill up other then a quart of oil? Thanks again
 

oldboat1

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JMO, but for short term use like a vacation or special occasion, the better way is to rent a rig. It isn't cheap these days, but a better way to go if you need something quickly -- particularly if you will not be working on it. The other way is to buy a new rig from a reputable dealer, and use it briefly while in reach of the dealer. Your rebuilt may be a good one, but need some testing and tinker time to know -- and might act up when you want to use it for a few days, or not be up to Uncle Charlie's critical eye.

exhaust nasties in the leg are normal, but can indicate something about condition -- maybe rich running if a PO was running it that way for break in. Shavings in the l.u. can be questionable (but often normal), and stalling or other running issues on a used or rebuilt motor would need to be addressed -- may be operator handbook issues, or something to be fixed. You can rent or borrow a compression tester to check the overall condition of the motor (look for compression to be roughly equal between cylinders), and I would do that if you are going to try to prep the motor at all. Permanent tanks are a problem in a boat that has not been used regularly (water and other contamination). The remedy is emptying and cleaning, and probably installing a water separating filter. All normal stuff, but have to get up close and personal or pay somebody do it.

I would get Uncle Charlie to go halvies on a rental.
 
Joined
Mar 20, 2012
Messages
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JMO, but for short term use like a vacation or special occasion, the better way is to rent a rig. It isn't cheap these days, but a better way to go if you need something quickly -- particularly if you will not be working on it. The other way is to buy a new rig from a reputable dealer, and use it briefly while in reach of the dealer. Your rebuilt may be a good one, but need some testing and tinker time to know -- and might act up when you want to use it for a few days, or not be up to Uncle Charlie's critical eye.

exhaust nasties in the leg are normal, but can indicate something about condition -- maybe rich running if a PO was running it that way for break in. Shavings in the l.u. can be questionable (but often normal), and stalling or other running issues on a used or rebuilt motor would need to be addressed -- may be operator handbook issues, or something to be fixed. You can rent or borrow a compression tester to check the overall condition of the motor (look for compression to be roughly equal between cylinders), and I would do that if you are going to try to prep the motor at all. Permanent tanks are a problem in a boat that has not been used regularly (water and other contamination). The remedy is emptying and cleaning, and probably installing a water separating filter. All normal stuff, but have to get up close and personal or pay somebody do it.

I would get Uncle Charlie to go halvies on a rental.

Thanks for the info. The tank appears clean and dry and the engine "mostly" runs great! I am probably going to go against the wind and bring her to the reunion. I'll fill up this week (14ish gallons to 1 quart) plus some sea foam or something similar and test her out on the lake. other then the stall outs at low speed (at the end of the day), the motor ran great. I'll put in new points as well.
 
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