My Cobalt 2015 220 sank with 25 hours on it.. HELP

[cobalter]

My Cobalt 220 Cobalt sank after about 10 times out on it in rough weather in Lake Tahoe.

My insurance is paying for all repairs. Unfortunately, it was not totaled out. There is not any significant hull damage.

I am concerned as I know resale will be very challenging even when fixed right. Can this boat be made close to new again with the right people doing the job? My other option is trying to sell it damaged, taking the insurance check, and accepting a partial loss.

Thoughts?

 

[cobalter]

It has a VOLVO engine 300 hp.

 

[alldodge]

Did it sink in fresh or salt water?

If fresh you have a good chance of being ok, but if salt you will be dealing with electrical problems forever unless the harnesses and all wiring were replaced

 

[spoilsofwar]

Lake Tahoe is fresh water.

 

[alldodge]

Lake Tahoe is fresh water.

Thanks, blew right past that.

 

[tpenfield]

Sounds like a crap-shoot as to how the repairs will go. A lot depends on the skills of the folks doing the repairs.

In terms of 'sunk' I take it that the boat went down in the water but not to the bottom of the lake?

 

[Fishhead-1]

Tahoe is deep glad it's not on the bottom, how or why did it take on water?

 

[cobalter]

It sunk to the bottom for 3 days in rough weather tied to its buoy. It was too rough to pull up right away. Apparently the bilge was overwhelmed or batteries died and I was not notified by the caretaker.

 

[tpenfield]

It sunk to the bottom for 3 days in rough weather tied to its buoy. It was too rough to pull up right away. Apparently the bilge was overwhelmed or batteries died and I was not notified by the caretaker.

That is interesting, because NMMA standards, which I believe Cobalt builds to those standards, specifies positive flotation for boats up to 26 feet. USCG regs are only to 20 feet, but NMMA standards are higher.

 

[vans]

The answer to your question may be in your hands.
I've never went through your situation but if it were my boat I would be all over the restore
I'd start with a list and note any concerns and be anal about quality of repairs.
Google concerns, there may be some good info out there

Good Luck

 

[jerryjerry05]

Good thing is: it's FRESH water.
​The wiring will dry out.
The motor needs a bit of work.
​But the being under with the water in it is better than letting it set for days without doing anything.
What's been done so far?

Don't wait too long.

 

[SeaDooSam]

Wow that really stinks. Make sure you take it to a well known, good mechanic.

That is interesting, because NMMA standards, which I believe Cobalt builds to those standards, specifies positive flotation for boats up to 26 feet. USCG regs are only to 20 feet, but NMMA standards are higher.

Just curious When were these put in place?

 

[tpenfield]

The regs and standards have been in place for a while. Up to 20 feet for flotation dates back into the 1970's :noidea:

I have not found too much on the NMMA or ABYC extension of the standards to 26 feet, except there is some info on BoatUS publications and the folks at Formula Boats also indicated the same to me when I asked them about my 24 footer. It seems that those standards were more in the year 2000 and up.

 

[cobalter]

It had emergency work done after it was brought up while the insurance has been decided. It apparently was drained and filled with diesel oil to protect engine from corrosion.

 

[alldodge]

Sure hope your going to get a new motor from Merc and not a long block, this way all the harnesses and connectors are clean

 

[89retta]

Insurance should have wrote the boat off. I would be worried about all the electrical , one little short down the road and its up in flames. I know in the auto industry if a car is even partially submerged they write it off. As they cant guarantee that there would be no problems with all the electrical after being soaked.

 

[muc]

Push to have the boat totaled.
The insurance company won't want to.
Your best bet is to get the Cobalt dealer to think you want to buy a new Cobalt. They will then help you by estimating replacement of ALL electrical --- including ALL wires, switches, gauges, lights, fuse panel and every electrical component on the engine. Disassembly of ALL upholstered seats and coaming pads, replacement of foam and cleaning of vinyl.Replacement of control and steering cables. That should do it, but if it doesn't you can have them add in vacuum bagging the hull to dry it out completely.
You need to get the point across to your insurance company that you demand the boat be restored to preloss condition.
Even in fresh water, 3 days is too long. Doing all of the above will still only get you a boat that will have twice as many problems as it would have if it didn't sink.

 

[tlewis1]

I agree with Muc, there is no way I would accept that boat back. The shop may have it up and running but whos to say whats going to happen in a year from now, you will always have issues that could or could not be related to the sinking that will drive you and your shop crazy.

 

[tpenfield]

I would assume that the insurance company is going the repair route because the cost estimate to repair/recondition the boat is less than the current value of the boat ???

I am wondering how close those two numbers are and if the estimate is realistic and/or based on multiple estimates?

I am also wondering what the process will be if (when) the actual cost to fix the boat goes up beyond the estimate . . . If the insurance company decides to go the 'fix-it' route, are they obligated to see it through, even if it exceeds the value/cost of the boat?

Also is the insurance policy an 'agreed value' or a 'current value' type of policy?

These would be the questions I'd be asking if I were in the OP's situation.

 

[JustJason]

I'll add another vote for the boat to be totaled. Realistically speaking the boat needs all new electrical, both engine and hull. It needs a new EFI system on the engine. All new upholstery. Fuel tank pumped out. It will need a new gimbal bearing, new bellows, new control cables, new steering and new controls. It's going to take an easy 60+ labor hours. (wouldn't doubt if it pushes close to 100) It will likely need a new trim unit. The only things that can be "salvaged" here are the sterndrive, the engine block, the boat hull, and some of the trimmings. If the rest isn't done the boat is always going to have problems.