1991 5.0 Ford OMC with weak spark

Jca351

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Aug 17, 2016
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So this has been a long and frustrating summer. In march I purchased a 1991 Chris Craft Concept 187 with a 5.0 Ford OMC cobra. The boat had not been winterized properly and the block had cracked. I bought a remanufactured long block and replaced the motor and rebuilt the carb. The motor started and ran great. During the first lake test the boat would die when I tried to put it in gear. I had to disconnect the micro switches and then it would shift into gear fine.

After being on the water for about 15 minutes of running perfectly, the boat developed a terrible miss. It was not dependent on rpm and would hiss and sputter but did not die. It started very suddenly and never got any better. Well I started to fix the miss by draining the gas and replacing it with fresh 100% gas( old gas was not bad, it ran through my lawn mower fine). I then replaced the coil after I noticed it would get very hot with the ignition on but the motor not running. Neither of these changes affected the miss.

So after my initial ideas failed I checked for an intake leak with break fluid(there is not one), replaced the spark plug wires, replaced the rotor cap and button and replaced the ignition module. I also pulled off the valve covers to make sure no rocker arms had gotten lose and check the valve movement(it appeared normal). During this I discovered that I appear to have a weak spark. I did the primary voltage test in the SELOC manual and my voltage at the coil is wrong.

When I attach the negative lead to the negative battery post and the positive lead to the positive post I only get eight volts instead of 12-13 volts( with the battery at 12.3 volts). The manual says if it is less than the recommended voltage to do a voltage drop test. Well my voltage drop test results were normal. When I check the negative side of the coil I get less than two volts, which is why I tried replacing the coil and ignition module. I have also tried disconnecting the ESA with no change.

I've tried pulling plug wires to try to see if its just a certain cylinder that is missing but it seems like its the whole motor not just a single cylinder. The motor starts right up every time I just can't figure out whats causing my ignition issues. Any ideas you guys have would be greatly appreciated, I am lost at this point.
 

vasy

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Dec 14, 2014
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193
When I attach the negative lead to the negative battery post and the positive lead to the positive post I only get eight volts instead of 12-13 volts( with the battery at 12.3 volts). The manual says if it is less than the recommended voltage to do a voltage drop test.

Did you check your alternator? I had similar but not as pronounced issue on my 5.0 and after replacing alternator it runs much better.
Try starting your boat and get it to idle and disconnect the battery all together and see if it still runs (it should continue to run)
If it dies, get a new alternator, they are under $80 on Amazon.
 

Redrig

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Oct 13, 2009
Messages
860
Your coil might have a ballast resistor , hence the lower voltage at the coil .
 

SpitAndDirt

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Sep 23, 2008
Messages
103
According to my Factory OMC manual, the "sensor air gap" (inside the distributor) for the trigger wheel teeth to sensor is .008 of an inch. Is there any rust particles or corrosion stuck to the sensor? Have you removed the entire pick up sensor and checked your centrifugal weights for freedom of movement? If any corrosion was in there, it might affect timing advance if the weights can't move. Is there a possibility that you have a cracked trigger wheel?

You said the block was cracked, is there a possibility that either of the heads are cracked allowing lake water into the combustion chambers? What about performing a compression check to make sure every cylinder is pulling it's own weight.

I know that when I was troubleshooting my no start issue on mine, I found that a bunch of ground wires all connect to the back right side of the block where the battery negative cable connects to. If any corrosion has formed in that area, it may not be allowing full voltage to reach the coil.

Last, when was the last time you checked or changed your spark plug wires?
 

Jca351

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Aug 17, 2016
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The coil is internally resisted. I will check the alternator this weekend. I'll report what I figure out. Thanks
 

Jca351

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Aug 17, 2016
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I checked the alternator and its fine. Also jumpered the battery to the coil with no change so it's not lack of power to the coil. I also checked the compression and it's between 125 and 135 on all cylinders. Not sure what it could be. It just runs like it has a huge cam or something.
 

Jca351

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Aug 17, 2016
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Still no luck. If it was the ESA. Would unplugging it smooth it out or does running a coil from the battery to the coil accomplish the same thing. If any one has any ideas I've run out of my own. Thanks.
 

southkogs

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Jul 7, 2010
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As a "just so we looked" ... how's your stern drive gear lube lookin'? Any reason to think the drive may be gunked up or seizing ... causing the engine to work too hard? On my older Stringer, I'd just remove the drive to check that out. Dunno' how hard that is with a Cobra.
 

Jca351

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Aug 17, 2016
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Well I was wrong. The issue was not a war spark. The cam ate the lifters in the 15 minutes it ran and the valves were not fully opening. Got a replacement motor in and it runs fine. Only issue I'm having is i can't leave the sea plugged in or it dies when shifting into gear. Any ideas?
 
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