King Cobra won't go Forward

RZach

Recruit
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
4
I have a 1992 Four Winns Horizon 200 with a Ford 351 / 5.8L with a King Cobra outdrive. I am the 3rd owner of this boat and, for a 24 year old boat, it is in immaculate condition. It has performed very well for us over the last 8 years, being used 30 to 50 times per summer.

Last year, we had our first problem with the boat not going into forward gear. I diagnosed that down to being a bad shift cable from the engine mount to the outdrive. I pulled the outdrive and replaced that cable and resolved the problem. Just now, however, a year later, the problem has come back. Now, I am fairly certain that the problem is a mechanical problem inside the gear system of the outdrive. I say that because, I disconnected the cable at the engine mount and operated it by hand and was able to get the boat to go into forward gear. Initially, when I was able to get the boat to go into forward gear by pushing the cable all the way in by hand (taking out any influence of any adjustments), I thought it must just be an adjustment issue.... because it worked manually. Then, however, I had an unfortunate turn of events. We were moving down the lake at WOT (45 mph)... with the cable still disconnected at the engine mount and pushed into the forward gear position by hand and, after we slowed to a stop... and tried to accelerate again, the boat would not go and the gear system had gone back into Neutral with the cable still in the same position! To me, that points to either something being wrong with the Cone Clutch assembly or, perhaps, the levers and linkages that react to the cable position and actuate the shifting through the wall of the upper gear housing.

After lots of reading on these Cobra and King Cobra outdrives, it sounds like I am fortunate in that mine is one with the Cone Clutch (has the hump on the top of the drive) and it is not one of the more troubled units with the Clutch Dog. I have read (don't know if its true) that the type I have is nearly indestructible.

After all of that background, here are my questions:

1.) Anybody know of a good OMC outdrive mechanic in Colorado or a nearby state? All boat repair places I have contacted have said they will not work on older boats now, as they have all the business they can handle with newer boats.

2.) If I do find a mechanic and the problem turns out to be a gear or clutch cone problem, would the repair likely be so much that I should consider just installing a brand new outdrive?

3.) Anybody know of a good outdrive (Volvo Penta Perhaps) that would just bolt right on to my setup?

As I mentioned above, this is a really nice, well maintained boat and, if I could put upwards of $4,000 into to it to return it to operation, I would do that. I was just looking at brand new boats of the same capacity (power and people) and they are over $80,000!!! Makes $4,000 seem really cheap!

Oh.. one more thing....

4.) I noticed a tiny amount of water actually bubbling out from the end of the cable (between the cable and housing) when I actuated it by hand. When I replaced the cable last year, I noticed that the shift housing compartment on the side of the outdrive appeared to have not been keeping the water out, as it had water / mineral looking stains inside. I replaced the seal, but was still skeptical that the compartment would actually be water tight. Now, seeing water coming up the cable and out the end, however, tiny the drops... thats seems like strong evidence that the compartment on the other end is, indeed, not water tight.

Could water getting inside that compartment, be causing this issue in some way? Seems to me like the shifting operation would still work ok, but who knows?


Sorry for the long post, but I am running out of options on what to do about this and thought I would try this just to see if anyone had any advice?

Thanks for any advice anyone may be able to provide!

Bob
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
After lots of reading on these Cobra and King Cobra outdrives, it sounds like I am fortunate in that mine is one with the Cone Clutch (has the hump on the top of the drive) and it is not one of the more troubled units with the Clutch Dog. I have read (don't know if its true) that the type I have is nearly indestructible.


1.) Anybody know of a good OMC outdrive mechanic in Colorado or a nearby state? All boat repair places I have contacted have said they will not work on older boats now, as they have all the business they can handle with newer boats.

2.) If I do find a mechanic and the problem turns out to be a gear or clutch cone problem, would the repair likely be so much that I should consider just installing a brand new outdrive?

3.) Anybody know of a good outdrive (Volvo Penta Perhaps) that would just bolt right on to my setup?

Howdy Bob,

Welcome aboard!

Well, I am sorry to report that you would actually be better off with the dog-clutch Cobra.
The one you have is also known as the "Interim" cone clutch model.

It would help by the way if you posted your model number.

Although if yours has the 'hump", I think yours is one of two: (all the rest of the 92/91 models you could have are "dogs")
584DPEAMH 1992
584DPEAMK 1992

The problem is that the after market doesn't fully support the NON-Volvo cone-clutch drive very well.

You also have a Ford engine, while still supported somewhat, parts are getting hard(er) and more expensive to obtain.

Very few dealers will even touch an OMC because they don't want it coming back!

