Good batteries w/power to solenoid, no power to console fuses/trim controller

[Scooterb]

I lost electrical power yesterday while cycling the ignition switch from "accessory" to "run". The audible chime came on for less than a second when I went to the "run" position (noticably shorter chime), then nothing when ignition switch shifted to "start" position. All console power was out as well as the ability to control the trim motor. This is key as the trim motor works independent of the ignition being in "off" or "run".
There is 12.8V on both batteries as well as at the starter solenoid contact from the battery. The 50 amp fuse on the 5.7L VP has 12.8V on both contacts. Is there a relay or another fuse between power source and cannon plug? If so, where is(are) it(they) located? I have no power at the console fuse box or at ignition switch contacts, therefore I deduct the loss of electical continuity is between the starter solenoid and cannon plug. Any advise is appreciated.

 

[alldodge]

Howdy

Probably needs to be in the VP section, but tell us what VP motor you have

 

[Scooterb]

5.7L GSI, 2000 Four Winns Horizon 230

 

[Scooterb]

Howdy

Probably needs to be in the VP section, but tell us what VP motor you have

I don't have a diagram of the electric circuits for my boat, although I am miffed on the power situation since I know the trim motor doesn't require the ignition circuit to operate. I'm leaning towards a bad Instrument/Controls power relay or perhaps fuse. Problem is, I have no idea where such relay/fuse may be, or if one exists in my boat's electrical circuits. The electrical power loss occurred as if a relay/fuse blew and I don't think its a loose/corroded wire that gave way. I had been boating all day and cycled the engine on/off a few times previously. We were listening to music with the ignition in "accessory" position and when I turned the ignition switch to "off" then "run", the normal chime came on momentarily...then nothing. I have 12.8V to the starter solenoid, so we know power source isn't the problem.

 

[bruceb58]

There will be a breaker on the starboard riser. That is the only thing between the engine and the console. Once at the console, you will have an ignition fuse. You need to check both of those. Sounds like you did check the breaker.

Using your meter, measure from the console fuse panel to the battery negative terminal and see what you get. You will need a long test lead. That will allow you to know if it is a ground issue.

 

[Silvertip]

But the power source IS the problem since everything is dead. You said you checked both sides of the main circuit breaker. Did you check to make sure those connections (line and load side) and actually clean and tight. What happens if you put a voltmeter on the breaker (either side) and while watching it, turn the key to RUN or START. If voltage drops like a rock, you have dead batteries. Yes -- you can measure 12 volts on a battery that does not have enough current remaining to power the loads. If connections are ok, then follow the connection on the load side of the breaker. It probably goes to a junction somewhere.That line is what feeds everything in the boat related to the engine. Some boats have a separate power feed for the "boat-side" circuits such as horn, bilge pumps, accessories, etc. I suspect yours does not because it would be highly unusual for both the "boat" and "engine" circuits to die simultaneously.

 

[Scooterb]

I have dual batteries and have not experienced any slow cranking at any time. We have been boating all summer as well as the day the problem occurred, and I don't have any instrument power at all...ie, nav lights, horn, trim, ignition, radio. Even if I had a battery going dead, there would be some power to those components and I'd hear clicking at the starter. I can't detect a voltage drop because there is no power to the ignition switch.
I have plenty of Vs to check continuity of the circuity and aside from the 50amp circuit breaker (which has been verified with 12.8V on both contacts, I question if there is another relay/fuse prior to the cannon plug?
I keep going back to a instrument/controls relay that may have gone out as it makes sense I'd have power at the 50amp breaker, although nothing on any instruments, including the trim controls (trim operates independent from ignition).
None of the console fuses are blown. Perhaps the 5amp fuses would have blown had there been a short in the wire harness? the symptoms align perfectly if there is an I/C relay that went bad. Just don't know enough about boat circuitry and locations to figure it out blind.

 

[bruceb58]

I question if there is another relay/fuse prior to the cannon plug?

There is not.

Time to check all your grounds.

 

[Scooterb]

I suppose its time to pull apart the cannon plug and test each pin for power. If all pins are powered and clean, then the problem is an open circuit in the harness. If I don't have power at the cannon plug, the circuit is open between the 50amp breaker and plug. A circuit diagram would be good about now....

 

[bruceb58]

Just measuring the voltage is not going to tell you if you have a highly resistive connection somewhere.

 

[Scooterb]

Just measuring the voltage is not going to tell you if you have a highly resistive connection somewhere.

good point. Once I find voltage, I'll check resistance across that wire or find the spot the circuit is open.

 

[Scooterb]

Well everyone, lesson learned today.. Note to all do-it-yourselfers,when chasing the plethora of positive wire troubleshooting possibilities, take a minute to ensure the battery circuit is grounded. Yes, I'm a dummy for not checking the negative terminal screw first as it was slightly loose. I told my wife this is equivalent of troubleshooting my computer hardware and looking for a problem, when plugging the power cord into the outlet would have solved everything!!!
Thank you for all those that read and commented. I shall walk the hall of shame all the way to my boat, then go for a ride and forget it ever happened!

 

[Scooterb]

Just measuring the voltage is not going to tell you if you have a highly resistive connection somewhere.

you were spot on....I had a highly resisitive connection, er, disconnection.

 

[alldodge]

I shall walk the hall of shame all the way to my boat,

I'm a gold member of that club, great to hear you got it

 

[bruceb58]

That's great! There are good reasons we suggest the things we do. We have all run into the same issues.