5.0L OMC won't plane, but reaching full RPMs

Joined
Jul 3, 2016
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6
Hey guys,

I just joined the forum, as I recently picked up a 1990 Christ Craft 218, that is in awesome condition (other than the engine issue I'm currently experiencing). Hopefully I'll be able to contribute to the forum in the future, as I'm quite familiar with many of the automotive equivalent engines.

I have had the boat on the water twice. The first time, it wouldn't reach more than 2000 RPMs. It would hit 2000 with little throttle input, and no more with more throttle input. As it wasn't bogging down with more throttle, we thought a fuel issue was likely. I didn't do much, other than change the fuel/water separator, and attempt to change the fuel filter at the carb, but instead found only a screen, which I cleaned and reinstalled.

The second time on the water, the boat reached full RPMs (based on the specs on the spark arrestor cover, which specify max RPM of 4000-4400 at WOT). We tried both props (a 15 x 15, and a 15 x 17), with one reaching about 4200 and the other 4400, which seemed to make a lot of sense. However, the boat doesn't come close to reaching plane with either prop. It got closer when two guy got as far forward as possible, but still didn't make it. As far as I can tell, there was little no no water in the boat. After being nose up for a couple hours, I would think any retained water was pushed out by the bilge, and there was never more than an inch or so in the bilge area. Trim was all the way down as well.

I am at a loss at this point. I thought that a spun hub could be the issue, if it was only spun enough to slip under load, but not by hand), but it seems unlikely that both would be spun, but still show otherwise predictable characteristics. While running at WOT, we advanced the timing blindly, increasing the RPMs close to 5000, which increased the speed and brought the boat much closer to plane, but we experienced backfiring at that point as it was far too advanced. We also tried dumping a little more fuel into the carb at WOT, which caused a momentary bogging (not much point to that, but it was one of our planned tests if we experienced a lack of RPMs again on this trip).

FWIW, the boat has sat since fall of 2014, which is leading us to think that there may still be a fuel delivery issue, like something gummed up in the carb, but it otherwise runs perfectly...just not quickly.

Any ideas?
 

bobkat1864

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Apr 1, 2012
Messages
83
Hi there. To test for a spun prop, make a mark across the center of the prop and hub with a waterproof marker, then go for a ride...afterword, see if the marks no longer line up. I would also recommend that you weigh the boat at a scale, to see if you have water in either the foam flotation or the transom. Compare the scale result to the boat builders spec weight to see if she is heavy. Sometimes the foam will absorb, and hold a lot of water, and that adds weight. Let us know what you find, and good luck.
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... You are trimmin' the drive full down, Right,..??

With a 6' straightedge, under the hull, see how true, straight, 'n flat the hull is, from the transom, forward the 1st 4' to 6',.....

I suspect yer gonna see air 'tween the hull, 'n straightedge, a hook in the hull, causin' the no plane problem,.....
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2016
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We solved the problem this afternoon. We decided to start with the basics, rather than jumping ahead to other possible causes. We found that two opposing cylinders weren't firing. It sounded fine to us, but it has been running that way since I bought it, so I didn't have a correct bench mark. The plugs at the two cylinder in question just fell apart while we removing them. After replacing them, it started much quicker and sounded much better. Got it out on the water and it planed right out.

The only issue now is a little stumbling/hesitation after attempting to throttle up after an extended full throttle run. I'm guessing it is probably a carb adjustment issue.

Thank you for the replies everyone! I am worried about it holding water, as the recessed area where the 5 gallon water tank for the sink would sit now has standing water again, after I sucked it out the other day.
 

alldodge

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little stumbling/hesitation after attempting to throttle up after an extended full throttle run

If it only happens after a WOT run and not when just throttling up from a normal cruise, I would check your fuel pump pressure. If it happens most the time, I it may just need another accelerator pump
 
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If it only happens after a WOT run and not when just throttling up from a normal cruise, I would check your fuel pump pressure. If it happens most the time, I it may just need another accelerator pump


I'll look into that. The accelerator pump seems to work good though...definitely two full streams of fuel coming out. I had it out today, and it did the same thing again once after about two hours of mostly close to WOT runs. This time, however, it took about 20 minutes before it would get past 3000 RPMs and back to normal. It would attempt to rev up, but then kind of bog down. I could nurse it up to about 3k, but no more. Eventually it back fired a couple of times and then took off like normal again. Those symptoms sound like a carb issue to me, especially with the back firing, but otherwise a lack of fuel also seems likely. It looks like it will be a pain testing the fuel pressure, since there's a hard line from the pump to the carb.

We also found that the 17 pitch prop has a spun hub. We had more weight today, and it ran at about 5000 RPMs. When we stopped to switch to the other prop we noticed the line we made no longer lined up.
 

alldodge

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This sounds like the fuel pump, clogged fuel filter or other restriction. Checking the fuel pressure would need to get an adapter to screw into the crab from the local auto store. Then make up a Tee with fuel line and adapter and attach to a vacuum fuel pump tester. Pressure should be 4 to 7 psi

Or get one of these for the quick attach, Merc number 91-18078. Might also find it at the local store 91-18078 fuel fitting.jpg
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2016
Messages
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This sounds like the fuel pump, clogged fuel filter or other restriction. Checking the fuel pressure would need to get an adapter to screw into the crab from the local auto store. Then make up a Tee with fuel line and adapter and attach to a vacuum fuel pump tester. Pressure should be 4 to 7 psi

Or get one of these for the quick attach, Merc number 91-18078. Might also find it at the local store


Man, with how tight the metal line is, I'm not even sure how there would be room for that. But that is a great idea, so I'll rig something up. Would be nice to check pressure before and during the issue. I agree that it is one of the things you mentioned. Some other threads found the culprit to be a clogged fuel pickup, or even clogged gas tank vent. I'll be checking all of these things soon. Always nice when the issue is likely a cheap one to fix. Thanks!
 
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alldodge

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You could temporarily replace the steel line with gas line with using a couple fittings
carb fitting.jpg

The pump end with be NPT
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
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May 24, 2004
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13,831
Pull the fuel bowl and metering block off the carb, remove the power valve from the metering block and check for blockage(gum/varnish) of the power enrichment circuit
 
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