In 2005, I bought a Four Winns 211 Liberator (OMC 460 King Cobra powered) from my brother. In 2006, I installed a 1997 Mercruiser 454 Bravo III and parted out all the OMC "stuff"


Without going into all the things you might be able to do to eke a few more years out of your OMC package, (AND IF the boat is as "nice" as you say)......... It would be worth it now to pull all the OMC stuff out and replace it with either a used Mercruiser OR Volvo (GM) engine/drive package

That Horizon model is a fairly big boat so I would consider MPI/MAG 5.7L Bravo I or even "III" drives or Volvo Penta 5.7L + SX or Duoprop drives.

I cannot help you find someone that might be able to work on your drive. Just about all the people that might have been to school at OMC for that model are retired (or deceased!)

If your engine + drive was a tad newer, it would be a VP SX which is completely supported today (although the Ford engine is still problematic)

You can certain;y have your drive rebuilt if the shifting problem is internal ....They'll either rebuild yours or exchange it, but it won't be cheap.
http://www.allamericandriveservice.com/OMCCobra.html
https://powerboatlimited.com/product...mc-king-cobra/

I wish I could tell you how to easily fix it.......and your fix could be as simple as replacing/adjusting your shift cable again. But the above problems remain.

I spent 5000 for the engine and drive (bought from a wind damaged boat) for my installation and did the entire installation myself. If I hadn't done the work myself, it may not have been worth it!


Regards,


Rick
 
Last edited:

RZach

Recruit
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
4
Thanks for your detailed reply Rick. Very informative! If I could repower the boat (motor + drive) with a fairly new setup for $5 to $7K, I would do it. I am still amazed at how well this boat has held up over the years. Barely a nick in the vinyl anywhere! It is a pain though to, everytime we run it, be wondering and worrying about what must be about to give up the ghost after 24 years of life!

On your conversion, how hard was it to get the motor mounts to work and to get the drive system to go through the stern without leaking?

On my current issue, I found an old time OMC / King Cobra mechanic that says that the gears in my unit are "very strong" and would only rarely need to be replaced. He also said it is very likely all it needs it to be taken apart and for the forward drive cup to be resurfaced with lapping compound to remove the burnished/glazed surface. He said he has fixed this problem many times on King Cobras with no part replacement at all. He said the "per the book" instructions that you have to change out the gears is BS.

He also said that the type of gear lube is critical.

Another mechanic, the guy I found nearby that will do the work, said I should try Merc High Performance Gear Lube before doing anything else, so I am going to try that first. (I doubt it will fix my problem though.)

Then, after still experiencing the problem with the new lube (which I do predict), I am going to buy a new Cone Clutch for $450 and have the mechanic do the lapping compound procedure and install the new Cone Clutch.

After both of those fail, which would not surprise me, I am going to investigate the new power setup.

As I mention above, similar size and power new boats are so crazy expensive.... And I dont even like the design as much (too cramped), that I think it would be worth it to spend 1/10th as much and essentially have a new boat!

Thanks Again

Bob
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Thanks for your detailed reply Rick. Very informative! If I could repower the boat (motor + drive) with a fairly new setup for $5 to $7K, I would do it.
He also said that the type of gear lube is critical.


As I mention above, similar size and power new boats are so crazy expensive.... And I dont even like the design as much (too cramped), that I think it would be worth it to spend 1/10th as much and essentially have a new boat!

Thanks Again

Bob

Bob,

I can tell you right now that gear lube is really not all that critical as long as you use what they recommend. In reality, there is no "marine" (NMMA) specification for drive lubricant. Just about all the marine manufacturers recommend GL-5 hypoid (non-limited-slip) gear oil. (Of course they always claim their own branded oil is best!!)

Some of us like to use synthetic. Merc HP is great, as is AM$OIL, Mobil-1 75W-90, Volvo Penta synthetic etc.

The key with gear lubricant is to replace it yearly and do it correctly(As per the OEM manual) . fill that drive incorrectly and you could destroy it. (from an air bubble breaking loose and causing the oil level to drop below the upper gears/bearings etc.)

Yes, you can easily swap all the OMC stuff out and replace with Mercruiser or Volvo. (I Like Merc because there's FAR more used stuff on eBay and other places for them)

Absolutely nothing wrong with Volvo though.

Because the (side) engine mounts might be different, you might have to do a little fiberglass work to relocate where they are. I had to move mine slightly going from the 460 to the 454. had to fill the old lag-bolt holes (with epoxy/fiberglass) and drill new ones. Your boat was likely offered with other engines, so they made the engine mounts points big enough to accommodate the different engines.

You would also want to make sure that your transom is NOT soft or rotted. You could inspect the cutout once you had the engine and transom mount removed. If the transom itself is actually rotted, you would need to replace it. That is a major job though and you would have to decide if it was worth it.

The best bet is to find a damaged (hull) boat with a late 90's early to mid 2000's boat with the engine and drive you want. (I would choose a 350 MAG, 383, 454, 496 + a Bravo I or III for your boat) You could also find a similarly powered Volvo SX + 5.7/7.4/8.1/8.2L engine + drive. The Volvo stuff is just a little harder to find on the used market.

When I did my repower, I even considered getting a new engine/drive package. Both the Mercruiser and Volvo (Big Block) packages were about $24,000 PLUS installation.

Probably not very practical to go new though..........

I found mine on Craigslist.

As I mention above, similar size and power new boats are so crazy expensive.... And I dont even like the design as much (too cramped), that I think it would be worth it to spend 1/10th as much and essentially have a new boat!
Yeah, and the taxes and registration and insurance for a new boat would be a lot more money each year too. My 87 model boat registration is approx $30/yr and the trailer is about the same!

You could get your drive rebuilt and you'd probably not have any more problems but some parts for that drive are NLA.

Another thing you might investigate is changing over to a Volvo SX drive, but I think that would entail changing the gimbal mount, inner transom plate, flywheel cover, flywheel, starter and possibly other "stuff" (I think the OMC/VP SX drive was available behind a 5.8L Ford up to 95 or 96) .............Again, you'd need to find another similarly sized damaged boat to "rob" parts from............ I am pretty sure you cannot just bolt an SX to that transom mount.

Now, having said all the above, you may still only have a lower shift cable/adjustment problem. I would at least investigate that before pulling the drive and rebuilding it........ If you can fix it well enough to use for the rest of the season, you can concentrate on finding that perfect replacement package.
 

RZach

Recruit
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
4
Thanks Again Rick!

More good info! I did not realize brand new motor and drive was so expensive!

I did make one more discovery on my situation.

Whilr changing my gear lube (to Mecury High Performance) .... I found that my fill plug on the top was loose. Not sure but it may have been loose enough to allow a small amount of water to get into the drive. The oil was not white and milky (whigh would be indicative of water), but it did have a lot of bubbles from tiny pin point in size to about 1/16" in diameter.

I dont know if a small amount of water may have caused the bubbles or if, maybe, the slipping cone clutch can cause frothing.

When I filled the unit last year, I pumped the lube in from the bottom and was able to put exactly the amount in (103 oz) that is spec'd for the drive, so I dont think there was a trapped air bubble.

Atter installing the new lube, the unit (as it always does on the muffs in my driveway.... Only fails after heating up on the water) operated normally and shifted from N to F to R with the prop reacting and moving as if should. The unit has always clunked into R and been silent into D, however, with this new lube I am getting a slightly audible clunk into D, which, I hope, may mean there is a bit more grip on the F side of the cone.

I really don't think my problem is resolved, but I am hoping that my loose fill plug may have let a tiny amount of water into the drive and compromised the lube just enough that it exposed the more worn side of the cone (the F side) and the new lube may, at least, keep us running for the rest of the summer. Wishfull thinking I expect!

I am going to test the boat on the lake today. My prediction is it will start out working normally making me think it is fixed, only to fail after some time at WOT. Then, it will be gear lapping and new cone clutch time!

Thanks Again

Bob
 

RZach

Recruit
Joined
Jul 24, 2015
Messages
4
Update after change of gear lube.... As usual at the start before the drives warms the boat went forward fine.... Actually seemed to have a tad bit higher top end as if it may have been slipping less. Then, after slowing down to idle (without going to neutral) then trying to accelerate again, lost forward gear again. I put the Trim full up and I could see that the prop was actually spinning, just very slowly, I assume because the cone clutch was slipping a lot.

Sooooo..... Now its $450 for a new cone clutch and a 1 hour drive to the only mechanic I have found that has the special tools (and willingness) needed to work on this rare drive. He says it will be about $600 in labor to replace the cone and apply lapping compound to the cups in the bottom of the gears (the mating surface for the cone clutch for forward and reverse).

With any luck, after spending around a $1,000, I will be able to take my wife up skiing a few more times this year. She absolutely loves slalom skiing!

With what seems to be normal (B reak O ut A nother T housand) type B.O.A.T luck, I will be looking at another $4,000 for the remanufactured drive I found.
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Then, after slowing down to idle (without going to neutral) then trying to accelerate again, lost forward gear again. I put the Trim full up and I could see that the prop was actually spinning, just very slowly, I assume because the cone clutch was slipping a lot.
It will certainly be nice if replacing the cone clutch will fix it.
I found one on eBay for $377 + about $7 shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OMC-0915130-...-/182126945528
#37 in the pic below.

Keep your fingers crossed that everything else in there is ok, I looked for a gearset and all I found was NLA...........Sometimes opening up a drive that old is opening up a can of worms!!
Interim_Cone_zps5fn1ofjy.jpg


Good luck!

Rick
 

HT32BSX115

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
10,083
Let me also add that if I had a boat like yours (that is in nearly "new" condition, considering what a new one just like it would cost, and I wanted to have a a boat that was trouble free for years to come, I would probably consider something like the following as a possibility since a couple of "fixes" on what you have + changing it out in a few years for another used "package", you might be very close to this:
 
Top